Enough is enough - How to get back?

[Jmunk]

Well, tanks closing in on I think 4 or 5 years here now, but you sure wouldn't know by looking at it. Only thing happy in there (other than all of the fish) are the pesty xenia and my huge toadstool that is home to my two clowns. Everything else has pretty much rotted away.

Throughout the tanks years, it's had its ups and downs, and I mainly fed off that. When it was doing well, I was taking care of it and the circle repeated, however, when things started to not work, things died, tank didn't look good etc, I would lose motivation and stop putting in as much effort, therefore making things worse.

Bottom line is, I want to rejuvenate the tank. I'm trying to figure out what went wrong/what I haven't been doing correctly so that I can make sure I fix what the core of the problems were. It's a 90G, and I've had the same ESHOPPS S-120 skimmer on there since the day it was setup, that's it for filtration. Over the past year and half or so, I've probably done maybe 3-4 water changes. I'm not going to lie, I don't like doing water changes, at all. My plan was, to try and ensure success, is upgrade the skimmer, and snag an algae scrubber, as well as put more live rock in the tank (currently there's a minimalist look going on, but I don't think it's serving the tank well). I plan on doing 30G water changes around once a week for a month or so to try and get rid of most of the water in there. And to note, I'm looking for a LPS/softy reef, not really interested in doing any SPS at all. If I do, it'll be down the line.

Am I on the right track here? Would those upgrades allow the tank to actually do well and flourish, without the bi-weekly water changes? If not, is there another upgrade I could add? I don't mind spending the money if it'll get the tank looking right. If it's a matter of me having to do water changes monthly, then I'll buck up and do it, I'd just like to see if there's another way.

Anyway, sorry for the long rant, any suggestions are appreciated!

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

It's a start.
If you really do not like water changes read up on the Triton method & see if it is for you.
You will need to buy the supplements & dose accordingly.
More rock is a good idea, gentle flow & moderate lighting would serve most LPS.
IF Triton is not your thing then water changes are the next best thing.
Not what you want to hear I know, perhaps they could be automated?

 

[Jmunk]

It's a start.
If you really do not like water changes read up on the Triton method & see if it is for you.
You will need to buy the supplements & dose accordingly.
More rock is a good idea, gentle flow & moderate lighting would serve most LPS.
IF Triton is not your thing then water changes are the next best thing.
Not what you want to hear I know, perhaps they could be automated?

No, it's exactly what I wanted to hear! It's good suggestions. I can't automate the process unfortunately, just not in the cards with the house and where the tank is, I've thought about it before.

I've got Mitras LX7's on there now, so honestly more than enough light for anything. Why I didn't buy cheaper lights and better filtration is beyond me, I'm a tech junkie.

I've been very interested in the Triton method. Problem for me is I don't have or have room for a fuge, which they say is recommended.

 

[mcgyvr]

Were you having nutrient problems?..
If plagued by high nitrates or phosphates then your plan is a step in the right direction..
iMO save the money on the skimmer upgrade though..yours is just fine.

 

[Uncle99]

With no sump your export ability is weak, weekly water changes of saltwater made with zero TDS RODI water is required for a balanced export.

I find water changes (while boring) an easy key to a thriving reef tank.

Your water must be stable, on point to NSW values, consistent, and include all those major and minor elements that get used up. Water changes do this without the potential for overdosing.

I am old school, 6 buckets a week, every week, more than 25 years, every 5 years, tear down and rebuild.

I have no sump, just rock, and skimmer, an ATO, and two aqua clears, one for carbon, one for GFO

Nothing fancy, great water, great light......that's what works for me.

 

[Jmunk]

With no sump your export ability is weak, weekly water changes of saltwater made with zero TDS RODI water is required for a balanced export.

I find water changes (while boring) an easy key to a thriving reef tank.

Your water must be stable, on point to NSW values, consistent, and include all those major and minor elements that get used up. Water changes do this without the potential for overdosing.

I am old school, 6 buckets a week, every week, more than 25 years, every 5 years, tear down and rebuild.

I have no sump, just rock, and skimmer, an ATO, and two aqua clears, one for carbon, one for GFO

Nothing fancy, great water, great light......that's what works for me.

I have a sump. I have an internal skimmer with a sump.

 

[Jmunk]

Were you having nutrient problems?..
If plagued by high nitrates or phosphates then your plan is a step in the right direction..
iMO save the money on the skimmer upgrade though..yours is just fine.

Yep, algae problems. Nothing crazy or anything that took over the tank, but there's hair algae scattered a bit. Honestly if the tank wasn't so old to where it can kinda sustain itself it probably would be worse.

Really? Protein skimmer is ok? Would the algae scrubber help?

 

[mcgyvr]

Really? Protein skimmer is ok? Would the algae scrubber help?

No skimmer is really that much better than any other....Its almost never worth the cost to upgrade..

An algae scrubber can help in some cases but I cant say it would in yours based off the info so far....

IMO sufficient rock/surface area for bacteria is most important and if you were light on that then your best bang for the buck may be improving that..

Water changes of course are proven to be useful.

 

[Uncle99]

I have a sump. I have an internal skimmer with a sump.

Perfect! Sorry missed that in your Post.



So,really likely not an export problem, but your water change schedule is too long allowing pontentially larger changes in water chemistry which should be minimized.

