First reef tank, LOVE ZOA'S, help me out with some advice!!

[vokrey09]

Starting my first ever reef tank. I want to keeping primarily zoa's (would love a zoa garden appearance). I have done a lot of reading online on the top but just want everyone opinions and advice on my specific tank scenario.

A few questions that I am struggling with are:
-Which of my current fish do I need to get rid of? Anything I should add (better CUC)?
-Do I need to be concerned with ca, alk, mg when starting out? Or will my weekly 10% wc replenish these levels (until colonies start growing).
-What are some easy zoa's you have had experience with that are on the cheaper side (that multiply quickest)
-Opinions on using Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer as a dipping method?
-Should I start to dose small amounts of kalkwasser in my ato?
-Should I continue running carbon in my filter?

Here is my story...

Switching from a 37gal FOWLR (running for about 8 months) to a 40gal breeder (no sump). Using the same powerheads, hob filter, hob skimmer, and 35lbs live rock.... all from the previous tank.

My current setup is:
40gal breeder
Fluval C4 HOB Filter
CPR BakPak 2+ Skimmer
TWO Hydor Koralia 425 Powerheads
35lbs live rock +40lbs of dry rock just added
20lbs of reef sand (no old sand was used from previous tank)
Tunze Osmolator 3155 ATO
36" Current USA Marine LED Light

Live Stock:
1 Yellow Tang
1 Six Line Wrasse
1 Melanarus Wrasse
2 Clowns
1 Blue Green Chromis
2 Peppermint Shrimp
About 10 snails
1 Brittle Starfish

It has been about 5 days since the switch, and everything has survived!
I went to my LFS yesterday and got a few frags to test out. I acclimated them last night and woke up the morning after and everything looked like crap! (2 days later and looking better now)
The frags were:
1 Green Hammer (died overnight)
Green Star Polys (finally came out since in the afternoon)
1 polyp of Darth Maul Zoa (was retracted for a while but has since came out)
12 polyps of Eagle Eye Zoas these are doing the best of everything)
3 different acan frags (green, red, and orange; these all look really questionable)
AND 1 orange mushroom (which is too small to really tell, looks ok)


My levels are solid (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate), temp is about 78. And the light is on an acclimate setting with 8 hours of light.

I am wishing that I only got zoa's now, definitely need to have some more patience. I am going to wait a few more week until I get any more frags for sure.

The good thing out of this is that I saw how cool the zoa's looked in the tank last night and I 100% want to start a strictly zoa tank with all different types.

 

[stingeragent]

Which specific light is that? Is it the orbit one with all the storm effects and such? I had one on my 55g and I can't remember the wattage but it was on the low side so that 36in fixture will be even less. My 20gal long reef is 96 watts with 4 t5 ho bulbs. I have some zoas but can't give you the exact name. I've had some that have covered a whole rock and some that haven't spread a centimeter since I got them. If your koralia powerheads are anything like the ones I got your gonna need more flow. I had 3 running in my 20L and it still wasn't much flow. Also, are you using RO/DI water? Starting out I don't think you should be dosing. I'd say get you some good quality test kits (don't ask me for brands cause I have the crap ones,lol), and see where "reef" levels are. Cal, Alk, MG , etc. I think a good rule of thumb is don't dose anything that you aren't testing for. My mushrooms seemed to do best on bottom in lower light, the zoas that have done the best are up at the top. Also, you'd be better off with a protein skimmer as opposed to the HOB

 

[jayball]

-Which of my current fish do I need to get rid of? Anything I should add (better CUC)? No comment.

-Do I need to be concerned with ca, alk, mg when starting out? Or will my weekly 10% wc replenish these levels (until colonies start growing).
Check your Ca Alk and MG. Then monitor Alk levels to see when you should start dosing.

-What are some easy zoa's you have had experience with that are on the cheaper side (that multiply quickest) That depends from tank to tank but for me my green lanterns(green eye/purple ring/green and yellow skirt) are the fastest. Anything ugly you buy will multiply faster than you can imagine.

