david00061
New member
I just leave everyone alone and feed 3 or 4 times a day. And wait it out. Haven't ever lost a fish the two times I had a break out.
Dual 250 gallon Marineland Monterey Deep Dimension build
- Thread starter davidfrances
- Start date
davidfrances
New member
Yeah, in 40 years of keeping saltwater I have never had any luck waiting it out. All my fish eventually die.
I usually try to find a few things positive about the experience. In this case, I found a metal brush embedded in a piece of my base rock. I suspect that was causing some of my recent water quality issues. (do not know where the brush came from, by the look of it it had been there a long time.)
Additionally, my wife told me she would like me to create some caves or overhangs in the rock, so I have an opportunity to redo my aquascape.
I usually try to find a few things positive about the experience. In this case, I found a metal brush embedded in a piece of my base rock. I suspect that was causing some of my recent water quality issues. (do not know where the brush came from, by the look of it it had been there a long time.)
Additionally, my wife told me she would like me to create some caves or overhangs in the rock, so I have an opportunity to redo my aquascape.
davidfrances
New member
Dinoflagellates killed my reef
Dinoflagellates killed my reef
Well, dino's killed one of my reefs
Since I was still in the fallow period fighting ich, I decided to tear the right tank down and redo it.
Last weekend I drained the tank, vacuumed out the sand and threw it away, and washed everything down with a bleach solution. I removed the few softies I had left to my frag system (after a freshwater dip to hopefully kill the dino spores). My base rock was bleached for 24 hours, then washed in an acid solution, then soaked in fresh water for 24 hours. I then let the rocks dry on my patio.
I refilled the tank with fresh RODI, added new sand, and returned the dry base rock. I ran the tank with freshwater only for 24 hours, then added some Prime to neutralize any residual bleach.
Salt was added this owning, and I am restarting the cycle with some dead shrimp in the sump.
Dinoflagellates killed my reef
Well, dino's killed one of my reefs
Since I was still in the fallow period fighting ich, I decided to tear the right tank down and redo it.
Last weekend I drained the tank, vacuumed out the sand and threw it away, and washed everything down with a bleach solution. I removed the few softies I had left to my frag system (after a freshwater dip to hopefully kill the dino spores). My base rock was bleached for 24 hours, then washed in an acid solution, then soaked in fresh water for 24 hours. I then let the rocks dry on my patio.
I refilled the tank with fresh RODI, added new sand, and returned the dry base rock. I ran the tank with freshwater only for 24 hours, then added some Prime to neutralize any residual bleach.
Salt was added this owning, and I am restarting the cycle with some dead shrimp in the sump.
davidfrances
New member
On the bright side, I added a NextReef MR1 Monster media reactor to my Left Tank, running GFO and carbon, and am very pleased with the improved clarity.
davidfrances
New member
I mentioned that I had to nuke the right side tank due to an outbreak of dinoflagellates. I completed the cycle by late November, and finally returned the fish and corals. I also treated all the fish to a two-week cupramine treatment, and then they were in my frag system for over a month. The only fish I lost was my Harlequin Tusk - he jumped out when I was cleaning the frag tanks and I didn't notice it until too late. :-(
Anyway, here are some updated photos. I have a really nice Chevron tang in QT, and one he's clean I will replace my HT.
Left side tank:
Anyway, here are some updated photos. I have a really nice Chevron tang in QT, and one he's clean I will replace my HT.
Left side tank:
davidfrances
New member
More left side tank pics:
davidfrances
New member
Right side tank pics (post nuke):
E.Rude
New member
David, great tanks man! I've been lurking silently in the background for some time now and got a 200DD a few months ago. I have two ReefBreeder Photon 32's above mine, which are suspended from conduit light hangers. The light-spill is driving me nuts and I'm considering a Monterey canopy...I love the way you have your 24's mounted, BTW.
What is the distance b/w the bottom of your lights and the trim of the tank? I'd like to lower my lights to see the light spread on them at that height to get an idea of what it would look like if I got a canopy. Thanks in advance!
