Drill a collection skimmer cup.

[tenderuc]

Was wanting to drill a collection skimmer cup on my Euro- reef 135 skimmer. Don't want to crack the cup. Want to do this so I can run a hose barb from the cup to a one gallon jug to keep the skimmer from running over in the sump. Is there a special drill bit for acrylic drill it fast or slow. Thanks Tom

 

[rbnice1]

I ussually just use a regular bit..

Just use high speed and very low pressure. Push to hard and it will crack.

 

[Freed]

I used a hole saw when I drilled my cup so I could plumb it to my basement main drain line. Don't push very hard.

 

[bradbmbj]

If you use a drill bit, start with a 1/8 and then move up to the size you need with other bits at 1/16 intervals, if you try a large bit first, there is a strong possibility of cracking the acrylic when the bit begins to break through.

 

[jasoncw]

Definitely start a small pilot hole. And if the desired hole is big enough, then take 1 or 2 more steps to get there. But don't waste your time stepping up only 1/16" at a time.

 

[bradbmbj]

better safe than sorry

 

[bradbmbj]

If you are not used to working with acrylic, I would take the steps slow as it happens quick when that bit pulls through the last piece of material. Here is the cost of a new cup compared to a few extra minutes of work
http://commerce03.i2net.com/able55new/stores/111/RS-Series-6-Skimmer-Cup-P33C115.aspx

 

[96p993]

It really helps the strength of the acrylic if you can find something curved but solid to use as backing for the acrylic when drilling

 

[ckoral]

lock it down and use a drill press. Use a hole saw without a center mandrill bit. come down on it with even but very light pressure. If you do this, you will have no doubt you are doing it right. -thats how I did mine anyway. Then I tapped my and threaded a john guest speed fit to thread adapter.

 

[tenderuc]

Better safe than sorry. Well I am sorry. I tried to go to fast and cracked the cup. I think I can save it but I should have went slower. My problem was my drill press was a little out of balance and it was shaking to much, acrylic is very brittle, now I know. I learned the hard way. I will be able to save it thou. Thanks for your help. Tom

 

[PAZE]

Sorry I mist this, cant help now but maybe in the future if you ever do this again drill a tiny pilot hole first the a few sizes bigger till you get the size you need, attacking it with the right size bit is asking for trouble, not saying it cant be done but starting of with a smaller bit first will get it done no problem.

Paul

 

[tenderuc]

Yes I did a pilot hole first but then jump to the bit I needed should have drilled a few more holes before I went that big. Now I know. No problem I got it fixed. Used some two part epoxy to fix the crack. Just a single crack not a shatter I got lucky. Thanks Tom

 

[jmkarcz]

Look up an acrylic twist bit, they have a different degree pitch that shaves the plastic and it will not grab as it goes thru. That is the primary reason acrylic will break, the second is being old and brittle.


http://www.acrylicbirdcages.com/plastic_working_tools.htm
"These drills incorporate a different fluke, 60 degree point and zero degree rake and are designed for use in drill presses. The ultimate for high speed drilling of plastics with extended usage. Reduced shank to 1/4" on sizes 5/16", 3/8", 7/16" and 1/2"."



If you have a grinder and an old bit and you know how to sharpen bits.. your half way there, you jest need to figure out what 60 degrees is...


simple google search for "sharpening drill bits...

http://www.x-eng.co.uk/images/drilling/sharp1.gif

 

[ckoral]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14773345#post14773345 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmkarcz
Look up an acrylic twist bit, they have a different degree pitch that shaves the plastic and it will not grab as it goes thru. That is the primary reason acrylic will break, the second is being old and brittle.


http://www.acrylicbirdcages.com/plastic_working_tools.htm

Cool! I need more tools!!!!!