First clowns
- Thread starter ugluk
- Start date
calebjk
New member
also look for ich and birth defects. if a clown TR (tank raised) clown was raised in a tank with poor water quality then it will be missing bands, or it could be deformed, i've seen clowns with overbites and stuff like that from this.
Also, it's a good practice to have the lfs feed the fish before you purchase it. Many fist are already stressed and starving before they get to the buyers house. If they are eating healthy that gives you a head start and better chance of keeping it alive. i learned this the hard way when i started with marine.
And, the Ocellerus should be fine to cycle you tank if they are healthy, clowns are generally hardy fish.
Also, it's a good practice to have the lfs feed the fish before you purchase it. Many fist are already stressed and starving before they get to the buyers house. If they are eating healthy that gives you a head start and better chance of keeping it alive. i learned this the hard way when i started with marine.
And, the Ocellerus should be fine to cycle you tank if they are healthy, clowns are generally hardy fish.
Slakker
Premium Member
Please don't advise people to cycle their tanks with live fish. This causes the fish unnecessary stress and discomfort and can kill them. This is essentially placing the fish into a toxic environment and should be avoided if possible.
Definitely look for signs of disease on the fish you purchase. Increased slime coat, small white spots, white stringy feces, and heavy breathing are all bad signs.
A common birth defect in Captive Bred Ocellaris is bent or deformed gill plates. My first pair of fish (also Ocellaris, both appeared healthy at the store) turned out to be sick, and the little male has deformed gill plates and seems to be having a bit of a tougher time than the female. I have nothing to link his difficulties to these deformities, it could be a million other factors, but just an observation I've made.
Also a great idea to see them eat at the LFS, often times even if your fish end up being sick, if they're eating you'll have a much easier time getting them healthy again.
And, one of the more important things...don't let the LFS talk you into ANYTHING. If you're not comfortable with a purchase, don't make it. Wait to find the fish you really want.
Also, quarantine, quarantine, quarantine. I didn't QT my fish and it ended up being three times as much work to set up an emergency QT tank and transfer them once they started showing symptoms. It's crucial to QT all new fish for at least 6 weeks to observe them and if necessary to treat them.
Hope this helps!
Definitely look for signs of disease on the fish you purchase. Increased slime coat, small white spots, white stringy feces, and heavy breathing are all bad signs.
A common birth defect in Captive Bred Ocellaris is bent or deformed gill plates. My first pair of fish (also Ocellaris, both appeared healthy at the store) turned out to be sick, and the little male has deformed gill plates and seems to be having a bit of a tougher time than the female. I have nothing to link his difficulties to these deformities, it could be a million other factors, but just an observation I've made.
Also a great idea to see them eat at the LFS, often times even if your fish end up being sick, if they're eating you'll have a much easier time getting them healthy again.
And, one of the more important things...don't let the LFS talk you into ANYTHING. If you're not comfortable with a purchase, don't make it. Wait to find the fish you really want.
Also, quarantine, quarantine, quarantine. I didn't QT my fish and it ended up being three times as much work to set up an emergency QT tank and transfer them once they started showing symptoms. It's crucial to QT all new fish for at least 6 weeks to observe them and if necessary to treat them.
Hope this helps!
Slakker
Premium Member
Adding a table shrimp for about a week will start the cycle. Remove it after a week and the bacteria's got a foothold and can start reproducing. Also just adding liverock will cycle a tank to some extent, and adding a bit of food every day until ammonia/nitrites read 0 is, IMO, the best way to cycle a tank.
Ugluk, you're off to a fantastic start already. Keep us updated, and post some pics when you get the little ones
Ugluk, you're off to a fantastic start already. Keep us updated, and post some pics when you get the little ones
I am off to a fantastic start and I have to say its because of all the things that I have learned from all of you. Without the knowledge I was able to get on a million subjects like rock, equipment, bio-load, livestock, clean up crews etc. I was able to become very knowledgable about the correct way to start a saltwater tank in a short period of time saving me money and aggravation and my fish their lives. Thanks to everyone, the aquarium community is a very good one.
Back to the fish though. I want to buy a mated pair so I am thinking that I should get two of the healthiest looking fish I can that are about the same size. Would this be correct?
Back to the fish though. I want to buy a mated pair so I am thinking that I should get two of the healthiest looking fish I can that are about the same size. Would this be correct?
Tang Salad
Algae skeptic
Hey Ugluk-
You're off to a good start.
As for making a pair, it depends on what the LFS has in stock. If they have a large group of clowns together all of varying sizes, then pick the healthiest of the largest and smallest. Yes, 2 different sizes would be better. It will help them sort out dominance sooner.
If all the fish are all roughly the same size (adolescents) then pick any two of the healthiest/liveliest.
You're off to a good start.
As for making a pair, it depends on what the LFS has in stock. If they have a large group of clowns together all of varying sizes, then pick the healthiest of the largest and smallest. Yes, 2 different sizes would be better. It will help them sort out dominance sooner.
If all the fish are all roughly the same size (adolescents) then pick any two of the healthiest/liveliest.
