enough light ??

Kentsreef

New member
Hi Folks
I'm kind new to these reef tanks, I have had a mostly fish only tank for about 5 years. recently I moved up to a 55 gallon and put a T-5 light on top. its 216 watts
my question is this light sufficient to grow most LPS and SPS corals. I have asked at the fs and I get maybe or give it a try ?
what's the real answer ?? what are my limits ???

Thanks.....
 
LPS you're probably ok.

SPS nope, need more light.

How many T-5 bulbs do you have and how many watts each.
 
I have about that amount in Power Compacts (PC) lighting with a similar (four 65W 50/50) array 260W. I've kept soft and LPS successfully. I've not been sucessful (Long-term) with SPS. Now one time, I've been able to grow an acropora frag from 3" to over 8" before it crashed but for the most part I've had overnight failures of SPS in my mixed tank. I agree with Edwin and wouldn't mix SPS in there unless you increased the light quantity.

Another theorized reason not to mix SPS and softies is that some softies tend to slime (A LOT) when distressed. This slime might be enough to take down an SPS coral.
 
you may be able to keep a montipora cap.

I do have a couple of SPS, that are a Cap type and I am fine with it, But then again I have 96watts of PC over a 12g nano and they are about 6 inches from the light.
 
Kentsreef -

That was very similiar to the setup I had on my old 55G. I was able to keep digitata, some acros, montipora cap and so on just fine under the 215watt T5. If you have single reflectors for each bulb, I would try keeping some simple SPS to see how it works. Then gradually move to harder to keep SPS.

Minh
 
I have a 4 bulb Teklight (2 aquablues and 2 blue+) and I'm able to keep montis (cap, digis, and encrusting), mille, and a slimer. This is all I've kept, so they're easier, lower light demanding corals. I've never had MH, so I can't compare growth, but everything grows and my montis grow really well. Too bad I don't have a good camera to show growth.

What kind of reflectors and ballast do you have? I'm assuming these are HO T5s.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8828238#post8828238 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Nu2SW
LPS you're probably ok.

SPS nope, need more light.

How many T-5 bulbs do you have and how many watts each.

:rolleyes: And you know this for fact because....?

-Justin
 
With only 18w more.....

With only 18w more.....

I can keep MOST acropora on the sand, and ALL montipora on the sand, and LPS goes without saying ;) And I believe my tank is probably deeper than yours at 20" high.

sideshot55g11-22-06.jpg


So if I can do this with only 18w more, you can keep SPS successfully at least middle of the tank and up, some that high wont even be necessary. But as a buddy here says it is but only one value in the "trifecta" that needs to be implemented for success with stonies.Light, water quality, and FLOW.

-Justin
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8829158#post8829158 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Justin74
:rolleyes: And you know this for fact because....?

-Justin

Hey dont roll your eyes at me......:rolleyes:


Because that didnt seem like enough wattage, I have 260 watts for PC's and I cant keep SPS even near the top, because Ive been told not enough light. So less wattage, Make sense not able to keep them. Everyone i asked always says gotta have MH for SPS, Especially the higher end stuff.
 
260 watts is what Alex had on his tank and he kept some very colorfull acros and monti's. But it was on a 30 gallon.

Your assumption would hold more weight if PC were the same as T5. But with a reflector T5 is twice the light that a PC is, if not more. Depth over 6-12 inches can be the limit for a lot of flourescents, with T5 and an individual reflector that limit gets pushed to about 24+". So now the depth is established the amount will need to be as well, 216w can give you a very beautifull mixed reef.

-Justin
 
hmmm interesting

WOW.....thats insane....

Im getting T-5's ... LOL i should of asked that for my xmas present
 
It is insane. But clearly it is not just the lights, this guy was using alot of german equipment with alot of their technique Im sure. Should be a testiment to excellent husbandry skills moreso, but again, a real possibility with these lights.

-Justin
 
I hole heatly agree with Justin. I think you will be just fine wiht most SPS. However, if this is your first time entering into the SPS world, I would start with montipora. Try a cap or two, and even a digi or two. See how they do, and how they color up. I started keeping SPS with a 55w PC and 2x24w T5's. I started with montis, and then a couple of acros. I've eventually upgraded to 5x24w TEK T5's over the main tank, and I've had some real positive results....even keeping a clam under it..

here is a pic that is about a month or two old...I've since switched salts, and have had a lot of new growth...
ft1106.jpg



Another thing to keep in mind about keeping SPS is that there is a whole lot more to keeping SPS than just lighting. They require you to keep you water parameters every good...that is very low nutrients, and you will need to have a system to keep your alkalinity and calcium up, as SPS are Alk. and Ca. hogs. You will also need to insure that you have enough water movement in the tank...I would say that 25x is a bare minimume, and 40x would be more desireable...although there is a lot of debate on that topic as to what the min./max. water flows are.
 
thanks guys for all the info... I feel better about the t-5 now sounds like they will do what I need :). my water is in good shape. my 30g was very stable and that I have moved it over to the 55 it went through a cycle but its ok now. I do have to work on the cal..... I think I will go spend some of my christmas money and get me some coral.....
 
You probably have enough light to keep the lower to medium light demanding SPS.......If you catch the SPS bug, and want to keep just SPS you will probably want to get into the more finickier brightly colored stuff, you may need to add a couple of bulbs....but you won't really know until you try. SPS not only require the light....but good flow.....and great water.......if your other two are good, then a lack in light won't "kill" them, but you "may" not have the best colors or growth. As Justin has shown there are some killer T5 tanks that blow others with MHs out of the water, but I think these guys have few more watts than you do currently......More watts just increases your odds at success rather than push that limit. Try what you want, and if you experience browning and can't get them to color up by moving to different locations(higher), then you will need to add a couple more bulbs......

I went from 150MH to 250MH for this exact situation a couple of months ago....only I had too low of a wattage halide instead of T5s. The main difference now, I can grow anything in any location in the tank, rather than just up on the top of the rocks under the lights. What it comes down too: having more options and easier to do. For instance, I have been able to buy a lot of brownies and force color back into them with the amount of light I have where it would take twice as long or longer to get them to color up with less wattage. T5s aren't my personal favorite for this application,(SPS), and like the bulb options and overall color and intensity of MH compared to T5...(IMO T5 light looks washed out)......but T5 is a viable option for someone wanting to get into SPS......I don't think however that there are "that" many hardcore full blown all LE T5 tanks around, but perhaps it hasn't been around enough for those peoples tanks to fully grow out........Ill just say, in SPS only tanks, I don't think they are the average type of lighting used......I still think the SE MH bulb is reigning champion there still.....heck, DE bulbs are still a minority also which is what I have......but then again so is 2 part supplementation instead of a Ca reactor also. Time will tell I suppose if T5s will be as common for SPS tanks as MHs have historicaly been.

I have 692 watts over my tank currently....but the wattage number is just a ballpark number, what is the important factor is intensity.......Thats why T5s and MH work for SPS.....focused, intense lighting. PAR numbers are a better reference for discussing quality of lighting produced.
 
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