-Opinions on using Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer as a dipping method? I do not use it but many do.

-Should I start to dose small amounts of kalkwasser in my ato? See above. When your Alk starts dropping daily then it is time

-Should I continue running carbon in my filter? More personal preference than anything. I do, many do not. It does help keep your water clear.

 

[ExpensiveHobby]

Starting my first ever reef tank. I want to keeping primarily zoa's (would love a zoa garden appearance). I have done a lot of reading online on the top but just want everyone opinions and advice on my specific tank scenario.

A few questions that I am struggling with are:
-Which of my current fish do I need to get rid of? Anything I should add (better CUC)?
-Do I need to be concerned with ca, alk, mg when starting out? Or will my weekly 10% wc replenish these levels (until colonies start growing).
-What are some easy zoa's you have had experience with that are on the cheaper side (that multiply quickest)
-Opinions on using Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer as a dipping method?
-Should I start to dose small amounts of kalkwasser in my ato?
-Should I continue running carbon in my filter?

Here is my story...

Switching from a 37gal FOWLR (running for about 8 months) to a 40gal breeder (no sump). Using the same powerheads, hob filter, hob skimmer, and 35lbs live rock.... all from the previous tank.

My current setup is:
40gal breeder
Fluval C4 HOB Filter
CPR BakPak 2+ Skimmer
TWO Hydor Koralia 425 Powerheads
35lbs live rock +40lbs of dry rock just added
20lbs of reef sand (no old sand was used from previous tank)
Tunze Osmolator 3155 ATO
36" Current USA Marine LED Light

Live Stock:
1 Yellow Tang
1 Six Line Wrasse
1 Melanarus Wrasse
2 Clowns
1 Blue Green Chromis
2 Peppermint Shrimp
About 10 snails
1 Brittle Starfish

It has been about 5 days since the switch, and everything has survived!
I went to my LFS yesterday and got a few frags to test out. I acclimated them last night and woke up the morning after and everything looked like crap! (2 days later and looking better now)
The frags were:
1 Green Hammer (died overnight)
Green Star Polys (finally came out since in the afternoon)
1 polyp of Darth Maul Zoa (was retracted for a while but has since came out)
12 polyps of Eagle Eye Zoas these are doing the best of everything)
3 different acan frags (green, red, and orange; these all look really questionable)
AND 1 orange mushroom (which is too small to really tell, looks ok)


My levels are solid (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate), temp is about 78. And the light is on an acclimate setting with 8 hours of light.

I am wishing that I only got zoa's now, definitely need to have some more patience. I am going to wait a few more week until I get any more frags for sure.

The good thing out of this is that I saw how cool the zoa's looked in the tank last night and I 100% want to start a strictly zoa tank with all different types.

How did the hammer die in one night? That doesnt sound right. Are you sure it wasn't just retracted?

I use the bayer dip for about 5 minutes when adding new corals, especially from a LFS. It can be a little harsh on zoas so go easy on the ratio.

I run an all zoa 8 gallon and the important thing to remember is that zoa like a nutrient rich tank meaning you can slide on water changes from time to time without worry. You should also feed them once or twice a week. i feed mine a combo of reefroids and cyclopeeze. The light you have is good enough for zoas as long as you have it running 100% and right on top of the tank. Don't hang it the light provided has very little par value past 12 inches

 

[vokrey09]

I'm not sure how it died over night, I wasn't sure if it was dead honestly. Googled some pictures of a dead one and it looked the same

 

[vokrey09]

How did the hammer die in one night? That doesnt sound right. Are you sure it wasn't just retracted?

I use the bayer dip for about 5 minutes when adding new corals, especially from a LFS. It can be a little harsh on zoas so go easy on the ratio.

I run an all zoa 8 gallon and the important thing to remember is that zoa like a nutrient rich tank meaning you can slide on water changes from time to time without worry. You should also feed them once or twice a week. i feed mine a combo of reefroids and cyclopeeze. The light you have is good enough for zoas as long as you have it running 100% and right on top of the tank. Don't hang it the light provided has very little par value past 12 inches

Do I need to use reef salt for a zoa only tank or does regular fish only salt work ?

