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DSB in a bucket for nitrate control
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
luckybaker4
New member
Most of the posts that I read said 1 month for the bacteria to colonize and the results to start showing up.
This probably depends, however, on the amount of nitrates you have.
My nitrates we around 10-20 also on my 40 gallon tank. I just hooked it up a week ago, so we'll see when I start to see result, although I have been doing more-than-normal water changes, so it would be hard to tell if the bucket is helping at all.
This probably depends, however, on the amount of nitrates you have.
My nitrates we around 10-20 also on my 40 gallon tank. I just hooked it up a week ago, so we'll see when I start to see result, although I have been doing more-than-normal water changes, so it would be hard to tell if the bucket is helping at all.
Cody Ray
New member
Phosphate will bind to the sand, eventually the sand will no longer be able to bind phosphate and it will begin to build up. I would think that simply removing the top half would be adequate as it would leave a good protion of the denitrifying bacteria in tack while providing fresh substrate for nitrifying bacteria on more phosphate binding. A phosphate reactor would help prolong the usefulness of the sand.
Cody Ray
New member
It could, it is often a reason that people will add sand to begin with. It is why people use phosphate reactors in BB systems. I'm not sure about its effects on denitryfication. If your levels of phosphate were high enough to effect this process than you would already be in deep trouble 
This is why the bucket idea is so nice, it is very simple to just replace the bucket with a new one with new sand, all new substrate for phosphate to bind to.
This is why the bucket idea is so nice, it is very simple to just replace the bucket with a new one with new sand, all new substrate for phosphate to bind to.BeanAnimal
Premium Member
In any moderate system I would expect the bucket to last many years before needing any maintenance. As mentioned, the nice part is the ability to take the bucket off line in the event of problems.
CoralKing
Member
I'm thinking of setting up a DSB bucket, but have a question regarding bulkhead selection. I noticed someone mentioned using Uniseal bulkheads. I'm wondering if these are as effective as traditional threaded bulkheads?
Also, 3/4" seems to be the most popular diameter bulkhead for this application. Is this correct?
Thanks
Also, 3/4" seems to be the most popular diameter bulkhead for this application. Is this correct?
Thanks
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Traditional bulkheads do not work well on curved surfaces, that is wear uniseal excel.
I will respectfully disagree with Bean....
Buckets are thin and the plastic easily deforms (flattens) to form a tight seal with a bulkhead fitting. the amount it deforms is small... my bulkheads haven't leaked on mine.
Uniseals need a pretty round hole to seal in--I've never had to cut one out so don't know how dificult it might be and if there are issues with it sealing due to lack of roundness-- this being said I'm not saying you shouldn't use a uniseal-- my point is that a regular bulkhead works fine.
For size I used a 3/4" going in and a 1" coming out-- supplied by a maxijet 1200...
Buckets are thin and the plastic easily deforms (flattens) to form a tight seal with a bulkhead fitting. the amount it deforms is small... my bulkheads haven't leaked on mine.
Uniseals need a pretty round hole to seal in--I've never had to cut one out so don't know how dificult it might be and if there are issues with it sealing due to lack of roundness-- this being said I'm not saying you shouldn't use a uniseal-- my point is that a regular bulkhead works fine.
For size I used a 3/4" going in and a 1" coming out-- supplied by a maxijet 1200...
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Spuds, the uniseals are designed to fit curved surfaces... The pliable rubber expands to fill the hole when the pipe is pushed through it. They work on very small radius pipes as well as flat surfaces....thats is what they are for
Of course if you can get hte bucket to deform then a bulkhead would work... that certainly does not make what I said incorrect. Traditional bulkheads don't work well on curved surfaces.
Of course if you can get hte bucket to deform then a bulkhead would work... that certainly does not make what I said incorrect. Traditional bulkheads don't work well on curved surfaces.
fishykid9212
New member
This has nothing to do with this thread BUT
I just came across this thread, Have any of you ever tried the sugar/vodka method. The way this works is almost like the DSB bucket but a lot easier. When you add sugar or vodka ( They both do the same thing) to your tank it feeds anerobic bacteria. They eat the sugar , then the sugar is gone, so now theres a million bacteria in the tank with nothing to eat. So they eat your nitrates, at the same time your skimmer skims out these bacteria that have nitrates. Therefor lowering your nitrates I have a red sea test kit and my nitrates were off the chart. I'm guessing at least 60-80ppm, the test kit didn't go up that high. So I decided to add a little sugar since water changes were useless. In 2 weeks my nitrates were down to 0 ppm and have stayed there ever since. I did not do a water change in the sugar period and haven't done one in a loooong time. Now in my 92G tank I have a few damsels, 2 clowns, pajama cardinal, and two medium size tangs, I have never had a nitrate problem since. I have started manyt threads on this and steered many people in the right direction. Also I do not know one person that has lost any livestock including corals doing this. If any people are interested let me know, I'm here to help
I just came across this thread, Have any of you ever tried the sugar/vodka method. The way this works is almost like the DSB bucket but a lot easier. When you add sugar or vodka ( They both do the same thing) to your tank it feeds anerobic bacteria. They eat the sugar , then the sugar is gone, so now theres a million bacteria in the tank with nothing to eat. So they eat your nitrates, at the same time your skimmer skims out these bacteria that have nitrates. Therefor lowering your nitrates
I have a red sea test kit and my nitrates were off the chart. I'm guessing at least 60-80ppm, the test kit didn't go up that high. So I decided to add a little sugar since water changes were useless. In 2 weeks my nitrates were down to 0 ppm and have stayed there ever since. I did not do a water change in the sugar period and haven't done one in a loooong time. Now in my 92G tank I have a few damsels, 2 clowns, pajama cardinal, and two medium size tangs, I have never had a nitrate problem since. I have started manyt threads on this and steered many people in the right direction. Also I do not know one person that has lost any livestock including corals doing this. If any people are interested let me know, I'm here to helpBeanAnimal
Premium Member
fishy... you are correct, that is for another thread and has no place here. I don't want to see this thread get hijacked with the whole vodka algea bloom arguement... .So please kindly start another thread and refrain from using this one to further your cause. If I remember correctly, this is not the first time you have somehwat hijacked a thread with this information, aplogized in advance and then continued....
