New lps frags - 1 day not doing well

[Zpmada]

Picked up some lps frags. They looked much better in the store. Now the hammer looks the worst (front right most). Duncan also looking bad (back left). Other two are grape and blasto and could be better. My tank (Elos 70) is about 1 year old. I have the kessil ap700 set to 7% intensity (most blue setting). MP40 pump set very low (two dots) to lagoon. There is a refugium with cheato and filter sock. I've since removed the filter sock because I don't see any copopods in my tank at night with a flashlight and pumps off (I do see copopods in the fishstore water) the store water salinity was 1.024. My salinity swings between 1.027 and 1.026. My temp is 73.5, alkalinity 7.7 dkh, ammonia, nitrate and nitrite all 0ppm. I did a big 50% waterchange day before putting new coral hoping to get everything where it needs to be. My tank started pretty sterile a year ago with bleached dry rock and only Caribbean live sand. For months I've had a royal gramma, 2 clownfish, damsel, and they are fine. I added cerith snails and nassirius snails and they seem ok. Not sure why my lps looks terrible. Here is last night before light went out:

This is in the morning when lights first came on:

Notice brown (dead tissue?) On front right frag. Is there anything I can or should be doing?

I spent about 6 hours acclimating the coral replacing 5ml of water in their container with my tank water every 30 minutes until salinity matched. Then I kept them in their store containers overnight to monitor for any hitchhikers. And put them in the following day.

 

[griss]

They are definitely not looking good. I'm not sure I'm understanding part of what you said, "Then I kept them in their store containers overnight to monitor for any hitchhikers." Do you mean you didn't put them in the tank after acclimating? Were they in the containers overnight with no circulation or heat?

From the parameters you posted, alkalinity is a tad low. Salinity is at the higher end of the recommended range. You might want to dose nitrate as we no longer strive for zero nitrate or phosphate. Here's a handy chart for what is the norm for parameters today.

 

[Zpmada]

They are definitely not looking good. I'm not sure I'm understanding part of what you said, "Then I kept them in their store containers overnight to monitor for any hitchhikers." Do you mean you didn't put them in the tank after acclimating? Were they in the containers overnight with no circulation or heat?

From the parameters you posted, alkalinity is a tad low. Salinity is at the higher end of the recommended range. You might want to dose nitrate as we no longer strive for zero nitrate or phosphate. Here's a handy chart for what is the norm for parameters today.
View attachment 32412946

Yes I kept them in containers with no circulation. I wonder if that did it? I didn't think it would be a problem for 8 hours since people ship coral overnight but maybe the shipping movement is enough circulation in those instances?

The tank heater doesn't come on in the summer and it stays at room temperature. The containers were in the same room and I floated them for 30 minutes just to be safe.

 

[griss]

Yes I kept them in containers with no circulation. I wonder if that did it? I didn't think it would be a problem for 8 hours since people ship coral overnight but maybe the shipping movement is enough circulation in those instances?

The tank heater doesn't come on in the summer and it stays at room temperature. The containers were in the same room and I floated them for 30 minutes just to be safe.

I'm not 100% on them being in the containers overnight was the issue. What is your room temperature? Most corals that are shipped are done so with either heat packs or cold packs depending on the weather.

 

[Zpmada]

I'm not 100% on them being in the containers overnight was the issue. What is your room temperature? Most corals that are shipped are done so with either heat packs or cold packs depending on the weather.

Room temp is 73-76F. We have a newborn so the AC is on all the time set to 73F. Tank is 73.5F with no heater or chiller.

 

[Reefing102]

The tank itself is running a little cool. Generally I try to maintain about 77-78

With that said, the hammer appears to be dead. Looks like it may have got brown jelly disease.

The other one in the top back left, I don’t have enough detail to really see what if anything may be wrong, but I don’t think that’s your Duncan. Your Duncan appears to be the bottom left (which looks like it may still be adjusting to the tank).

As mentioned, we don’t want 0 nitrates or phosphates.

All is a little low but not “terrible” by any means.

My only other thought to add is your light seems to be set pretty low. Have you checked your par? Many LPS prefer right around 150ish par and low to moderate flow.

 

[Zpmada]

The tank itself is running a little cool. Generally I try to maintain about 77-78

With that said, the hammer appears to be dead. Looks like it may have got brown jelly disease.

The other one in the top back left, I don’t have enough detail to really see what if anything may be wrong, but I don’t think that’s your Duncan. Your Duncan appears to be the bottom left (which looks like it may still be adjusting to the tank).

