Does Drywall harm my tank?

derick2724

In Memoriam
Hi guys I currently have a 60 gallons in wall tank, the person that design my in wall tank didn't really cover the cut part of the drywall to stick in the tank so therefore water evaporation cause damp and dropped back down onto the surface of the water. But till now I don't know if it's the cause of the drywall harm my tank or due to the tank is not done cycling yet, I find a white film on top of the water surface don't know if that is the drywall or some other substance cause that white film. Most of my coral are dead within 8 hours of putting it in the tank, so please help me find the real reason that causes this.

Thanks
 
I think the biggest threat from drywall would be if it was of the anti-fungal variety, like greenboard. I would just skim and maybe do some water changes.

That said, if I read your post right you said the tank was not done cycling? That is more likely the cause of your coral deaths.
 
My tank been cycling for 2 months, I had a brown algea bloom which I believe normal part of the cycle, then after that I got a few clean up crew, I added turbo snail and regular hermit crab, the turbo snail never bother moving anywhere just crawled up inside its shell and die within the next day, but the regular hermit was doing fine. So what must I do to make sure everything survive this time?

Last week I got ****ed off cause everything died off, so I decided to start over, took the live rocks and sand out rinse of nicely and power spray the LR with RO water and put brand NSW. Now I checked back I still see the freakin white film on top, could somebody explain to me what's that white film is?
 
due to space limited, i made my own in tank surface overflow box with a pvc tube stickin in side suckin the water out, but the return hose is next to it so most of the dirty water doesn't get suck down and pushes to the left side of the tank.
 
well last week you officially killed the live rock and sand, so your cycle will take at least 1 months again.

Get some test kit to know when the cycle is over first and wait at least 2-3 months for coral.

Can you talk about the whole system? any copper/brass plumbing part?
 
there was a brass ball valve that I put in there, could that be a reason? but now I took it out and put in plastic ball valve, so you guys don't think it could have been the drywall? btw how do you know when the cycle is done?
 
Hydrated Calcium Sulfate is the main ingredient, the calcium part sounds good LOL
I dunno about the sulfate part though...........
C
 
Even if the drywall cannot harm the tank, the tank CAN harm the drywall.
I would recommend that you seal any open edges of drywall. How exactly is the open edge exposed? Any chance you could get a picture?

Drywall is usually water resistant either because of the paint on top of the paper, or in the case of moisture resistant drywall, a fiberglass layer. The exposed gypsum itself will soak in moisture through the humidity and easily rot the panel if its next to humidity and occasional splashing.

When working with moisture resistant drywall (which is recommended next to a tank or bathroom or kitchen), it's a good idea to seal the exposed cut faces with some kind of sealent even before doing the mud compound.

if the drywall is already in place its probably not possible to seal the exposed cut now. But I'd go ahead and try to slip some jbead over it, and then seal along the edge of the jbead with some kind of polyeurethane.

jbead.gif

jbead, available at any hardware store in vinyl
 
well, if drywall doesn't harm the tank then what causes the death of all my corals?...and also what is the white film on the surface of the water?
 
sorry I can't personally answer that question as I just dont know.

but if it worries you, just seal around the drywall. it will protect the drywall and ease your mind about the other problem.

like others have said, do the best you can to test your water and do water changes.


"due to space limited, i made my own in tank surface overflow box with a pvc tube stickin in side suckin the water out, but the return hose is next to it so most of the dirty water doesn't get suck down and pushes to the left side of the tank."

Can you tweak the placement of your return so that you're getting more of the film going down the overflow? That's the first thing i'd try. maybe try moving some powerheads around too if you have em.
 
my overflow kinda being over drown by the water, I use the leemar fish holder and drill bunch of holes on top but there are no place for me to place so i use a suck cup to hang it onto the glass but the trim is in the way so therefore I can't hang it up higher for the water to flow over so that's the reason why it's being over drown.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11989099#post11989099 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by derick2724
lol, come again?? :confused:

Sorry, I thought you wanted to know what drywall was made from. I doubt anyone on here is qualified or has done "research" into weather its safe for aquarium use or not :lol:
 
when you wash your sand/rock in non saltwater, you kill all the bacteria and microfauna, so you restart a cycle.

To know when it's over, you test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, they all have to be 0. Nitrate can be 0-20 but you need to get them down.

When the polyfilter pad stop turning blue, add a snail to test if it stay alive (once the cycle is over)
The brass fitting could have leeched some copper and killed all the inverts, you will need to buy some polyfilter pad and cupprisorb to remove the copper in the system.

Gypsum is safe as far as I know
 
what are polyfilter pads? (Is it those pads that has carbon in it?) if it is then I already have activate carbon inside my sump, and where do I get it? btw where can i purchase cupprisorb on the web?
 

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