Good tips, Bean. The drip loop in very important. Also,Bean, I've recently started using the Liquid Electrical Tape. It started when I did some outdoor low voltage landscape lighting for a customer with a house on the beach - An environment where salt is everywhere. Just the salt air will literally rust steel overnight. Anyway I sealed the solderless butt connectors with L.E.T. and so far, so good. I also started using it on my reef with the same good result. The one advantage I see over silicone is the faster drying time. It dries to the touch in minutes instead of hours. When you're on someone elses clock, time means a lot. And when I'm installing new equipment in the reef, it may mean that all power is off to the reef until the project is complete. Try it some time, I think you'll like it. It also works good on boat trailer lights that get submerged.
Looks like a fine job so far Joseney! Nice work!
Joseney, If you haven't sealed them yet, May I suggest that the wire nuts you have might be a little too big for the size/amount of wire you have them on. Test it this way...With the ballast unplugged, firmly grip the wires in one hand and the wire nut in the other, if you tug on them firmly, they should not come apart. If they do, you need a smaller wire nut. Try oranges or small blues.
Silicone will also work in place of L.E.T. Just be sure to force it down into the nut and seal all the way around all the wires. Wait for the silicone to completely dry before energizing the circuit. Same goes for the L.E.T. It may or may not be a condutor while it's still wet and uncured.
I use solderless connectors (crimp-ons) on my aqaurium wires. I find it's a cleaner look, and easier to seal with waterproofing. Not saying it's better, just my preference.