As mentioned, we don’t want 0 nitrates or phosphates.

All is a little low but not “terrible” by any means.

My only other thought to add is your light seems to be set pretty low. Have you checked your par? Many LPS prefer right around 150ish par and low to moderate flow.

Appreciate your input and will slowly raise temp the next few days. I intentionally set light low as part of acclimating and will raise it slowly to finish at 35%

Would that mean I had brown jelly in the tank or the coral came with it and while stressed it appeared?

here is another angle (excuse the sticker from our toddler):

 

[Zpmada]

Appreciate your input and will slowly raise temp the next few days. I intentionally set light low as part of acclimating and will raise it slowly to finish at 35%

Would that mean I had brown jelly in the tank or the coral came with it and while stressed it appeared?

here is another angle (excuse the sticker from our toddler):
View attachment 32412953

 

[griss]

Until recently, I haven't kept LPS species so my knowledge of them and Brown Jelly Disease is a bit limited to memories from the late 1990s into the 2000s. However, I don't believe it has ever been positively identified what causes this disease. It's been speculated that it is bacterial and that it affects LPS corals that are damaged or stressed.

Here's an article I just found but haven't had the chance to fully read yet.

 

[Reefing102]

To add to what @griss has said, don’t blame yourself directly for Brown Jelly Disease (BJD). I’ve had LPS that have gotten it months and years after being in the tank.

Did the “grape” happen to look like a frogspawn coral? That last frag looks like it was also a type of Euphyllia (torch, frogspawn, hammer) and BJD can spread quickly from one coral to another. Neither currently look alive to me. Only what I believe is the Duncan and Blasto look to be alright.

 

[griss]

To add to what @griss has said, don’t blame yourself directly for Brown Jelly Disease (BJD). I’ve had LPS that have gotten it months and years after being in the tank.

Did the “grape” happen to look like a frogspawn coral? That last frag looks like it was also a type of Euphyllia (torch, frogspawn, hammer) and BJD can spread quickly from one coral to another. Neither currently look alive to me. Only what I believe is the Duncan and Blasto look to be alright.

Bolded by me...this^

 

[Zpmada]

I'm not sure what is what in my tank because there isn't much left anymore. In the store, I picked out blasto, hammer, Duncan, and grape/frogspawn. Not sure on the last one. The snails aren't very active either. I have new carbon in the sump. Not sure if I put too much carbon, or anything else I should or could do. Based on what I read, I should try not to spend hours / overnight acclimating and get them in the tank much quicker than I did. Hopefully there isn't some pollutant in there killing copopods/coral/snails but no effect on fish? Appreciate everyone's help.

I also want to note that I don't have a skimmer running and with my nitrate at 0, maybe I shouldn't bother setting one up?

 

[griss]

Let's take a step back and we'll figure this out together.

Did you buy this tank new or used?
- If used, do you know if copper was previously used to treat fish disease in the tank?

You stated the tank was setup about a year ago using bleached dry rock and Caribbean live sand.
- When you say bleached dry rock, what do you mean? Where did you source the rock? Did you or someone else soak it in bleach at some point or do you mean it was just white?
- How did you cycle the tank to establish nitrifying bacteria? Bottled bacteria, adding fish food, adding a fish or two and feeding them?

I would bring your temperature up as @Reefing102 mentioned. These are tropical creatures we keep and they are used to a bit higher temps. I keep my reef tanks in the 78-80 range. This could explain the snails being sluggish.

I also don't see much algae in your tank so, I don't think there's much for the Ceriths to eat. This is probably a result of the nitrate being zero and having chaeto.

Let's start with answers to these questions.

 

[Zpmada]

Let's take a step back and we'll figure this out together.

Did you buy this tank new or used?
- If used, do you know if copper was previously used to treat fish disease in the tank?

You stated the tank was setup about a year ago using bleached dry rock and Caribbean live sand.
- When you say bleached dry rock, what do you mean? Where did you source the rock? Did you or someone else soak it in bleach at some point or do you mean it was just white?
- How did you cycle the tank to establish nitrifying bacteria? Bottled bacteria, adding fish food, adding a fish or two and feeding them?

I would bring your temperature up as @Reefing102 mentioned. These are tropical creatures we keep and they are used to a bit higher temps. I keep my reef tanks in the 78-80 range. This could explain the snails being sluggish.

I also don't see much algae in your tank so, I don't think there's much for the Ceriths to eat. This is probably a result of the nitrate being zero and having chaeto.

