Fire Need Help!!!

[janderson8]

Well as the thread states I had one of my VHO End caps go up in flames lucky I was home and able to remove power. No water was on it and the end cap just blew up. My Ballist is a 440 Watt ARO and what I need to know is sence I am going to buy new end caps and bulbs is it possable to run T5 lighting with that ballist???

THanks JAson

 

[Russ Braaten]

The Hello Lights site said you really can't. Here is their answer to the question.

*** FAQ:
Q. Can I run T5 bulbs on the ARO Model 4LX ballast?
A. Simple answer: Yes, the ARO VHO ballast will "fire" T5 lamps. However, T5 lamps are high performance lamps and requires strict operating conditions for lamp performance and reliability.
Starting: Proper starting and operation is crucial for lamp life and performance. One important parameter is starting - the lamp is designed to be started using a program start - this is an accurate sophisticated controlled starting with proper filament heating with precise amount of time before ignition voltage is applied to the lamp.
Operating Current: Lamp operating current must also be controlled to tight specifications for performance and reliability.
We do not recommend the use of ARO VHO ballast to be used with the T5 lamps. Yes, it will fire the lamp as with many other ballasts but this does not mean that the lamps are operating to manufacturers specifications. Many ballast manufacturers claim that their ballast "works" with T5 when in fact a dedicated ballast specifically designed is a must, particularly for the T5 lamps!

 

[janderson8]

Russ Thanks alot

 

[scott0615]

The FAQ brings up an interesting question - IceCap ballasts are "supposed" to fire a T5 @ 85 watts vs. 56. Does this shorten bulb life or cause fires???? I know that URI has T5's in production; does anyone know what ballasts they recommend?

 

[VCoo71]

the icecap ballast has both soft start protection and end of life protection.....which T-5's need theres a few other ballasts that do the same....triad being a cheaper option
they all reccomend running a fan to cool the bulbs if your going to overdrive them...bulbs should last around a year

charlie

 

[herpchat]

You all are trying to scare me from this with fires to your lights.

Are there any safe lights?

 

[VCoo71]

electricity and saltwater.......i think that says it all!!!! nothing will conduct a current like saltcreep

a lotta wire nuts and tape......and then some more tape

with the endcaps i think you have to keep any splashing/bubbling down to a minimum

charlie

 

[scott0615]

This is exactly why I have always stayed away from "here's the wires, endcaps, & bulbs, go home and put it together". This story is all toooo familiar. The frustration of why the hell is that new bulb not working or sparks!, what the >>>>!!!! I just like the idea of a manufacturer that puts it all together themselves. I guess it just makes me feel better to have someone else to blame?!?!?!

 

[VCoo71]

Ahhhh the great demise of CSL and the birth of Current....altho they are one in the same

it is always someone elses fault....just couldnt help myself!!!!

charlie

 

[scott0615]

Word on the street is Current is in financial trouble...certainly evident by the customer service. Just FYI!

 

[captbunzo]

I'd recommend you look toward workhorse ballasts for an inexpensive alternative. Or perhaps the Korean alternatives Charlie mentioned a while back that are supposed to be better choices.

Anyhow, like you are leaning, this is a good excuse to upgrade to T5.

 

[janderson8]

Yep,

And I dont have any one to blame my light have been working for over a year it looks as if the insid of the endcap mealted and started the fire.

 

[Youngsilver]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8072829#post8072829 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by herpchat
You all are trying to scare me from this with fires to your lights.

Are there any safe lights?

HAHA are there any safe cars?? If used properly yes

 

[SeanF]

I wouldn't doubt that Current USA is in trouble. I sold 6 of their Orbit fixtures when they came out and out of 6 everyone burnt up a ballast inside of 6 months. I thought that was odd so I decided to check things out and it seems that some idiot engineer that designed their fixture had the fan come on when the white lights come on and not the actinics. So your actinic ballast is sitting their cooking when the white lights are not on.

So I thought I would be a nice guy and tell their rep at a show about how I had figured out what the problem was and he told me that instead of them going in a making a quick fix in production I should tell my customers that they need to take their brand new light out of the box and switch the light bulbs. Needless to say I have never sold another Current anything out of my store.

 

[JR719]

Great,
Now I'm going to have to take off the hood, pull out the bulbs, clean the sockets and figure out a way to make them totally waterproof. I thought since the endcaps had that rubber gasket that fits around the bulb, that did the trick. Is there somewhere else that moisture gets in?