Electricity Question
- Thread starter spjeff69
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Angela Short
New member
Ussually a built in microwave has a dedicated circute.
Pickupman66
New member
get a larger circuit breaker or create a seperate one. get an electricion for the latter
The NEC requires a dedicated line for the refrigerator and microwave; in addition to the stove and water heater if electric. Do not just add a higher breaker w/o consulting an electrician. The gauge of wire used in your house is also a determining factor of how much electricity it can carry and by changing out your breaker you could be setting yourself up for a fire. Some sparky speak up here and give facts that I am discussing. I am a GC and leave this trade to electricians.
KAiNE
Premium Member
Electrical codes can vary greatly depending on where you live (out of Davidson county or in) they also change from year to year. My statements below reflect codes as of about 2000 (when i had enough of the heat and stopped being an electrician!!).
I would NOT simply put a larger breaker in because breakers are rated for the wire size attached. Generally speaking the fridge plug "should" be dedicated but it isn't always especially outside of Davidson county. I live in Rutherford and mine is not (built 91). Built in microwaves generally are dedicated as well. Kitchen plugs should be 2 to a circuit meaning you will see a gfci and a regular plug per circuit if you "test" the gfi you can locate the other plug. Kitchen plugs should also be 20amp circuits where as other household plugs are 15amp. Breakfast nooks are also normally 20amp as well.
Depending on your lighting you may need to add a circuit or maybe even two. I had to run 2 because if my heaters turn on while my lights are on it will throw a 20a breaker.
Here is what i would do..... locate the plug you wish to use, turn off its breaker (or trip it) and look for what else is not working.
I dont know how far from me you live but I don't mind helping you run another circuit if you need it.
I would NOT simply put a larger breaker in because breakers are rated for the wire size attached. Generally speaking the fridge plug "should" be dedicated but it isn't always especially outside of Davidson county. I live in Rutherford and mine is not (built 91). Built in microwaves generally are dedicated as well. Kitchen plugs should be 2 to a circuit meaning you will see a gfci and a regular plug per circuit if you "test" the gfi you can locate the other plug. Kitchen plugs should also be 20amp circuits where as other household plugs are 15amp. Breakfast nooks are also normally 20amp as well.
Depending on your lighting you may need to add a circuit or maybe even two. I had to run 2 because if my heaters turn on while my lights are on it will throw a 20a breaker.
Here is what i would do..... locate the plug you wish to use, turn off its breaker (or trip it) and look for what else is not working.
I dont know how far from me you live but I don't mind helping you run another circuit if you need it.
If this is a new house it should be under the NEC which was adopted by the entire country several years ago and the inspectors are all usually state, not local. Of course, there are instances where certain areas have their own inspectors, I think that Franklin might be one... Also, you could always DIY it and then have it inspected if you have any question. It will cost you but it will be done up to code.
Rob
Rob
Sir Knight
New member
If I remember correctly, a 20 amp breaker doesn't mean it can handle a 20 amp constant load. I think it is 17 to 18 amps before it will trip.
Also matching the correct gauge wire to the breaker is very important. For example: if you use a 14 gauge wire on a 20 amp breaker and go to a max load you could start a fire.
This is just basic electric knowledge from talking to people in the field and doing some of my own work.
If your breaker box is full and you can not add another single breaker, I think they make dual breakers that take up one slot.
I think the rule there is as long as you don't exceed the max load for the box you are OK. again I am not an expert.
Also matching the correct gauge wire to the breaker is very important. For example: if you use a 14 gauge wire on a 20 amp breaker and go to a max load you could start a fire.
This is just basic electric knowledge from talking to people in the field and doing some of my own work.
If your breaker box is full and you can not add another single breaker, I think they make dual breakers that take up one slot.
I think the rule there is as long as you don't exceed the max load for the box you are OK. again I am not an expert.
KAiNE
Premium Member
MH = 3x250 = 750w (assuming this is actual consumption)
VHO 4x160 = 640w (assuming this is actual consumption)
lighting total = 1390w
heaters 2x300w
Other misc pumps and fuge lighting = ??w
It wasnt an immediate trip, it would happen if certain things were on, like say heaters and fuge lighting. The heaters were the biggest drawers besides the lighting.
I also had at that time my skimmer pump on that circuit (jap Iwaki 40rlt) and misc. other small pumps. My 2 main returns were already on a seperate circuit (switched under stand for easy turn off at feeding time). My fuge lighting period also overlaps into MH time as well.
The choices were to get an extention and run the skimmer to the main pump circuit, or to just run another circuit, I chose to run another. I added a panel in my attic just above the equipment area so it was an easy run!
I had originally planed for 2 dedicated 20a circuits and could have redistributed the load on the 2 but found it easier and "cleaner" to just drop another 20a circuit.
KAiNE
Premium Member
You are correct.
the main thing is heat..... take the NES lines on the pole for instance, they are FAR smaller than a home with a 400amp service (500,000ths). This is because in open air they are cooler than when shoved through pipe or in a wall.
You can indeed put double breakers (twins) in a panel if it has a spot for them, not all panel slots accept a twin.
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We don't close the new house until Jan 31. It was built in 2000 and is in Clarksville, TN. Believe it or not, there is no microhood, so we will be using a countertop microwave, so I don't think there is a dedicated line for the microwave. From what I can gather from the pictures, there are 4 2 outlet boxes in the kitchen that will be available. I'm assuming there is a 5th one for the fridge. I am not familiar with what amperage is going to the kitchen either.
You actually have a pretty good chance of the house being wired well. Both inspectors in this area are very tedious and diligent in their work. I would hope for the best on the number of outlets per breaker though. If it were me, I would be considering getting a new line ran or DIY a new one in. It would be my guess that there is plenty of space in the panel for this. If you go to the North TN site John is an electrician and can either do the work or put you over to someone that can take care of you, if he is too busy.
Rob
Rob
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