 

[JJ650]

Do I need to use reef salt for a zoa only tank or does regular fish only salt work ?

Use reef salt. It will have the trace elements that softies need.

 

[coral acquisition]

For a 40gal, I think you have too much fish, especially the tang. They get pretty big and require a lot of swimming area.

I also read that you just added 40lbs of rock and sand. You might get a big cycle from your tank. I would not add any corals for now.

With my experience in zoas, they like dirty water, meaning, not too ,much water change. But that is my experience, you will have to see what your particular corals like no have a balance.

As for fast growing Zoas, in my experience, the eagle eyes, nuclear greens, purple hearted zoas, orange bam bams, captain Americas and purple deaths grew pretty fast.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[vokrey09]

For a 40gal, I think you have too much fish, especially the tang. They get pretty big and require a lot of swimming area.

I also read that you just added 40lbs of rock and sand. You might get a big cycle from your tank. I would not add any corals for now.

With my experience in zoas, they like dirty water, meaning, not too ,much water change. But that is my experience, you will have to see what your particular corals like no have a balance.

As for fast growing Zoas, in my experience, the eagle eyes, nuclear greens, purple hearted zoas, orange bam bams, captain Americas and purple deaths grew pretty fast.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks for the advice! I was thinking of getting rid of the tang, melenarus wrasse (he it too big I believe, and constantly stirring up the sand which I have already found inside a few polyps) and the chromis. I would like to add a fairy wrasse possibly. Do you think it would be ok to house the two clowns, the six line, and a fairy wrasse? Or just stick with the clowns and six line?

For flow, I have about a 33x turnover rate. Should I upgrade to a wave maker powerhead and then position one or both of the koralia 425s behind the rocks to prevent detritus from building up?

 

[hobineros]

My peppermint shrimp decide he wanted to eat up my 1 aiptasia (intended purpose) then start work on the frags of Z's and P's I had.... IMO, I'd ditch those 2 shrimp and get 2 cleaner shrimp.

 

[coral acquisition]

I've never had 2 clowns and a six line together. I know they can both be bullies. Someone might want to chime in on that.

I think for your flow, it really depends on your inhabitants, if they like it. I myself don't like a lot of flow, but then again, I just keep zoas and mushrooms.

As for the peppermint eating zoas, I think most shrimps and crabs will start munching on them if they get hungry.

 

[blasterman789]

Fastest growing Zoanthids I've had are Everlasting Gobstoppers. They are also amongst the hardiest. Because of their large size they can grow to grapefuit sized clusters in a short time. My colonies grew faster than Xenia once established, which was fine with me given the market for them. Strongly recommended for a bigger tank.

Nuclear greens and Purple deaths are actually Protopalythoa as I recall, just like gobstoppers above. Slower growing in my experience. Purple Deaths and Nuclear greens also will eat food that drops on them or drifts by. They tend to grow faster on sand beds because they uptake gravel in their bodies.

Green implosions are another type of common Protopaly, and to my annoyance often sold as Nuclear Greens to inexperienced reefers. Green Implosions, unlike Gobstoppers PDs and NG's will wander around your tank and start to become a nuisance like rhodactis mushrooms. Fine in a bigger tank where larger Angels are happy to browse on them, but can get to be an issue in smaller tanks.

True Zoanthids have the common dense, almost geometric colonial structure and much smaller heads than the Palys mentioned above. Too many varities to list....eagle eyes, dragon eyes, purple hornets, etc. While not a rule I've found more expensive varities tend to grow slower, and hence not good for starters (purple hornets).

Avoid overly fragged versions and stick to colonies of 5 or more that are growing healthy on plugs or rocks. Only experienced reefers with healthy growing colonies should risk single or double frags.

All varities like some nutrients in the water, and I've found most of them (particularly deep water zoas like purple hornets) don't like a lot of pH shifting or low pH in general.