Do you use Teflon tape for threaded PVC?

[Da Maui life]

In the interim between the original posts in this thread, and now, I spent some time on the phone (again) with Spears, Lasco, and Rectorseal. The comment you quoted was based on informaton found on the internet after a brief search. We all know how reliable that is not...so no arguments on that. Yes we do.

Then you have to sit and figure out the differences between "non-hardening" (called for by the fitting manufacturers), soft-setting, and non-setting sealants, and which translates to which. Non-hadeneing is a state where the fitting can be turned, and then retightened and the seal will remain intact. Any product setting, or soft-setting (both dry) is not going to display this characteristic.The differences between "non-hardening" soft-setting, non-setting sealants are pretty easy to figure out which translates to which. Yes they all dry over time, infact I've seen both soft-setting and unsetting sealants rock hard on old applications.


I have used the spears flavor for a long time. (Blue 75.) It is specifically formulated for use with thermoplastic fittings. As well as some others.



http://www.spearsmfg.com/prod_brochures/BLU-2-0200_2008_web.pdf

As far as 'potable water' goes, I am currently running T plus 2 on a rather well populated reef tank, and anxiously awaiting the mass tank wipe out because it is not listed for 'potable water.' Which probably only means it was not submitted for testing...Guess we will find out in a year or two...And you may never have any issues with T plus 2, that's not the point i was conveying. My comment was simply pointing out what is listed/tested for potable water use,lead & silicon free.Sound advice. One can certainly use the brand of his/her choice. No need for the snarky comment:lol2:

"RectorSeal® T Plus 2® pipe thread sealant is a non-setting, multi-purpose compound which contains PTFE, plus synthetic fibers to create a stronger seal. Recommended for use on threaded galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, fiberglass reinforced, PVC, CPVC, and ABS pipe. T Plus 2 may be pressurized immediately following application."

What can be taken away is that sealant manufacturers and fitting manufacturers are never quite going to agree, which is more reliable? Fitting manufacturers know the characteristics of their fittings. Sealant manufacturers try to cover as many bases as possible, using as few products as they can, but I hope this does not morph into a debate on 'which sealant to use' rather than 'to tape or not to tape.' which, considering the recommendations of the fitting manufacturers, is just a little bit silly to begin with.

Since it was the 'pro' plumbers that got this wrong in the first place, an individual not being a plumber is a plus... (sleep easy Ca1ore ) I have nearly three decades in a specific trade and more than half of that time as a licensed Contractor in two states, often dealing with their work, I know all I need to know about Plumbers.

 

[uncleof6]

And you may never have any issues with T plus 2, that’s not the point i was conveying. My comment was simply pointing out what is listed/tested for potable water use,lead & silicon free.Sound advice. One can certainly use the brand of his/her choice. No need for the snarky comment:lol2:

And pvc is not listed for potable water in residential either, even though stamped NSF, it has BPA and Thalates in it and rumors of lead and other things, this is not why it is not approved for residential however. NO one has a problem using it. Copper can be used in potable water systems. Copper will wipe out a tank in short order. That should pretty much clear up what the 'potable water' end of all of this is, in relation to aquariums...what would carry a bit more weight would be FDA and USDA approvals...(Tplus2 is NSF/ANSI certified 61-G & 372 identically to the Rectorseal 5...)

 

[Da Maui life]

And pvc is not listed for potable water in residential either, even though stamped NSF, it has BPA and Thalates in it and rumors of lead and other things, this is not why it is not approved for residential however. NO one has a problem using it. Copper can be used in potable water systems. Copper will wipe out a tank in short order. That should pretty much clear up what the 'potable water' end of all of this is, in relation to aquariums...what would carry a bit more weight would be FDA and USDA approvals...(Tplus2 is NSF/ANSI certified 61-G & 372 identically to the Rectorseal 5...)

