Dying to add fish

Mghanayem

New member
Hi all, I have a 55 gallon saltwater tank with about 5 coral frags and about 80lbs of live rock.

I had an inch outbreak and lost all but a lawnmower blenny and a snowflake eel. Neither of these ever showed signs of ich but, I know that it can still be there. They were in the tank alone for 3 weeks after the other fish succumb to the terrible MI. On March 20th I got rid of all the fish leave a couple of hammer corals, some zaos, a frogspawn and a leather. There are also about 5 snails and 3 crabs in there...

SO NOW FOR THE OBVIOUS QUESTION!!!! Can I add fish, I've waited like a kid on Christmas and am DYING to add fish. I know I want a couple of clown fish, and a nice colorful Toby.... Any other suggestions?
 
Hi all, I have a 55 gallon saltwater tank with about 5 coral frags and about 80lbs of live rock.

I had an inch outbreak and lost all but a lawnmower blenny and a snowflake eel. Neither of these ever showed signs of ich but, I know that it can still be there. They were in the tank alone for 3 weeks after the other fish succumb to the terrible MI. On March 20th I got rid of all the fish leave a couple of hammer corals, some zaos, a frogspawn and a leather. There are also about 5 snails and 3 crabs in there...

SO NOW FOR THE OBVIOUS QUESTION!!!! Can I add fish, I've waited like a kid on Christmas and am DYING to add fish. I know I want a couple of clown fish, and a nice colorful Toby.... Any other suggestions?

Way too early to add fish unless you have a QT tank to put them in and treat.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1985626

So what about Marine Ich (cryptocaryon irritans)?
The life cycle of this parasite is interesting and is important to understand when evaluating a treatment. The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish and that is what you see symptomatically when you see "salt sprinkled on the fish". After that, the trophont leaves the fish and becomes what is called a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but it could go for as long as eighteen hours after it leaves it's fish host. Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont. Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die. They prefer to seek out the skin and gill tissue, then transform into trophonts, and begin the process all over again. What this means is that when your tank is infected, you can actually see symptoms during a very small part of the life cycle, and it why your tank is infected even though your fish are resistant. It will also explain why symptoms come and go.

Many hobbyists are fooled into believing they have cured their fish of the parasites, only to find Ich present again on fish a few weeks later; a reason why following through with a full treatment protocol is so important. Don't make this mistake and be lulled into a false sense of security. The parasites may be in a stage where they are merely regrouping and multiplying for their "next offensive." In the wild, this sort of massive reproductive phase ensures that a few will find a suitable host to continue on the cycle. In the close confines of our aquariums, though, it means comparatively massive infection rates.

This disease is usually associated with several environmental triggers. Changes in water temperature, exposure to high levels of ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate, low pH levels, low dissolved oxygen often associated with overcrowding, are all factors contributing to the onset of the disease. You could lump all of these in a general category of "stress", but it is more appropriate to think of all of these as "unnatural conditions". In fact, Cryptocaryon irritans is rare in the wild even more unlikely to be lethal. Ich is truly a disease that exploits the conditions of captivity to reproduce and easily find suitable hosts.

By the way, trophonts are under the skin so cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp have no real effect on reducing this parasite.

You can also read more here:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1990809
 
I know it is hard to be patient. Do it anyway, or you will be saying the same thing all over again in a few months.
Ich sucks and you will be wise to learn from this issue and be certain you never face it again.
There is some great information in the links above, use it to become a smarter reefer.
 
Pain to wait, yes. But you are this far in. Better to wait now than have to start over again.
On the 18th it will be 72 days for my tank. I have had my Tomato's in QT for 8 weeks, and can't wait to let them loose in their new home.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
Buy your fish now and start them in QT. By the time they are ready for the display you will be done with your fallow period. If you are planning to add the new fish with out quarantine, like it kind sounds from your post, the fallow period you are doing now is pointless.
 
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