First thread asking beginner questions....

[LLSTOW]

Hello everyone "“ First post here :bigeyes:. Get ready for a long one. First I'll describe my set-up and then I'll ask a couple (bunch) of questions.

Tank "“ I am planning a reef tank using my existing 55 gallon FOWLR. I have had this tank set-up for over a year with the live rock (probably to much in the tank but I'll move some of it to my refugium), one damselfish that we caught in Florida while on vacation, and a sub straight of small coral shells about two inches deep. My live rock has a hair algae problem that is covering a lot of the rock. I plan on removing the coral shell and using live sand as my sub straight. I'll remove the damsel when I get to stocking the tank.

Refugium "“ I just completed building my refugium. The total size is 13" high x 15" wide x 42" long. It has four divided compartments with water dams to control bubbles. The first compartment is 2" wide and filled with bio-balls. The second is 9" wide and houses my skimmer. The third is mainly 6" wide but also continues under the refugium for 20". This compartment houses the return pump and a small chiller pump. The fourth compartment is the refugium, which is 12 x 15 x 22 with a deep sand bed of three inches. The return pump is plumbed with three ball valve controlled outlets. One outlet goes to the main tank through a SCWD valve to form the wave maker, one to the refugium and one back into the fourth compartment. There is basicly one plumbed outlet with the return and refugium plumbed from it to control the water flow.

Ok"¦now I'm to my question part

1st "“ Should the flow from the main tank overflow box into the first compartment go all the way to the bottom of the bio-balls to avoid sound? I was also wondering if the flow should start at the top of the bio-balls and flow over them. Any known solutions to keep the sound down and allow the bio-balls to do their thing will be appreciated. I have egg crate at the top to hold the bio-balls in the compartment.

2nd "“ Would you guys give me a good clean-up crew description and numbers of critters to start on the hair algae problem and afterwards to keep the reef healthy? I was thinking of adding a Cole Tang along with the clean-up crew to help with the hair algae. Would the tang be a good idea?

3rd "“ What type of macro algae should I put in the refugium? I have read of so many types that I just don't know which to purchase. I've read that one type is great in one persons opinion and then that one is terrible in another's opinion.

4th "“ How deep should the sand be in the tank and in the refugium?

5th "“ How much light and for how long in the refugium? I think I read somewhere that it should be opposite of the main tank's lighting schedule. Is this correct?

I think that's all I have for now, but I'm sure I'll be back :lol:
Thanks in advance for the help. I want to get everything set up correctly before I start adding the reef inhabitants.

 

[jformani]

Are you using tap water for top offs? That could be a reason for the hair algae.

 

[Chris27]

1.) Ditch the bio-balls and just keep about 1-2 lbs of live rock for your bio-filter. The bio-balls are just too darn good at what they do, so your nitrates will be very hard to keep in check.

2.) Zebra Hermits are the best for hair algae, Turbo and Astrea snails are also good.

3.) Cheato is a good macroalgae, it won't go asexual like others, and is pruned easily.

4.) Sand depth depends, 1-2 inches in the tank is easy to take care of, and a remote deep sand bed (@6") in the fuge can be beneficial.

5.) The light can be run for 24 hours, others run it on a reverse cycle to help keep pH swings at a min.

Keep asking away - it's never a bad thing to be prepared when upgrading.

Good Luck.

 

[w16227]

1.) Ditch the bio-balls and just keep about 1-2 lbs of live rock for your bio-filter. The bio-balls are just too darn good at what they do, so your nitrates will be very hard to keep in check.

2.) Zebra Hermits are the best for hair algae, Turbo and Astrea snails are also good.

3.) Cheato is a good macroalgae, it won't go asexual like others, and is pruned easily.

4.) Sand depth depends, 1-2 inches in the tank is easy to take care of, and a remote deep sand bed (@6") in the fuge can be beneficial.

5.) The light can be run for 24 hours, others run it on a reverse cycle to help keep pH swings at a min.

Keep asking away - it's never a bad thing to be prepared when upgrading.

Good Luck.

+1 to the answers with some additions.....

1. Chris means use 1-2 lbs rock rubble in the area of the bioballs (not total) -- this will help break up the bubbles. There are many plans and recommendations around for how to silence you overflow box. The key is to get the right air mixture to prevent gurgling. If you have a standpipe, most have to toy with the height and air inlet opening size to fine tune (the small opening at the top of the standpipe).

2. No tang in a 55. Only the smallest will not be cramped - and most if not all will outgrow the tank. Algae feeds on nitrates and phosphates. Focus on the sources for these. Most common sources are overfeeding and source water. If you use tap water - get an RO/DI unit. If you have RO/DI - test that water to make sure the unit is properly functioning. Removing the bioballs may help as well, though do not remove all at once. Take them out slowly to let the tank adjust. Establishing a fuge will help a lot.

3&5--- chaeto is one of the best, but should be on a 12 hour on/off light cycle. Many use a single "daylight" CF bulb from home depot with great success (the "curly" bulbs). Runnign 25h is ok too - but you will get better growth with 12/12. Some of us have a different macro (caulpera) that should be lit 24/7.

4: Three inches is not a good sand bed depth. Shallow sand beds are 1"-2", and deep sand beds run 6"+. Anything in between does not provide the full benefits of either (and can be problematic).