Drain Pipe adn Sump Noise
- Thread starter Rudolph
- Start date
BassandReef
Member
Ha, ha. I'm not the one with the pretty Avatar. :wildone:
Here is a site with Durso build instructions. You definetly need a T at the top.
http://www.saltcorner.com/Articles/Showarticle.php?articleID=142
Here is a site with Durso build instructions. You definetly need a T at the top.
http://www.saltcorner.com/Articles/Showarticle.php?articleID=142
Rudolph
New member
Yes, I actually brought home a t type durso (printed it out) and somehow picked up 2" versus 1.5" and was hoping to give it a shot. I was told it would not make a difference, but for $5 it is worth a try. I will exchange tomorrow and see what happens.
Next stop, will ball and t to reduce the flow.....was hoping not to have to do that....
Next stop, will ball and t to reduce the flow.....was hoping not to have to do that....
Rudolph
New member
Last edited:
I don't know how you will replace a 1.5" with a 2", but if you can do it without having to re-drill your tank, there is one heck of a lot of difference between the flow for a 1.5" and a 2" pipe. I had the calculations when I designed my system, if I can find them, I will put them out, but it is a multiple of the flow increase not a fractional one.
Rudolph
New member
Keith: I probably threw you off there. I accidently picked up the 2" pieces. I am going to take them back this AM and exchange for 1.5". I actually went to slip it over the pipe and it just kept on going. LOL
So my drainpipe is 1.5", return pipe 1.0, hose from pump to return pipe .75 and the T and ball valve line coming off the return line is .5. I guess I just needed something in 2" size to add to my varied collection of sizes...............anyway, back to Lowe's for the umpteenth time.
So my drainpipe is 1.5", return pipe 1.0, hose from pump to return pipe .75 and the T and ball valve line coming off the return line is .5. I guess I just needed something in 2" size to add to my varied collection of sizes...............anyway, back to Lowe's for the umpteenth time.
haha...yep you definitely have some variation going on. A 1.5" drain pipe should not be having any trouble with flushing in most situations so I suspect that when you get the actual durso design in place, your issues will go away. I generally have the top of the horizontal part of the tee where I want the top of the water to be in my overflow. I would take a picture, but it wouldn't end well for my camera.
Rendos
New member
Just to clarify. The durso standpipe is made from 1.5" pipe. The actual holes drilled inthe tank are 1" for both the drain and the return. It is a standard Perfecto tank. So increasing the durso size isn't going to make a difference in how much water can be drained or how much noise it will make.
The plot thickens, and I had to go back to find out who the op was.
So, conversely, there is also a massive difference between the 1.5" and 1". If the smallest opening in the pipe is only 1", the flow will likely have to drastically cut back unless you go for the full siphon options. Either way, when a pipe is flushing, the ball valve will fix it.
Rudolph
New member
Richard: I think he isn't saying to increase the size of the durso, but to change out the two elbows (standard issue set up) for a durso design. I think you and I discussed that and your thought is it probably will not make a difference.
I think my only choices are to try a difference design (durso) and/or reduce the flow. However, I am not sure how the T fitting will change the flow and once again, my old tank had the same pump, so I don't like dialing it down. However, I am running out of options.
Jay, yes, I took the kink out of the flexible drain and I think it did help, but it is still flushing and with the addtional holes, noisy. We had to shut our bedroom door last night as it was still too loud.
In reading, this apparently is a very common problem. I hope a solution is at hand that others can use! Stay tuned....
Rudolph
New member
Okay, solution found. I used a pvc T, connector, and a cap. It was a modified durso set-up.
As you can see in the pic, I went with a modified T. as I like the way it sloped. I simply used a small piece of a 1.5" pipe for the connection. I glued it to the T (to keep it from turning). I picked up a cap that was easier to grip with some grip ridges. I drilled four holes at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock position with cap was on so the holes would go through the connector as well.
Once I had the holes drilled, I used the cap as a dial to control the amount of air.
I almost had to dial the hole to the size of pin, but I had immediately reduced the noise by 95% within two seconds. I have adjusted it a couple to times and it got a little off this AM. I adjusted it again, and the noise is 99% eliminated. Any residual (1%) is less than the sump dispersion plate that allocates the water over the bio balls (relax, this is my freshwater tank...LOL), so I am very happy.
So, thanks to everyone for your input! I have never had this issue, but in reading a large amount of information on the internet on on RC, it is a very common problem. My understanding is that everyone's situation is different, and not one thing works from tank to tank because of the many variables. So all the input was valid and added to my problem solution (or elimination of alternatives). Thanks again.
As you can see in the pic, I went with a modified T. as I like the way it sloped. I simply used a small piece of a 1.5" pipe for the connection. I glued it to the T (to keep it from turning). I picked up a cap that was easier to grip with some grip ridges. I drilled four holes at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock position with cap was on so the holes would go through the connector as well.
Once I had the holes drilled, I used the cap as a dial to control the amount of air.
I almost had to dial the hole to the size of pin, but I had immediately reduced the noise by 95% within two seconds. I have adjusted it a couple to times and it got a little off this AM. I adjusted it again, and the noise is 99% eliminated. Any residual (1%) is less than the sump dispersion plate that allocates the water over the bio balls (relax, this is my freshwater tank...LOL), so I am very happy.
So, thanks to everyone for your input! I have never had this issue, but in reading a large amount of information on the internet on on RC, it is a very common problem. My understanding is that everyone's situation is different, and not one thing works from tank to tank because of the many variables. So all the input was valid and added to my problem solution (or elimination of alternatives). Thanks again.
Rudolph
New member
I also made my own flexible return line since I was in plumber mode. I tried to cut a standard issue (had ribs all around it) one down and reconnect the end piece without success (you can see it dripping in the picture).
For about $5, I replaced it with a neat clear flexible pvc tube and some inexpensive pvc pieces.
For about $5, I replaced it with a neat clear flexible pvc tube and some inexpensive pvc pieces.