Let's start with answers to these questions.

I bought the Elos 70 tank used and don't know the history of copper. It was dry and the glass was coated with dry Corraline so I filled the tank with water and vinegar and cleaned the glass very slowly over several days. Can't imagine copper would be in the glass after vinegar cleaning? Maybe in the rubber seams?

The rock are from my old 75 gallon tank that had no problem with lps. I never dosed copper with those rocks. I bought the rock 10 years ago. It was the dry caribsea rock and had no problem with coral. Eventually my rock was covered in purple coralline. The 75 gallon crashed after we moved and I took a break for a year or two.

During that break, I bleached the rock because I had many bristle worms, many were likely dead inside due to tank crash. So the rock smelled. I also wanted to try starting over without worms. I rinsed the rock and used dechlorinator.

The rock then dried for months, maybe a year because I was pretty bummed for a while about the 75 gallon tank crashing. The Elos 70 tank cycled for months with just food. After that, I got 2 fish and took it slow. A few months later added 2 more fish. It's been about a year with fish and I am trying to add coral and clean up crew.

I did scrap film algae off the glass and brushed the rock clean during a water change so it's looking clean now. This is my first tank without green hair algae. Although the rock gets coated and slimey so I'm trying snails.

 

[griss]

I hope I’m not coming across as accusatory, that is not my intent. I’m going to ask a lot of questions and my intent is to help figure this out.

The fact the used tank had coralline makes me lean towards no copper. Whomever had it, knew reefs and likely didn’t use copper.

The rock should be good as well based on what you’ve told me. Just to be safe, I’d test chlorine. But, I’d be interested to know more about the crash of the 75…what exactly happened?

I think with the LPS, you likely took too long acclimating and leaving them in the tubs overnight may not have helped. BUT, the difference in salinity between your tank and the LFS would have warranted a longer acclimation time.

 

[Zpmada]

I hope I’m not coming across as accusatory, that is not my intent. I’m going to ask a lot of questions and my intent is to help figure this out.

The fact the used tank had coralline makes me lean towards no copper. Whomever had it, knew reefs and likely didn’t use copper.

The rock should be good as well based on what you’ve told me. Just to be safe, I’d test chlorine. But, I’d be interested to know more about the crash of the 75…what exactly happened?

I think with the LPS, you likely took too long acclimating and leaving them in the tubs overnight may not have helped. BUT, the difference in salinity between your tank and the LFS would have warranted a longer acclimation time.

The 75 gallon tank was emptied and being moved and everything was in buckets and then brute container until the 75 was moved. Something must have died and I didn't see it in the container until it was too late. I'll work on a chlorine test, temperature and salinity. Appreciate the help.

 

[Reefing102]

I'm not sure what is what in my tank because there isn't much left anymore. In the store, I picked out blasto, hammer, Duncan, and grape/frogspawn. Not sure on the last one. The snails aren't very active either. I have new carbon in the sump. Not sure if I put too much carbon, or anything else I should or could do. Based on what I read, I should try not to spend hours / overnight acclimating and get them in the tank much quicker than I did. Hopefully there isn't some pollutant in there killing copopods/coral/snails but no effect on fish? Appreciate everyone's help.

I also want to note that I don't have a skimmer running and with my nitrate at 0, maybe I shouldn't bother setting one up?

For identification purposes, based on what I see and your description, this is what you have:

1. Frogspawn
2. Duncan
3. Blasto
4. Hammer

Both the frogspawn and hammer are commonly associated with Euphyllia however Hammers were reclassified as Fimbrophyllia. Regardless, they are both susceptible to BJD which from the pictures and your description, happened to both of them.

As already mentioned, I would bring your temperature up.

If you don’t have Nitrates or Phosphates, I’d consider either dosing them or feeding heavier. Feeding heavier may end up having unintended algae consequences though if food builds up and is not consumed by a clean up crew. Having Cheato is likely consuming a lot of your phos and nitrate. Given the low nutrients, I would not run your skimmer.

You also mention getting slime on your rocks. Is it a red slime like Cyano or more of a brown stringy slime that may have oxygen bubbles in it? If it’s the later, it may be Dino’s which is a different nuisance algae all together, and is usually best taken care of with a UV sterilizer.

Also as previously mentioned, I’d look at mapping your tank for par to ensure you have sufficient light.

While you likely have pods, you can always buy pods to boost your population, if you feel the need. Some known vendors are Reefs By Steele, Algae Barn, and Dinkins Aquatic Gardens.