First ocellaris fry attempt - any help greatly appreciated!

alaska clowns

New member
I'll ask my questions first, then I'll give you more info below if you're interested in knowing/reading. Again, thanks so much for any help!

1. My salinity is at 1.024 today (day 2 or 3) and I have no nitrite according to my test kit. Should I lower salinity further to 1.021? If so, when should I raise it?

2. I have some ammonia, should I change some water with parent tank water, or should I keep things the way they are and add a drop of Amquel? Since PH is low, I understand this to mean that the ammonia isn't as toxic.

3. Could a water change be done with water from my tank instead of the parent tank? (the fry are from a friend's tank).

4. Does water change = tank water that has been adjusted to match fry water in salinity, temp and ph? If so, what's the best way to lower the PH of the tank water?

5. When should I decrease the photoperiod (it's been 24/7 up to this point).

THANK YOU!

Here is more info:

The clowns are an ocellaris pair.

12 hatched Saturday night, the rest Sunday night (accidental stray flashlight beam delayed the hatch), so today is day 2 or 3.

By Sunday, only 3 of Saturday's hatch survived.

Sunday night, we probably added around 50 more (estimated).

Parent tank is at a friend's house; we moved the fry to my house Monday night.

Monday night, they looked terrible, I could tell many were perishing - doing the death spiral - Tuesday morning, only 6 were alive. The dying looked like the description I've read about fry that are starving, however, there were plenty of rots in the water beginning at the time from which the fry were added to the tank (also tank water tinted with nanocl. rot. diet).

This morning, Wednesday, I have 4 fry.

TANK: The tank is a small cube that holds around 2 gallons (maybe my first big mistake?). I think I have it filled to 1.5 gallons.

I had the temp. set at 80, but I unplugged it to keep it around 75; I was thinking that delaying metamorphosis to beef them up a little first sounded like a good idea.

Ammonia badge says .05 ppm ammonia; API test kit says 1ppm.
0 nitrite
7.5 PH

I've added 1 drop amquel plus each morning/evening since Monday night.

Salinity started out with parent tank water at 1.027; I gradually decreased over the last 2 days to 1.024

I have two airstones turned VERY low. Started out with one airstone, but added the second Monday night, wondering if maybe there wasn't enough oxygen in the tank due to heavy rotifers.

The small cube acrylic tank I'm using is one of the ones that has an LED lamp on an arm attached to the tank. I've had the tank lit 24/7 to give ample eating opportunity. I have also placed a small PC refugium light up high above the tank, just to ensure there was enough light. All sides of the tank are blacked out with black plastic.

I've siphoned detritus from the bottom of the tank each day.

FOOD: I'm feeding the fry L-strain rotifers, and I'm feeding Rotifers the Rotifer Diet from Reeds (Nanocloropsis). Since yesterday, I've been pulling out a jar of rots from the culture bucket, adding rot. diet, spirulina powder, and selcon - aerating and letting them eat for at least an hour, and sometimes several hours, then feeding the fry. I'm tinting the fry tank water green with rot.diet.
I realized Monday that my rotifer count in the fry tank was 40/mL - YIKES! I'm wondering if this had anything to do with my fry troubles. I have since strained out some rots, but added more nutritious (I think) rotifers.

I've been working for a week to get my own phyto culture going, but it'll probably be another week before I can use it to feed to the rotifers. That's going to be cutting it real close with my bottle of rot. diet!

Did I forget anything? I know the situation for this batch is bleak, but hopefully I can learn a lot this time around and have more success in the future. And I think my husband hopes I can learn to do better with the fry using less time :o
 
I'm a beginner too, but I will share my experience. My problem lies in getting the fry INTO the larvae tank. Once I get them in, I have yet to have one die. If the fry hatch in the 220 gallon tank, 3 Pajama Cardinals have a buffet before I can get them out with a flashlight/scoop method. I have had one hatch in the larvae tank on a tile, but I got my aeration wrong and most didnt hatch.

Anyway, I have had 3 hatches. 2 made it in the larvae tank, then 1, now 6.

I add parent tank water immediately before transferring fry (1.026) Heater is set to 82. Small airstone barely bubbling. Add rots (a bunch!) then tint the water green. Light stays on 24/7 for the first 5-7 days. I DO NOT change any water for at least 5 days. When I do, I use seasoned 1.020 water. Drip it in and suction using 3/16 tubing. I never add more rots, just Rotifer Diet from Reed. The fry tank basically becomes a rot culture.

I contribute my never adding rots or changing water due to the low number of fry.

I may be wrong, but I dont think you need to gut-load the rots anymore than feeding the RotiDiet or Nanno. And I dont believe you can have too many rots in the fry tank.
 
Thank you, hvacman250, for sharing your experience!
For the first 5-7 days, does your fry tank stay at 1.026?
Also, does "seasoned" water mean NSW that's been mixing for a long time, or water from parent tank that's been diluted?
Do you ever have ammonia or use an ammonia neutralizer?
Thank you for the water change idea!
 
It was late and seasoned was not the correct term. Just SW that has been mixing for at least 24 hrs.

Yes, the fry tank is the same as the parent tank, 1.026. Stays there until I start doing water changes with 1.020 water.

I never check for ammonia. After all my research (mainly reading thru all the big threads here on RC) the consensus is fry rarely, if ever, perish from ammonia. I dont remember which threads I read that in, but threads by rkelman and dazed ring a bell ??? Remember, I only have a few fry per 3 gallons of water, so ammonia probably isnt a problem for me yet.

Which brings up another point. Fry tank #1 was a blacked out 5.5 gallon tank, filled half way. #2 was a white 5 gallon bucket, half full. Current tank is same 5.5 gallon not blacked out, half full.
 
Thanks again for your replies, hvacman250

I lost my fry - I think it may have been because of the heater in the tank. I think it was too powerful for such a small amount of water - the water was the right temp, but there wasn't enough space for the fry to stay away from the heater itself. (I did have the light covered with electrical tape)

Do you use an airstone or just an airline tube? I also wonder if being so close to the microbubbles had anything to do with my problems.

How frustrating that must have been to be racing against those pj cardinals! We were dipping fry from a 75 that only has a royal gramma and a coral banded shrimp - the last fry we got out just about got it from the shrimp; I can't help but wonder how many he may have eaten, as he was very interested in what was going on!

This week we're putting a tile into the broodstock's tank!
And I'm looking for a larger fry tank.
 
Hopefully more experienced people will chime in, but I'm trying to help with what little knowledge I have. :crazy1:

Remember a 5 gallon bucket is cheap and works well. A 50 watt heater can be bought cheap. I use a small airstone and BARELY have it bubble. About as low as it will go before shutting off completely.

And I even chased the Cardinal away and tried to scoop them out. I guess the sight and movement of live fry puts them into a frenzy. I watched them eat 50+ at least. After 15-20 minutes, I just gave up.

Then I put in a tile where they laid...so they laid on the other side of the rock :) Basically, I had to totally surround their rock with tiles (5 total) After about 15 minutes of trying to move a tile (I had it WaterWeld'ed down) they gave up and laid on it. My advice...lay more than one tile:)
 
Back
Top