The adding back what's used methods will work, but for me, getting all the components in the right ratio and stable makes the WC just easier, and maybe safer (or a least for me) as overdosing is not possible.

You could just automate the WC...yes...yes...I am definitely thinking in this direction.....just two cents from an old man...

Instead of one 30g WC, could you do 15g every two weeks or better yet, 10g weekly?
The more the frequency of replenishment, the more "stable" water chemistry is, while ranges are important, stability is key.

 

[Jmunk]

No skimmer is really that much better than any other....Its almost never worth the cost to upgrade..

An algae scrubber can help in some cases but I cant say it would in yours based off the info so far....

IMO sufficient rock/surface area for bacteria is most important and if you were light on that then your best bang for the buck may be improving that..

Water changes of course are proven to be useful.

Hmm. Maybe I could add the algae scrubber and probably like, double my live rock in there. Obviously I'd introduce it slowly. I could probably add more sand as well. Think that would set me on the right track?

 

[Tastee]

My tank is only 12 months old, so bear that in mind for what I have to say (-:

Do you run an ATO?
If not that is the first thing I would invest in. Stable salinity is the first thing I would get sorted.

Do you run dosing pumps?
If you want to limit water changes, then adding Alk, Ca, Mg and the myriad trace elements is a must. I personally run the 3 part Aquaforest system.

If you want to keep WCs to a minimum then you must have stable parameters. You also need to test your water regularly to understand how your tank is travelling. When you are sure they are stable you can back off the frequency but until then this is your only way to understand the tank. By the time you notice the animals are not happy it is too late.

I have just got on top of my GHA issue which came about due to a) adding all my livestock quickly (planned) and b) overfeeding when we went away for a week (unplanned). During this phase I changed a little over 10% every 3-4 weeks (every 2 weeks initially). Prior to starting to add the bulk of the livestock and going away we had no algae problems and I was changing water less frequently. I will keep up monthly WCs for now, but if I feel the tank is stable in 6 months or so will be happy to reduce the frequency. I currently test my water weekly, bi-weekly any time I am adding livestock and for a while whilst they settle in. When it stabilises I will go down to fortnightly.

Good luck!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[mcgyvr]

Hmm. Maybe I could add the algae scrubber and probably like, double my live rock in there. Obviously I'd introduce it slowly. I could probably add more sand as well. Think that would set me on the right track?

Maybe...
If you go with clean/dry rock you can add it all at one time..
And if using dry/well rinsed sand you can do the same there too..
No need to worry about lots of dead organics/potential elevated ammonia levels if doing that..

Personally I'd hold off on the algae scrubber and just increase the amount of surface area for bacteria..
Its amazing what having sufficient live rock/surface area can do.. Bacteria does most of the work in our tanks..
Skimmers/scrubbers/reactors,etc... are all totally optional equipment and overall not overly effective.. They can certainly help but IMO many times they are just more work than anything else..

 

[Jmunk]

Maybe...
If you go with clean/dry rock you can add it all at one time..
And if using dry/well rinsed sand you can do the same there too..
No need to worry about lots of dead organics/potential elevated ammonia levels if doing that..

Personally I'd hold off on the algae scrubber and just increase the amount of surface area for bacteria..
Its amazing what having sufficient live rock/surface area can do.. Bacteria does most of the work in our tanks..
Skimmers/scrubbers/reactors,etc... are all totally optional equipment and overall not overly effective.. They can certainly help but IMO many times they are just more work than anything else..

I was planning on adding live rock, if I did add more rock (which I will do), is there any benefit adding dry rock/any harm (other than just taking it more slowly) in adding live rock?

 

[mcgyvr]

Dry rock is just far cheaper and less likely to have nuisance stuff come with it...
Dry rock will quickly become live rock..

Live rock can be added all at once assuming its sourced locally and kept wet..
If shipped to you then it needs to be cured outside the main tank then added a few weeks later..

 

[Jmunk]

Dry rock is just far cheaper and less likely to have nuisance stuff come with it...
Dry rock will quickly become live rock..

Live rock can be added all at once assuming its sourced locally and kept wet..
If shipped to you then it needs to be cured outside the main tank then added a few weeks later..

Ok, that was the plan anyway. Drive to the local fish store and pick up some rock. I guess if I do that (40 min drive to the store) I can just add it all at once?

 

[nozleman]

If you can add marine pure balls or plate/blocks in over flow or if add sump put in there! Works really well for bio filtration

 

[Jmunk]

If you can add marine pure balls or plate/blocks in over flow or if add sump put in there! Works really well for bio filtration

Yeah, not sure why I never gave these really any thought. I think for now though, I'm just gonna start with a bunch more rock and sand.

 

[RioReefr]

I don't mind spending the money if it'll get the tank looking right.

Water changes will solve all your problems imo, so why not check into something that will do automate your water changes. There are several out, but this is a good video....

APEX Dos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CbiWhhCHKQ


BTW, adding more rock could actually be detrimental to your tank if not well established (at least 1 year old) live-rock because it will still be leeching phosphates. I think sand will do absolutely nothing or almost nothing.

Additionally, I had good success with Seachem Purigen and using GAC. Those two products do well at absorbing dissolved solids out of the water column.

One more thing, a couple of months ago I got a Lawnmower Blenny. Its an algae eater and I have been pleasantly impressed how well he keeps the sandbed and rocks clean of algae. An ugly fish, but peaceful and has been a wonderful additional to my CUC.