Easy way to remove braces?

Gimplar

New member
On my 125, it still has the two braces for lids, which i am going to replace with clear acrylic braces. The only problem is removing the current, ugly brown ones. I dont have a saw,( i dont want any chips falling into the tank) and i've tried melting it off...cough cough, cutting it with a knife, and breaking it with some pliers, but i dont feel to safe exserting that much force next to my precious fishtank. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
 
Maybe I've taken the wrong impression, but it sounds like you are trying to remove the braces on a tank that is full of water. That's just asking for trouble, as the braces are generally put there for structural reasons (ie, keeping the front and back from parting ways).

Even if it's not full, you'll need to replace them with something that is as structurally sound as the braces you remove.
 
Hrrm...okay, i never thought they were for structural reasons. Anyone know if they are or arnt? i thought they were for the glass lids that go ontop. I didnt think they were cause my 55 gal didnt have the brace in it either.
 
I have heard from many people that they are for structural support, If you read my main thread on my 180 its on one of the fist 5 pages, I just dont remember what page, its been awhile, but like I said ive heard it from more than 1 person, more like 5 or so. So be carfule with that... Well people were saying that about a 150 I usta have.
 
The plastic top on your tank serves 4 purposes.

1) It gives structural integrity to basically, a box with an open top.
It keeps the front and back panels flat.

2) It hides the water level line. You just need to look into the
tanks top and see that the water level flowing into your
overflow box is at least 3/4" below the top of the tanks frame.

3) It gives you a nice snug place to drop in your glass covers.


4) It gives the manufacturer something to color so you can
somewhat match the tank to your decor.
 
All-Glass brands have a plastic one piece top and bottom piece-same pieces, that do hold the glass front and rear panel from bowing and breaking. All-Glass have 2 thin braces. There's 1000 lbs of water trying to push its way out! Oceanic brands have a wider glass piece in the middle. I had an All glass 55 gallon and the brace(55s just have 1 brace) got cracked from a hot bulb. And being very old! I siliconed a piece of glass across (when it was empty) and many months later it popped lose and broke the light hood. Just pulled it apart. A glass lid wouldnt be very good on an aquarium anyway. It would hold in heat and not give good air exchange. If you have cut them, I would order another one and empty the tank, when you get it. You will have to cut the silicone loose with a razor all around. You do need the braces.
 
4) It gives the manufacturer something to color so you can


I think you guys maybe misinterpreting what i meant by braces. I'm talking about the plastic piece that runs perpendicular with the tank. They're not visible and do not cover the water line, i understand the plastic boarders do that. Regardless, id otn think im going to cut them out, now that you guys have scared the poop out of me. But With my MH's, you can see the shadow of the braces. I have 4 vho's and 2 MH's and i thin it can be fixed my taking out the VHO's and adding two more MH's. The hard part is getting $400 to spend on another retrokit. But thanks for the advice! :D

Nelson :lol:
 
i used 2 pieces of acrylic on on top of each other. mine were like a 1/8 inch thick a piece.
i installed them with 4 nylone bolts. on top of the Brace.

then i let the water down in my tank a little like 3 inches.

then i put a large bag. (emptly) on top of the water
directly under where i was going to cut. this holds any plastic droppings.

i use a hack saw to cut the brace.

i didnt cut the brace until i had the acrylic already mounted. i

i also turned the blade on the hacksaw upside down so i could cut upwards. ( actally the brace is inside the hacksaws so to speak).

but i wouldnt cut!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! until you already have it mounted our supported with those long clamps from Sears..

or if you have alot of storage bins you can always drop the water. better safe than sorry :(
 
I agree ^^. My tank has 2 of those brackets and they look like they are just there to support lids for the tank. I cant see them being much of a support with how much weight just water puts on the glass but putting in the acrylic in before removing them is a great way to be safer than sorry.
 
The plastic rim on tanks with single or dual plastic braces is a one piece injection molded part. Even with the fact the brace / rim is very thin and flexible, it does it,s job by it's tensile strength rating. The glass is trying to bow out, and at the same time the plastic would need to stretch but it's tensile strength level will hold it tight, not allowing the glass to bow.

Doing what Markandkristen did would be the best way. Also remember that you have a glass tank, and the only way you can attach acrylic to it would be mechanically ( screws ) You can't silicone acrylic to glass and expect it to have any strength or staying power.
 
I had an old 40 gallon tank someone cut the brace out of when the tank was full of water you could see a noticable bow in the middle of the tank so I would be very careful saltwater is real heavy and I dont know abuot you but I would be devastated if i came home and found my 180 scattered on the floor
 
I had a 55 with a broken center brace. When I filled the tank with water I couldnt beleive how far the glass flexed out. There was atleast an 1/8" gap in the center brace. I tried to fix with a piece of acrylic and liquid nails, and it still pulled apart when full. I just ordered a replacement top pc from all glass and all is well.
 
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