What is the distance b/w the bottom of your lights and the trim of the tank? I'd like to lower my lights to see the light spread on them at that height to get an idea of what it would look like if I got a canopy. Thanks in advance!
davidfrances
New member
Thank you for the compliments. Since I have four (4) of the 24's over each tank, two in the back and two in the front, I have the back lights lower to the water. The back set is about two inches above the trim, but about three inches above the water surface. On my DD's, the water level is about an inch below the top of the trim.
The front set of lights is 4" above the trim, and 5" above the water surface.
I was able to vary the height using different length hex bolts.
If you are worried about light spill, then a canopy is really the way to go. I am very happy with the way I mounted the lights on the T tracks, it makes maintenance easier, and I can slide the lights in and out on the track very easily.
Good luck solving your light spill issue
The front set of lights is 4" above the trim, and 5" above the water surface.
I was able to vary the height using different length hex bolts.
If you are worried about light spill, then a canopy is really the way to go. I am very happy with the way I mounted the lights on the T tracks, it makes maintenance easier, and I can slide the lights in and out on the track very easily.
Good luck solving your light spill issue
davidfrances
New member
Nope
davidfrances
New member
New Goldflake Angel for my FOWLR
New Goldflake Angel for my FOWLR
I got a steal on this little guy from a LFS. Eating NLS pellets, frozen miss and krill like a pig. In QT now:
New Goldflake Angel for my FOWLR
I got a steal on this little guy from a LFS. Eating NLS pellets, frozen miss and krill like a pig. In QT now:
davidfrances
New member
Unfortunately, both of my Skimz skimmers keep crapping out on me. Each of my 250DT's is running a Skimz SM251 skimmer. About every 6 months, one or both of the needle wheel pumps siezes up, and requires a replacement impeller, at a cost of $99 each!. I have had a few replaced under warranty, but the manufacturer rarely responds to email, and the vender, Aqua Cave, has been fussy about replacing these. I have also has the electrical cords fail, resulting in a rather shocking experience, doubly so when I found the cost of replacement pumps is $200!
I am replacing the Skimz with AquaMaxx CO-3 skimmers.
Here are some photos of the failed impellers. This one failed catastrophically, and I had to dig it out of the pump:
This is what the impeller looks like inside, after the plastic sheath peels off. It shows a fair bit of rust:
Here are some shots of other failed impellers. This is how they look after 90-120 days.
The impellers tend to seize up and fail shortly after they start to crack. I tried to remove the plastic sheath and run the pumps, they sound like a concrete drill for a few hours, and then seize up.
I am replacing the Skimz with AquaMaxx CO-3 skimmers.
Here are some photos of the failed impellers. This one failed catastrophically, and I had to dig it out of the pump:
This is what the impeller looks like inside, after the plastic sheath peels off. It shows a fair bit of rust:
Here are some shots of other failed impellers. This is how they look after 90-120 days.
The impellers tend to seize up and fail shortly after they start to crack. I tried to remove the plastic sheath and run the pumps, they sound like a concrete drill for a few hours, and then seize up.
davidfrances
New member
Why?
davidfrances
New member
I'm sorry, but that makes no sense to me. I am painfully aware of what I have been through with this product. All skimmer marine pumps I am aware of are impeller driven. Why does a needle wheel make a difference?
The Plastic coating on the impeller magnet is the component that is failing, not the wheel (although on one the needle wheel broke off as I was trying to extract the cracked impeller assembly from the pump body).
Do you have data that supports your claim that air induction is more efficient than a needle wheel? If so, please provide a link.
Ohh no.. I was just saying that all of us have been using the needle wheels for so long, why is there not an easier way to make microfine bubbles in a skimmer than a wheel that beats the water like that.
I was trying to think outside of the box, with you, not at you. to save the headache and frustration.
I have gone through 3 skimmers and I have had my share of issues too. Just when you need it the most (on vacation) it seems to break. Then to wonder why there is just water and no bubbles, why should the water back flow into the air tube and create salt creep.
I have not had issues with standard pump impellers. OK maybe one. I have seen more issues with needle wheels. Almost like the sudden jar or hitting the air and the water are making it develop microfine stress cracks.
I was trying to think outside of the box, with you, not at you. to save the headache and frustration.