There are plenty of vodka threads here and I am sure if there is interest you could start a new one. In this case we are talking about remote DSBs contructed in buckets to handle nitrates and other issues.
Thanks
There are plenty of vodka threads here and I am sure if there is interest you could start a new one. In this case we are talking about remote DSBs contructed in buckets to handle nitrates and other issues.
Thanks
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Spuds, shall I repeat myself again? You seem to want to convince me of something I already know.
I said "Of course if you can get hte bucket to deform then a bulkhead would work... that certainly does not make what I said incorrect. Traditional bulkheads don't work well on curved surfaces."
Just because you got your bucket to "deform" and become flat does not mean that bulkheads work on curved surfaces (which you are infering by repeating your statement). You also seemed to have a problem with the concept of a uniseal and how they work (they don't need a "round" hole")
So for the sake of helping people instead of giving them partial information:
TRADITIONAL BULKHEADS DO NOT WORK WELL ON CURVED SURFACES. UNISEALS WORK VERY WELL ON CURVED SURFACES.
I am not sure how much clearer it could be. Once again, you tightened a bulkhead down and deformed the bucket so that it has a flat area. The bulkhead then sealed. I am glad you have no leaks... but that certainly does not discount anything I have said, nor does it make traditional bulkheads suitable for curved surfaces.
I said "Of course if you can get hte bucket to deform then a bulkhead would work... that certainly does not make what I said incorrect. Traditional bulkheads don't work well on curved surfaces."
Just because you got your bucket to "deform" and become flat does not mean that bulkheads work on curved surfaces (which you are infering by repeating your statement). You also seemed to have a problem with the concept of a uniseal and how they work (they don't need a "round" hole")
So for the sake of helping people instead of giving them partial information:
TRADITIONAL BULKHEADS DO NOT WORK WELL ON CURVED SURFACES. UNISEALS WORK VERY WELL ON CURVED SURFACES.
I am not sure how much clearer it could be. Once again, you tightened a bulkhead down and deformed the bucket so that it has a flat area. The bulkhead then sealed. I am glad you have no leaks... but that certainly does not discount anything I have said, nor does it make traditional bulkheads suitable for curved surfaces.
BeanAnimal, are you implying that Spuds used some type of "NONTRADITIONAL" Bullkhead on his curved surface ?
You might want to try stating that "traditional bulkheads don't work well on RIGID, SMALL RADII, curved surfaces.
You may also want to take a look at relative cost and availability for this particular application.
Happy Reef Keeping ! > Barry
You might want to try stating that "traditional bulkheads don't work well on RIGID, SMALL RADII, curved surfaces.
You may also want to take a look at relative cost and availability for this particular application.
Happy Reef Keeping ! > Barry
Herpervet
New member
Beananimal,
Tell me more about the uniseal. I may need to add some plumbing to my rubbermaid stock tank and I am running out of relatively flat surfaces.
It sounds like this would allow me to make a penetration on one of the curved sides which would be an ideal area for what I am trying to do.
Where do I get them. Online vendors etc.
Sorry for hijacking the tread.
Tell me more about the uniseal. I may need to add some plumbing to my rubbermaid stock tank and I am running out of relatively flat surfaces.
It sounds like this would allow me to make a penetration on one of the curved sides which would be an ideal area for what I am trying to do.
Where do I get them. Online vendors etc.
Sorry for hijacking the tread.
Uniseals are typically cheaper than bulkheads anyway and easier to install. they may not be available at your local hardware store, but then again i haven't been able to find regular bulkheads locally either (though i haven't looked very hard).
If you're buying online, bulkheads and uniseals are equally attainable.
www.savko.com has uniseals
4.61 for a 2" uniseal compared to $15-$30 for a traditional bulkhead.
I've been running this remote deep sand bed for about 2 months, and i notice that a great proportion of the top sand turns into greyish dark colour. Originally the sand was white. However, the bottom part of the sand remain white. I was able to see this because i put the sand on a square aquarium and locate it beside my sump. Is this discoloration because the phosphate binding thing? Hopefully someone in this thread could help me.
Thanks,
Kelvin
Thanks,
Kelvin
