I have been plaqued with this nice red stuff called cyano bacteria. For about a month ive been trying everything that everyone has told me to do. But for some reason i cant beat this stuff. I have added more powerheads so that i can get more flow into the tank but no luck... They told me to turn the lights off for days at a time and no luck... I dont know what else to do if anyone has any other suggestions i would truely appreciate it...
Eye Sore
- Thread starter airjoe33
- Start date
kau_cinta_ku
New member
what are your nitrate and phosphate readings?
are you using rodi water for waterchanges/ topoff?
are you using rodi water for waterchanges/ topoff?
Avi
Premium Member
Well, the best thing to do is to increase the frequency of water changes that you've been doing. I'm curious about which kind of protein skimmer you're using on the tank. Also, is there a refugium going in your sump? You note your nitrates read zero, but you don't mention your phosphate readings. If you don't test for those, you ought to and if they are elevated, even marginally, get yourself a couple of reactors for a tank of the size of yours and run a good phosphate reducing medium, like Rowaphos, through them. You might want to run them all the time, even when there is no cyano-infestation.
I wouldn't normally suggest this for a new tank, but if you increase the amount of water changes, your skimmer's working well and it's adequate for the amount of water in your system, you are growing Chaeto or some other macro-algae in your sump, etc. then get a product called Chemiclean, which is specifically for the purpose of killing cyano and use it strictly according to instructions. This will not address the cause of your cyano-problem, but it will, at least, slow it down temparily and stop it from effecting your coral, if you have any.
But, even if you do try the Chemiclean, you should continue to try to address the cause of the cyano and prevent it from getting what it needs to proliferate in your reef.
Don't get discouraged...You'll figure it out and resolve the problem so you can enjoy your tank.
I wouldn't normally suggest this for a new tank, but if you increase the amount of water changes, your skimmer's working well and it's adequate for the amount of water in your system, you are growing Chaeto or some other macro-algae in your sump, etc. then get a product called Chemiclean, which is specifically for the purpose of killing cyano and use it strictly according to instructions. This will not address the cause of your cyano-problem, but it will, at least, slow it down temparily and stop it from effecting your coral, if you have any.
But, even if you do try the Chemiclean, you should continue to try to address the cause of the cyano and prevent it from getting what it needs to proliferate in your reef.
Don't get discouraged...You'll figure it out and resolve the problem so you can enjoy your tank.
JPagliai
New member
I don't know if you have a place to put something like this, but I have used ChemMat to help control cyano when it became a real problem in my tank. It's something like a polyfiber sheet that you let the water pour over in the sump. My sump/refugium is a converted wet/dry trickle filter, so I have the perfect place for it. I suppose you could also lay it over a piece of egg crate. I get it from ThatPetPlace.
This is only a temporary solution, though. You really need to figure out the root of the nutrient problem in the tank.
This is only a temporary solution, though. You really need to figure out the root of the nutrient problem in the tank.
Avi
Premium Member
Sometimes it's very difficult to determine where the cause specifically lies. The zero nitrate reading does suggest that nitrates aren't the problem, but the zero phosphate reading (I somehow missed that earlier) aren't really determinative of zero phosphates. It isn't rare when the phosphates show up as zero in tests when, in fact, it's an unwanted micro-algae....or cyano...outbreak that keeps excess phosphates appearing in the water column as zero and at the same time sustaining the micro-algae or cyano. This could be what's happening here.
So, sirjoe...test the RO water that you're using for phosphate before it's placed into your tank. If it's zero, then obviously your water source isn't the problem. Other possibilities are overstocking and its associated overfeedingor a tank that isn't thoroughly cycled, a ...When did you set up the tank, airjoe, and what's in it? Oh, and what skimmer is on the tank?
So, sirjoe...test the RO water that you're using for phosphate before it's placed into your tank. If it's zero, then obviously your water source isn't the problem. Other possibilities are overstocking and its associated overfeedingor a tank that isn't thoroughly cycled, a ...When did you set up the tank, airjoe, and what's in it? Oh, and what skimmer is on the tank?
I'mRisenAquaRat
Member
How old is the tank? Cyano is another part of new tank growing pains. Give it some time.
shag26272
New member
I had the same problem, what I did was buy some warner marine PhosAR and put it in a stocking and throw it in my sump by my skimmer output, I also cut back my photoperiod. The cyano is now gone and instead of cleaning the glass every day , I clean it about once every 4 days.
Avi to answer your question i have a yellow and blue hippo and naso tang in there a copperband two clowns and watchman and few stars and a cleaner shrimp. The tank has been set up for about a year and half now so i guess its kinda new but i would assume that its established enough. Im not sure of the brand or anything on the skimmer its just the one that came on the sump. I went to go get water today and had them test it and it was zero so pretty sure it isnt my water that im getting. Lookin into getting my own RO maker.
Avi
Premium Member
After a year and a half, while a little cyano here and there isn't the end of the world, it is too long a period of time to be getting that "break-in" cyano that passes naturally, like a diatom outbreak.
I think after all you've written about the tank, airjoe, that the water source is good and you're doing just about everything you should be doing. So, IMO, the source of your cyano outbreak, which is apparently more serious than just a passing thing, is that you have excessive phosphates. The cause of that seems to be...possibly....a combination of overfeeding and a skimmer that's less than effective. This is only applying some of the info, and not gauaranteed to be the answer.
