Dwarf Seahorses
- Thread starter btreyes
- Start date
WerezMiePie
New member
Let me be strait out... Dwarf seahorses are a pain in the ***... They only eat live food and are slow eaters so assuming you have other fish it would be dam near impossible for them to get any food...
ichthyogeek
New member
Umm...just a thought, but don't all seahorses need cooler temps around 70 F? Reef aquariums usually are about 10 degrees higher, which fosters bacteria growth, which seahorse owners don't want. FusedJaw has an article about not sticking seahorses in refugiums/sumps, which is basically what you're doing. You'd also have to hatch BBS for them daily.
Pros: leftover BBS would go to feed any fish, corals, inverts that can take it. Dwarf seahorses could eat any zooplankton generated by reef.
I wouldn't do it...
Pros: leftover BBS would go to feed any fish, corals, inverts that can take it. Dwarf seahorses could eat any zooplankton generated by reef.
I wouldn't do it...
WerezMiePie
New member
Most seahorses range in the 76 f range dwarf seahorses max at like 3 inches and only need a 10 gallon space...
I've never had, nor have I ever seen a dwarf seahorse that got to 3".
In fact the biggest I've had never got to 2".
The most often recommended temperature range recommended IMO, is the 68° to 74° range for dwarfs and for tropic seahorses.
Some seahorses need to be kept at 68° or lower.
In fact the biggest I've had never got to 2".
The most often recommended temperature range recommended IMO, is the 68° to 74° range for dwarfs and for tropic seahorses.
Some seahorses need to be kept at 68° or lower.
WerezMiePie
New member
It looks like I have no idea what I'm talking about...
No, you just have a differing opinion on the matter.
As I stated, the temperature issue is IMO, but others have differing opinions on the matter, and indeed, there are hobbyists who are successful at higher temperatures than the 76° you mentioned.
However, I believe there are many more that have failed at the higher temperatures.
As to size of the dwarf H. zosterae, the ID GUIDE states: Maximum recorded adult height: 2.5 cm but I've seen hobbyists state they had ones slightly over an inch in height.
You can probably fit 3 or 4 dwarfs on a silver dollar.
As to tank size, it's better (again, IMO) to have smaller tanks due to their feeding habit of preferring to sit perched waiting for the live food to come close enough to be snicked up. This means that to provide the food density required one needs to hatch and enrich a heck of a lot more brine shrimp than for a smaller tank.
I've had no problems with around 50 dwarfs in a 5g tank.
As I stated, the temperature issue is IMO, but others have differing opinions on the matter, and indeed, there are hobbyists who are successful at higher temperatures than the 76° you mentioned.
However, I believe there are many more that have failed at the higher temperatures.
As to size of the dwarf H. zosterae, the ID GUIDE states: Maximum recorded adult height: 2.5 cm but I've seen hobbyists state they had ones slightly over an inch in height.
You can probably fit 3 or 4 dwarfs on a silver dollar.
As to tank size, it's better (again, IMO) to have smaller tanks due to their feeding habit of preferring to sit perched waiting for the live food to come close enough to be snicked up. This means that to provide the food density required one needs to hatch and enrich a heck of a lot more brine shrimp than for a smaller tank.
I've had no problems with around 50 dwarfs in a 5g tank.
chowz
Member
It doesn't work out very well I mounted a tank inside my reef tank . I ended up getting hydroids in with my dwarfs. Hydroids spred easy even from the spray of air bubbles. The Hydroids eat all the shrimp and make it hard to feed the horses. I haven't had amy problems since seting up the tank away from my reef and not mixing supplies between tanks.
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