I have gone through 3 skimmers and I have had my share of issues too. Just when you need it the most (on vacation) it seems to break. Then to wonder why there is just water and no bubbles, why should the water back flow into the air tube and create salt creep.
I have not had issues with standard pump impellers. OK maybe one. I have seen more issues with needle wheels. Almost like the sudden jar or hitting the air and the water are making it develop microfine stress cracks.
davidfrances
New member
That makes more sense to me and I tend to agree. No offense intended, and none taken, OK?
I used to run AquaC skimmers, but the spray injection system requires a large pump to operate.
I even thought about the LifeReef skimmer. I still own a vintage Wet Dry filter I bought from Jeff Turcheck back in 1992, it is built like a tank, and I am sure his skimmers are well built too. The shape seemed goofy and inefficient, all right angles and offset collection cup, and they required a Mag 9.5 pump to run. Mags just generate too pump heat and consume too much power for my systems.
I agree that the needle wheel seems to be a weak link in a lot of skimmers. I am hoping the AquaMaxx skimmer Sicce 3.0 pumps are more reliable.
The retailer said they will honor my warranty claim on the pumps and impellers, so I'll keep my fingers crossed. I am still planning on jettisoning the Skimz as soon as I install the AquaMaxx CO-3's.
I used to run AquaC skimmers, but the spray injection system requires a large pump to operate.
I even thought about the LifeReef skimmer. I still own a vintage Wet Dry filter I bought from Jeff Turcheck back in 1992, it is built like a tank, and I am sure his skimmers are well built too. The shape seemed goofy and inefficient, all right angles and offset collection cup, and they required a Mag 9.5 pump to run. Mags just generate too pump heat and consume too much power for my systems.
I agree that the needle wheel seems to be a weak link in a lot of skimmers. I am hoping the AquaMaxx skimmer Sicce 3.0 pumps are more reliable.
The retailer said they will honor my warranty claim on the pumps and impellers, so I'll keep my fingers crossed. I am still planning on jettisoning the Skimz as soon as I install the AquaMaxx CO-3's.
davidfrances
New member
Well, I spent the entire day yesterday removing my old Skimz 251 skimmers and replacing them with AquaMaxx ConeS CO-3 skimmers. Recall, I have been complaining that the Skimz skimmer impellers would fail after a few months, and several of the pumps had their cords fail, resulting in electrical current dumping into the tank, and causing shocks on several occasions.
I use 40G breeders for the sump, and given the diameter of the old Skimz, I had to first pull my ATO reservoir out, then pull the sump completely out to remove the Skimz body, what a PITA!. On the bright side, I was able to clean behind my tanks, and do a thorough cleaning of my sump. I was also able to "pimp" my sump and ATO reservoir with lights, and it looks good!
My initial review of the AquaMaxx ConeS CO-3 is very positive. To begin with, it only uses one feeder pump, so it will consume less energy. The pump is external, as opposed to internal with the Skimz, so that should make maintenance easier. Additionally, the adjustment feature on the AquaMaxx is exponentially better than Skimz, allowing one to easily dial the skimmer in.
Skimz.sg is replacing my pumps, but I will still be selling my 251's on the secondary market after the pumps are replaced.
Here are photos of the left tank sump area:
Can you see the green glow in my ATO reservoir? The light I installed changes from red, to blue to green, sorta cool?
I use 40G breeders for the sump, and given the diameter of the old Skimz, I had to first pull my ATO reservoir out, then pull the sump completely out to remove the Skimz body, what a PITA!. On the bright side, I was able to clean behind my tanks, and do a thorough cleaning of my sump. I was also able to "pimp" my sump and ATO reservoir with lights, and it looks good!
My initial review of the AquaMaxx ConeS CO-3 is very positive. To begin with, it only uses one feeder pump, so it will consume less energy. The pump is external, as opposed to internal with the Skimz, so that should make maintenance easier. Additionally, the adjustment feature on the AquaMaxx is exponentially better than Skimz, allowing one to easily dial the skimmer in.
Skimz.sg is replacing my pumps, but I will still be selling my 251's on the secondary market after the pumps are replaced.
Here are photos of the left tank sump area:
Can you see the green glow in my ATO reservoir? The light I installed changes from red, to blue to green, sorta cool?
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