Seven fish. or so, with a minimal number of inverts, is a 150-gallon tank is hardly excessive and so, since your source water is good and you don't see any traces of nitrates, I think it's the phosphates that are supporting that cyano growth in your tank and the phosphates aren't showing up in testing because they are being depleted in the water column efficiently by the excessive cyano itself, hence...the overgrowth. That, together with the probability that the skimmer isn't really an efficient one for the size tank that you have, since it came with the sump and those generally aren't particularly great ones, are resulting in your problem. That's my take on it anyway.
I'd suggest that you use the Chemiclean according to instructions to clear the tank up of the cyano...it works in one day without side effects...but at the same time, increase the frequencey of the water changes, cut back a bit on feedings and think about getting a high-quality skimmer that's rated for something like 230-gallons or more. I think that would end the problem.
I think after all you've written about the tank, airjoe, that the water source is good and you're doing just about everything you should be doing. So, IMO, the source of your cyano outbreak, which is apparently more serious than just a passing thing, is that you have excessive phosphates. The cause of that seems to be...possibly....a combination of overfeeding and a skimmer that's less than effective. This is only applying some of the info, and not gauaranteed to be the answer.
Seven fish. or so, with a minimal number of inverts, is a 150-gallon tank is hardly excessive and so, since your source water is good and you don't see any traces of nitrates, I think it's the phosphates that are supporting that cyano growth in your tank and the phosphates aren't showing up in testing because they are being depleted in the water column efficiently by the excessive cyano itself, hence...the overgrowth. That, together with the probability that the skimmer isn't really an efficient one for the size tank that you have, since it came with the sump and those generally aren't particularly great ones, are resulting in your problem. That's my take on it anyway.
I'd suggest that you use the Chemiclean according to instructions to clear the tank up of the cyano...it works in one day without side effects...but at the same time, increase the frequencey of the water changes, cut back a bit on feedings and think about getting a high-quality skimmer that's rated for something like 230-gallons or more. I think that would end the problem.
Avi
Premium Member
Chemiclean can be ordered from lots of Internet vendors if you can't find it locally. You can try
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps/ps_searchItem.aspx?IdCategory=&SearchText=boyd
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...n=PROD&Product_Code=CHEMI-CLEAN&Category_Code
...But, it's available at other sources, too.
Another thing that I would suggest is to get a phosphate reactor like this one, but there are others....
http://www.marinedepot.com/PS/ps_Vi...ne__Specialty_Phosphate_Reactors~vendor~.html
and fill it with a good quality phosphate removing medium like Rowaphos. All it takes is a small water-pump that pushes about 100-115gph, although you'd need two reactors for a tank the size of yours. These can be hung on the side of the sump. They make the most efficient use of the phosphate removal medium and it would probably help alot.
As for the skimmer, I would use the second skimmer that you have. I think it's a good idea to have a skimmer that rated for a significantly bigger tank than the one that it services, but if you have the room having a second skimmer will should make a significant difference.
Don't worry, airjoe, we'll lick that cyano.
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps/ps_searchItem.aspx?IdCategory=&SearchText=boyd
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...n=PROD&Product_Code=CHEMI-CLEAN&Category_Code
...But, it's available at other sources, too.
Another thing that I would suggest is to get a phosphate reactor like this one, but there are others....
http://www.marinedepot.com/PS/ps_Vi...ne__Specialty_Phosphate_Reactors~vendor~.html
and fill it with a good quality phosphate removing medium like Rowaphos. All it takes is a small water-pump that pushes about 100-115gph, although you'd need two reactors for a tank the size of yours. These can be hung on the side of the sump. They make the most efficient use of the phosphate removal medium and it would probably help alot.
As for the skimmer, I would use the second skimmer that you have. I think it's a good idea to have a skimmer that rated for a significantly bigger tank than the one that it services, but if you have the room having a second skimmer will should make a significant difference.
Don't worry, airjoe, we'll lick that cyano.
Last edited:
Avi
Premium Member
There was a problem with those links, but let's see if it works this way...By the way...it's made by Boyd and it's not the Chemipure, it's the Chemi-clean:
http://www.marinedepot.com/PS/ps_searchItem.aspx?IdCategory=&SearchText=boyd
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...n=PROD&Product_Code=CHEMI-CLEAN&Category_Code
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps/ps_searchItem.aspx?IdCategory=&SearchText=reactor
http://www.marinedepot.com/PS/ps_searchItem.aspx?IdCategory=&SearchText=boyd
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...n=PROD&Product_Code=CHEMI-CLEAN&Category_Code
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps/ps_searchItem.aspx?IdCategory=&SearchText=reactor
Avi
Premium Member
Well, the lights are relevant to the growth of the cyano, but once they're done in by the light starvation, they'd reproduce once the lights are on again if the nutrition that they are getting in the first place continues to be made available.
So, measures like applying Chemi-clean and temporary light starvation are useful for a short-term effort, but the other water-quality-related measures which deprive the cyano of sustenance are what to shoot for, long term.
So, measures like applying Chemi-clean and temporary light starvation are useful for a short-term effort, but the other water-quality-related measures which deprive the cyano of sustenance are what to shoot for, long term.