I can see the point you're trying to make with PVC however copper has no relation or relevance to the aquira plumbing conversation. I'm sure municipality codes vary from state-state, and research is at hand, but it's my understanding that PVC is used for cold water only, and CPVC is used for both hot and cold water, and copper being the gold standard in home construction. PVC, CPVC both are approved for use with drinking water. Safety issues are mainly considered a concern in PVC pipe that was manufactured before 1977 The issues with PVC in home use is leaks, it will degrade when exposed to UV light such as sunlight and also high temperature. Its pressure rating is to be de-rated at high temperatures. Because of this, PVC is not approved for use in houses for potable water.

 

[uncleof6]

I can see the point you're trying to make with PVC however copper has no relation or relevance to the aquira plumbing conversation. I’m sure municipality codes vary from state-state, and research is at hand, but it’s my understanding that PVC is used for cold water only, and CPVC is used for both hot and cold water, and copper being the gold standard in home construction. PVC, CPVC both are approved for use with drinking water. Safety issues are mainly considered a concern in PVC pipe that was manufactured before 1977 The issues with PVC in home use is leaks, it will degrade when exposed to UV light such as sunlight and also high temperature. Its pressure rating is to be de-rated at high temperatures. Because of this, PVC is not approved for use in houses for potable water.

Exactly, if you read my post carefully, you will notice that I stated that the safety concerns were not the reason pvc is not approved for residential use, I just did not bother to iterate the reasons out: it is very easy to copy and paste them if one really needs to do so...I simply posted the current most popular myths. However Copper is used for potable water, and perhaps it has no relevance to aquaria, however it is relevant to what 'potable water certs' really accomplish, (foster myths) and that potable water certs have nothing to do with what is and what is not safe or useable with aquaria. In fact, salt water of the variety we are recreating is not potable water in the first place, and has more stuff in it than you can think of off the top of your head...

 

[wolfblue]

For threads, I've used RectorSeal and it works good. But I like Whitlam Blue Magic better. You will too...

 

[Lavoisier]

For threads, I've used RectorSeal and it works good. But I like Whitlam Blue Magic better. You will too...

How long have you been using this product?

 

[wolfblue]

I was fighting the tef tape war until 4 years ago when somebody pointed me to Blue Magic. I knew tape is not called for on plastic but what are you going to do with leaks if you have sensitive animals. Blue Magic is good for food service and works with the first try every time. I'm in charge of 12 aquariums, smallest is 1k gallons. Next is 8k, the average size is 40k gallons. I have endangered/threatened animals and two full time vets so I cant do anything fishy. (fishy):wave:

 

[mrkalel]

I use anything BUT tape with PVC. It often fails to help with sealing on the junk threads provided with PVC these days. I use Rectorseal 5 and THAT works nicely and reliably.

http://www.rectorseal.com/product-data/rectorseal-no-5/dsno5.htm

It should be noted that tape and teflon paste are not sealents, whereas RectorSeal is a sealant.

When I assembled my tank with tape I had about 4 aggravating drips with tape. I had to laboriously remove lots of piping. I reassembled it exactly the same way with Rectorseal and had zero leaks.

Just used this baby for a Saltwater mixing station project that has a significant amount of threaded PVC fittings...and I LOVE it vs teflon. Faster to apply and a quick wipe of the excess is all that's needed.

I also have unscrewed some fittings that were dry for days and no issues...wiped it clean..and reapplied more...perfect.

 

[Miz40B]

 

[Lavoisier]

Thank you, John. I've am using Rectorseal 2 but will to take a look at Blue Magic next time I purchase.

I was fighting the tef tape war until 4 years ago when somebody pointed me to Blue Magic. I knew tape is not called for on plastic but what are you going to do with leaks if you have sensitive animals. Blue Magic is good for food service and works with the first try every time. I'm in charge of 12 aquariums, smallest is 1k gallons. Next is 8k, the average size is 40k gallons. I have endangered/threatened animals and two full time vets so I cant do anything fishy. (fishy):wave: