First time DIY refugium 20 gallon long

J

Joyze1

New member
This is my first time building a DIY Refugium. I have read lot and lots of threads on this and have not yet found what I am looking for.


I have a 20 gallon long glass aquarium that I would like to make into the following setup skimmer->return pump<- refugium (in this order) for 46 gallon bowfront reef and am looking for ideas or anyone else who has done this. I have seen lots of layout but can't figure out the exact sizes of the baffles and what size to make the chambers (skimmer, return pump, refugium) so it does not overflow in case of power outage

Then I am not sure what size overflow to get? 300? 600? I would have 2 inlets, one for the skimmer and the other refugium.

or what size return pump I would need?

I have heard I could use aquarium sealant to bond glass and acrylic. Will this work good?

Please help???

Thank you

~Joy~
 
here's my 20g long sump...it maybe ghetto looking, but it's quite effective to say the least..all DIY!..

000_0235.jpg
 
I should make it smaller? I was not sure if I was going to need to add anything in the future. I was going to put a CSS125 in for the skimmer. So I may need to make that a bit bigger if I need to mod it. What would you recommend?
 
Look - I'm no pro, by any means...I'm actually in the process of designing/making my sump too, and let me be the first to say that I've changed my design 100x already b/c of all the advice I've been getting on this forum. As it turns out, I might end up going back to my original design.

But personally, I feel like the fuge area is the most important section for me, so I want that area to be the biggest. That way, I can grow as much cheato and pods as possible. I figure, the bigger that area is, the more of that stuff I can fit in it...

So my other sections I'm just making big enough to fit what I need to fit in it, with awith an extra inch or 2 in case I change something later on. But seeing that the only thing going in your Return section is the return pump...you're not gonna need all that much space in there. [see connecticut cichlids's pic above ].
 
I have revised my plans...
113750refugium_1.JPG


Jon you have some good points. Thank you.

I plan on using the CSS125 skimmer and the specifications for the in sump chamber is recommended to be 10 X 12. I made it 9 X12 if i have too I think I can us as a HOT if I need room for mods.

Do you think the baffles are ok at 1" apart?

Do you think 4" for the return pump is enough room? And what size pump would you recommend. I was thinking a Mag12?

It is hard to find examples of a refugium in the order I have this in, with the refugium on the end instead of the middle.

What do your original plans look like?

Thank you again.

~Joy~
 
Click Here to see my original post on this:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=755060

I think the mag12 might be a bit much. I was planning on a 9.5 or 7, but now I might make that a 5...because I will have 2000+/gph flow in my tank when I finish my MJ Mods...

If I choose to go with the: SKIMMER --> REFUGIUM --> RETURN setup, then I will probably keep a Mag5 in there to lower the flow that will pass through my fuge. I want the water to be in there long enough to get the benefit of the macro algea. If, however, I go with my original design on the posted link, then I will keep a 9.5 or 7 and only send a portion of the return back into the fuge area.

The 1" baffles will be fine I think, that's what I was planning. My only issue will be whether I can fit my fingers in there to apply the silicone...;)
 
Oh, and as far as the 4" for the return section...it all depends on what return pump you choose. The Mag 7 or 5 is wider than the 9.5 and 12, so that will change your dimensions...

I would have your pump picked out, purchased, and make sure it fits into the area before gluing the baffles. And I'd add some space in case you change pumps at some point...
 
Just curious what kind of light (how many watts, etc.) is that light on your fuge? I was going to go with a PC fixture, but this looks much cheaper and might be a good option, if it's effective...

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6595064#post6595064 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by connecticut cichlids
here's my 20g long sump...it maybe ghetto looking, but it's quite effective to say the least..all DIY!..

000_0235.jpg
Click to expand...
 
The issue with the size of the return pump section is evaporation. If you've got an auto-top off system, it's not an issue. But if you don't, and you have that small of a return area, you'll be manually adding water twice a day!
 
Your thread was very informational. I don't know how I missed it.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6602014#post6602014 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jon770
I think the mag12 might be a bit much.
Click to expand...
I did think that at first but then did the head loss calculations on this site and this is what I came up with.

Head Loss Calculator

Vertical length in feet =9
Horizontal length in feet =6
Pipe diameter in inches =1"
Choose your pump: Mag12
Number of 90 degree elbows=1
Number of ball valves =2
Number of pipe exits =2
Number of pipe entrances =1

Total losses are 10.48 feet of head pressure, or 4.53 PSI with a flow rate of 539 GPH. Process took 60 iterations

Using the same numbers with a Mag9

Total losses are 9.92 feet of head pressure, or 4.29 PSI with a flow rate of 418 GPH. Process took 91 iterations.

It seems if I go with smaller PVC, it decrease the overall flow rate.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6602032#post6602032 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jon770
Oh, and as far as the 4" for the return section...it all depends on what return pump you choose. The Mag 7 or 5 is wider than the 9.5 and 12, so that will change your dimensions...

I would have your pump picked out, purchased, and make sure it fits into the area before gluing the baffles. And I'd add some space in case you change pumps at some point...
Click to expand...
Good idea, I looked at the sizes of the pumps (a mag12 (which is the biggest I think I would go) is 6.4" x 4.5"x 4.6") and think I will go with 5" for the return pump chamber instead of 4". and maybe add an extra baffle between the refug and the return for micro bubbles.

Any opinions?

Thanks again.
~Joy~
 
I posted a reply before I saw what 20 20 said. I don't have a top off yet and probably won't for a while. I think I would be better off putting my skimmer as a HOT if I can and the return pump area back to 8".....Then I can add heaters and stuff if I would like.

I will be building it this weekend. It won't be functional until next week as some of the supplies are on back order.

OH this is soooo confusing..

I would like to do this once and not have to redo it again.

All good point.

~Joy~
 
you might want to do like the person who posted a picture of theirs.... have the drain and skimmer section, then fuge, then return section after, instead of having the drain line split. seems like it would be more of a hassle the way your plans show.

to connecticut cichlids how did you set your auto top off up? i have one but its in my main tank right now, and im gonna build a sump but dont really understand how youd calibrate it
 
I didn't realize your tank was 9 feet above your sump...

Do you have a link to the head loss calculator?
 
Go to top of this thread and click on the HOME. It is listed on the left side in blue with other calculators.

As far as the 9 feet I had to make an aprox of all the vertical PVC coming off of the pump. I had some PVC going behind my LR for circluation. I could ditch that idea.

What is a good flow rate for SW reefs?

Thanks again
~Joy~
 
I would do the single baffle with teeth from the fuge to the return, rather than the 3 baffle system...unless you foresee a big micro-bubble problem in your fuge. I think the single baffle will be better for pod transfer. Keep the 3 baffles from the skimmer to the return.
 
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