Epic Gold/Yellow/Orange Hammer

Dartolution

Dartolution

New member
I have been on the search for a beautiful yellow/gold/orange Euphyllia ancora for quite a while when I found this one offered by a reputable online vender, and WOW did they deliver!

I received this coral this morning with UPS, great shipping condition, good temp, and with some extras!

This is the coral acclimating now:
FullSizeRender_23.jpg

And the picture taken from the vender when expanded:
IMG_0739_1.jpg


The colors on this piece even out of the tank and under a flashlight are incredible.
Just totally blown away and had to share with you guys!

:mixed:
 
ugh. I have bought no joke 10 or more of these over the past year. I have since given up. GL, and I really mean that!
 
That is a beauty and I wish you luck with it. I broke down and bought a really nice wall hammer and it was beautiful for about 3 months then went downhill fast and died. I said that I'd never get another wall again but this time I mean it.

I just got a branching gold tip hammer and it's amazing I just can't get the colors to come out in my pictures :hammer:
 
10? That is quite a lot...
I have bought 2. The other that I purchased was a branching yellow/green variety.
Didn't hold up well.

I hear a lot of complaints about people being able to keep wall euphyllia of any kind alive for any length of time. I'm not sure why this is. Pick a specimen that doesn't have radial damage or receding membranes , and be careful when acclimating. Don't blast with light or flow.

They also benefit from an iodine based dip when you receive them.
And if damaged areas happen baste with lugols solution. Usually does the trick for me.
 
That's a really beautiful specimen. I had a gold hammer that didn't open from day 1 and eventually died even though I dipped it in iodine. However, my green wall and branching hammers are doing well after initial lengthy treatment with iodine. GL with yours.
 
Thank you.
24 Hrs in the tank so far and getting good PE.

I worked for a LFS for close to 5 year throughout college. During this time we would import a variety of species directly from various locations. When we did, the euphyllias that arrived banged up, damaged, or improperly packed would require extensive iodine dips, and blowing. They would develop brown jelly, and required frequent removal of dead tissue. I would literally take the coral, using a siphon and turkey baster, and blow dead tissue off in the holding tank while siphoning it out.
Then take the coral and put concentrated lugols, straight out of the bottle on the dead/dying tissue.
8/10 this would result in saving at least some of the coral. the other 2 times the coral was just to far gone or damaged from shipping.
Occasionally these would require fragging immediately upon arrival.
After handling thousands of these corals its taught me quite a bit. Though this pales in comparison to the big wholesalers out west.

Once its fully acclimated and Ive moved it to its permanent home i will snap some pictures.
 
Update with Pics

Update with Pics

So, I have an iPhone6+ and its not the best at taking photos with accurate colors under blue lighting.
I had to touch up the photo in photo editor to get it as close to what it looks like in person as possible.

Heres a pic and a video of it in motion.

FullSizeRender_28.jpg


KIPvxw4YuaA

https://youtu.be/KIPvxw4YuaA

Not sure why the video isn't in HD yet?
It was recorded in 1080P.

My lighting isn't the same as the venders, which I know why. My fixture lacks UV LED and Violet LED diodes. I will be upgrading most likely to a AI Hydra 26 or two soon so that I can get the maximum color out of these corals.
While the hammer isn't the exact same color as in the venders photo I am still VERY VERY happy. Its a brilliant orange/gold in person. And with just the royal blue diodes and ATI BLUE+ T5s the orange color is intense! :)
 
Thanks! So far so good. Great PE. Tissue is intact, no broken areas, or recession of overlapping membranes. Euphyllia seem to do well in my tank anyway.
 
I think you will be successful since you worked with corals quite extensively. All your corals look good and healthy.
 
Thanks!
I also just ordered two 39W ATI True Actinic T5's to replace the Blue+ bulbs I have to see if this makes a difference with coloration.

I have plenty of LED's supplementing the 450-460nm range, plenty of daylight 6500K and 3700K, green and red LEDs for aesthetics. I need something in the violet/UV range.
Since the ATI True Actinic peaks at 420nm Im hoping this will give off the flourescence I am seeking.
 
You actually need to get in the 10k, 14k even 20k. Go to ATI's website and they have an explanation of what is best and what each variation does.
 
Dartolution said:
Thanks!
I also just ordered two 39W ATI True Actinic T5's to replace the Blue+ bulbs I have to see if this makes a difference with coloration.

I have plenty of LED's supplementing the 450-460nm range, plenty of daylight 6500K and 3700K, green and red LEDs for aesthetics. I need something in the violet/UV range.
Since the ATI True Actinic peaks at 420nm Im hoping this will give off the flourescence I am seeking.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't put more than 1 actinic on.
 
Well, its a experiment to see what the differences are.

I believe the real change is going to be in the replacement of some of the diodes I currently have.
Ditching the green(cyan) and 660nm reds for some violet 420nms, and changing out a few of the Warm whites for 10K, and a few others to UV 395-400nm diodes.
 
Theres a thread on here I have posted recently on about modifying the MarsAqua.
I made an order with ebay not long ago for:
(10) 20-25K LEDs
(10) 395-400 nm
(10) 410-415 nm
(5) 460-465 nm

I will be swapping out some of the warm whites, reds, greens, and cool whites.
 
Do you also remove the lenses? I heard that increases the coverage area. If so by how much dose it increase. I've got one over my 40b and about 6" on each side are shaded which isn't bad but might be nice to have more coverage to the sides. I also noticed yesterday the green and red lights reflecting on the sand. I never noticed it before hearing about it here.

What would the cost be to do the upgrade in parts and labor? I it easy to remove the lenses and if I don't like it can they be put back on.
 
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