Draining a 175 due to ich

[rocknpet]

Hello all,

Been a longtime reader but first time post. I have a 175-gallon custom in wall tank with a 90-gal sump that has been up and running since 1997. Several years ago I had to totally tear down the tank and replace approx 300 lbs of live rock due to a faulty RO membrane that leeched copper back into my system killing everything except two damsels. It has since been rebuilt (2007), decontaminated the tank and purchased new Live rock and sand and has been running flawlessly since. I added a 55-gal frag tank and a separate 30-gal sump specifically for cheato. Many SPS and LPS plus an abundance of Fairy and flasher wrasses (2) Lineatus, (2) Rhomboids (1) large male Flame and (4) female flames, solar wrasse, leopard wrasse, red banded fairy wrasse & a male and female McCoskers , a couple of tangs, (1) yellow and (1) Purple, (2) golden sleeper gobies and (1) small copperband.

I always QT every fish I place in the tank for 6 weeks but I recently purchased the (2) Lineatus wrasses and they did not take too well to my normal 2-week Cupramine treatment then the four additional weeks of observation. I had to cut the cupramine dose to less than .035 and after 10-days made the decision to put them into the display because they were not doing well enough to complete the last of the QT. Last week I noticed a few white dots on my Purple tang and figured it may have been some sand residue but I kept an eye on him. well, as you would guess they increased and soon the yellow had spots as well as some of the wrasses. I knew right away I was going to have to catch them all and setup a large hospital tank and keep the DT fallow for 8 - 10 weeks. I just had delivered a 150-gallon Stock tank (similar to the large commercial Rubbermaid brute containers) its FDA approved for water and food storage so I know that wont be an issue. What I am struggling with is exactly how to approach trying to QT 20-something fish in this large tub without having enough Biological filtration.

I have always kept 3 sponge filters in my sump to seed for my 20 gallon QT so they were always ready when I introduced a new fish. When I made the decision last week that all fish were coming out, I purchased 2 very large sponge filters that are each rated for up to 125 gallons but they have only been seeding for 6-days.

My game plan as of right now is to fill the QT tub with 100-gallons of salt water, using some from the display tank and the rest newly mixed so my salinity is consistent with my display. Install the three small sponge filters for now while the larger ones seed for a few more weeks. Over the course of the next few days drop the salinity (Hypo) down to 1.009 and run a double amount of seachem Purigen to help with the Nitrate, Nitrite and ammonia levels (still doing water changes of course) and then adding the larger sponge filters in a few weeks. After 6 weeks of Hypo, and hopefully building up enough bio filtration slowly bring the salinity back up to 1.026 and treat for two weeks with Cupramine.

I have been Saltwater fish and reefkeeping for a long while now but never stumbled into anything of this magnitude. So I am asking everyone for opinions and or suggestions on my anticipated course of action. I have been feeding real heavy for the last week trying to keep their immune systems up, soaking all foods and Nori in Garlic but last night I lost one of my Lineatus wrasses and I desperately need to get these fish out of the display tomorrow and into QT. any help or suggestions you can give me will be greatly appreciated.....:headwally:

 

[b0bab0ey]

You could add a couple HOB power filters for added filtration and water circulation. Or how about a canister filter? Or do you have an old wet dry with bio balls? Sucks for corals/inverts but still works great for fish. Of course, you'd need to seed the bio balls beforehand.

If you go with a HOB power filter check out an AquaClear (70 or 110 is probably the size you'll be wanting). AquaClear power filters have these foam inserts that give you added biological filtration.

Whichever way you go with this, I foresee lots of WCs in your future with that bioload to keep the ammonia at bay. Hopefully you can see thru these containers so you can siphon excess food/poop off the bottom.

 

[rocknpet]

Thanks for the reply, I do plan on using two HOB filters, I have an Emperor 400 and a 280. both of these I was going to use for mechanical plus there are two Korilia 4's in for circulation. I am questioning whether my approach to this is the correct way to go about it with such a large bioload. I am using a spare media reactor to use the Purigen in, at least this will help with the buildup of Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate along with water changes until my 2 large sponge filters are ready in a few more weeks but for now, I will only have three small sponge filters going.

I made 60-gallons if new saltwater yesterday in the tub and am planning on doing a 40-gallon water change on the display and using those 40-gallons I remove to add into the tub to give me an even 100 gallons in the QT for now. Once I have that 100-gallon waterline established, I purchased a float switch that I am going to install a couple of inches above that line which will be hooked up to a 5-gallon bucket of fresh RO for top off but also to slowly add fresh water over the course of a few days by keeping the line pinch to get my salinity down to 1.009. I do realize there are going to be many water changes and constant water testing involved, just picked up two more seachem ammonia alert badges and have two new Elos kits for Nitrite and Nitrate and two new copper kits for when that time comes for the Curamine ( a Seachem and a Salifert ) am I missing anything or should I be looking at doing something different in one or more areas

 

[b0bab0ey]

Thanks for the reply, I do plan on using two HOB filters, I have an Emperor 400 and a 280. both of these I was going to use for mechanical plus there are two Korilia 4's in for circulation. I am questioning whether my approach to this is the correct way to go about it with such a large bioload. I am using a spare media reactor to use the Purigen in, at least this will help with the buildup of Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate along with water changes until my 2 large sponge filters are ready in a few more weeks but for now, I will only have three small sponge filters going.

I made 60-gallons if new saltwater yesterday in the tub and am planning on doing a 40-gallon water change on the display and using those 40-gallons I remove to add into the tub to give me an even 100 gallons in the QT for now. Once I have that 100-gallon waterline established, I purchased a float switch that I am going to install a couple of inches above that line which will be hooked up to a 5-gallon bucket of fresh RO for top off but also to slowly add fresh water over the course of a few days by keeping the line pinch to get my salinity down to 1.009. I do realize there are going to be many water changes and constant water testing involved, just picked up two more seachem ammonia alert badges and have two new Elos kits for Nitrite and Nitrate and two new copper kits for when that time comes for the Curamine ( a Seachem and a Salifert ) am I missing anything or should I be looking at doing something different in one or more areas

I think you've got all the bases covered. Just do lots of WCs until those sponge filters are ready. Basically, if you see anything settled on the bottom that will cause ammonia suck it out. Always have fresh s/w ready to go at all times in case you have to do an emergency WC. The only other thing you really need to worry about is oxygen. I would point one of those Korilias towards the surface to draw in oxygen or if you've going to cover the QT, add an airstone or two. Good luck!

 

[geaux xman]

I wouldnt even worry about nitrite and nitrate in a QT tank.

 

[rocknpet]

Thanks guys,

The sponge filters are air driven so in addition to the power heads there will always be surface agitation and with all the wrasses I had to build a 6 foot screen cover using the 1/4" clear netting. I guess I'm ready to start the transfer, thanks for all your help

 

[rocknpet]

Just an update:

All Tanks were temporarily drained in order to be able to catch each and every fish without having to tear down the rock work that is epoxied together. One fish was lost, the sleeper goby and one fish was not able to be caught which was the leopard wrasse as he must have buried himself because I searched high and low for him. Since I had coral exposed to the air for almost an hour, I couldn't take the chance of losing any of my Acropora so I pumped all the water back into the display and frag tanks and transferred all the fish to the 150 gallon tub. I know the display is to remain fallow for 8 - 10 weeks and I am somehow going to need to catch the leopard in order to proceed. Anyone have a suggestion on catching this difficult fish?

Also, I am going to replace the sleeper goby today this way he is in tub at the start of Hypo. I am more concerned at the moment though to catch the leopard so I am looking for some good ideas on that predicament first and foremost

Thanks in advance

 

[Wrench]

Read through my current thread. I'm in a similar situation. I have removed all of my fish, set up a seperate QT system (120g) and leaving the tank fallow for 12 weeks. So far things are ok. A couple of fish deaths but I cannot attribute them to the QT system.

I have zero biological filtration. The tank is 8' long, divided into 4 sections. Each section has an air stone and a powerhead at the bottom which stops detritus from building up. The tank is plumbed into a small sump with an oversized pump which creates a LOT of turbulence and aeration. I have never had any detectable ammonia in 3+ weeks. I have 5 tangs, a couple medium sized angels and half a dozen wrasses.