First time drilling an aquarium questions

Gilby

Premium Member
My buddy and I are going to be drilling his tank to add an overflow and return. I would like to know if there is a thread or website that show a step by step way to do this. He has a 180 and I just need to know the best way to go about this. Do i need to drill 2 holes for the overflow? How many holes for the return? Do I need to use an overflow box or can I just use an angle PVC pipe?

This is obviously my first attempt at this so I just want to make sure we get this right. I need all the advice you can give me. thank you!
 
Search YouTube for Bulk Reef Supply's video on drilling holes, it is very helpful. They show you what tools, and how to do it. Just drill one return, and one drain based on how much GPH you want flowing. I would base the hole size off RC's drain size calculator. It's located on the main page.

The overflow box is a whole another ball game, and I don't have much knowledge on this part.

Good luck, and if you don't feel comfortable doing this I would highly recommend finding a professional to do it.

Also if you crack your buddy's tank I am not responsible :P
 
I've been researching an overflow system and have decided to go with beananimal's 3 standpipe system, sounds like it is pretty failsafe. I'm sure the number of holes all depend on what type of overflow system you choose, but I think I will be drilling the crap out of our tank. Take a look at the site, there is some good reading on there. I didn't realize how much noise can be a factor as well, so I am confident this will be a successful system. Now I've got to go watch those youtube videos....Good Luck!
 
You definately want to know what you want as far as overflow styles go before drilling. The drilling part is easy enough, but, once done there's no going back (short of replacing the pane) if you discover you could have done it better. I went with the Beananimal 3 drain style in an outside drain box. In my ignorance I didn't consider how much noise getting the water to the drain pipes could be if not properly designed, lol. I did some researching on drain styles and then jumped in and did it, modifying as I went, and, not realizing I was making some serious mistakes. In my tank I have a small overflow on the back wall that feeds water through two 1.75" holes into a large drain box outside the tank that houses the 3 drains. Well, the water drops from the inside overflow to the two holes, then down again to the standpipe and it sounds like Niagra Falls...mind you, the 3 standpipes themselves are silent...it's the water getting to them from the double falls I created that makes all the noise! I will have to re-do the stand pipes and make them taller so the water doesn't have to fall so far before it drains...

This is just something I thought I'd share to illustrate that you need to fully consider each step of your plan before jumping in and doing it...and having your plan critiqued by the experts here could save you loads of time, money and frustration (I should follow my own advice here!) Anyway, good luck with your build!
 
First thing you need to know is, is the glass tempered? Are you drilling the back, or the bottom? Bottom will most likely be tempered, sides, doubtful but possible. YouTube a vid on tempered glass and find the easy test using polarized glasses and a computer or a smart phone screen. I ma putting together a 120 that is 48" long, and I am using the C2C BA design as well, I like silent...kinda like ninjas.
 
I drilled two holes in the back and didn't put a box over it. I used a PVC elbow and put a strainer over the top to keep things from getting sucked in. To change the water level you just tilt it to the side a bit. I put kind of standpipe one the outside of the tank to keep it quiet.
 
Anyone know how foolproof the polarized lense/LCD test is? I have a 75 gallon TopFin that tests as non-tempured glass on the sides and bottom.....but it does have a sticker on the bottom.

How likely is it that the test failed vs. the bottom of a 75 gallon tank is not tempered?
 
As someone else mentioned above, check out BRS. They have good prices on their bits, and bulkheads also. They also have a decent guide on how to drill it.

Also, I highly agree with the poster above regarding the beananimal style overflow system. When I upgraded from my 75g to my 90g, I went with this type of system, and it is amazing. Almost totally silent, and technically fail proof. Do some googling, and plan out exactly what you want to do before you just start drilling holes.
 
You might check with the manufacturer regarding if the tank is made with tempered glass or not. My tanks were Perfectos/Aqueons from Petsmart so I googled Aqueon and found that they do temper the bottoms only on tanks 37g and larger. They don't do the sides.
 
I just drilled my 120 gal for the first time this weekend. I really wished I would have done it sooner. Very simple and easy if you take your time.

I purchased the Glass-Holes overflow kit and return kits. The instructions were very thorough and slightly humorous. They even have videos to show you how to go about it on their website. The kits come with the saws and templates for drilling locations. I was really impressed with their customer service as they answered all of my questions and my package was shipped within two hours of ordering.

My best advice is.... Location, location, location.
The hardest step in the whole process is determining where the holes are going to go.
I wish I had more tanks to drill. It was that easy.
Good luck.
-JASON
 
Anyone know how foolproof the polarized lense/LCD test is? I have a 75 gallon TopFin that tests as non-tempured glass on the sides and bottom.....but it does have a sticker on the bottom.

How likely is it that the test failed vs. the bottom of a 75 gallon tank is not tempered?

I have used it 3times and it worked for me
 
Anyone know how foolproof the polarized lense/LCD test is? I have a 75 gallon TopFin that tests as non-tempured glass on the sides and bottom.....but it does have a sticker on the bottom.

How likely is it that the test failed vs. the bottom of a 75 gallon tank is not tempered?

Test the bottom with the polarized/lens technique. If it goes dark, then you k ow the bottom is for sure. Then you know what you are looking for on the sides.
 
The thicker the glass the more forgiving it is. Drilling a 10 is way more challenging than drilling a 40.

X2

My first drill was a 10g. lol :(

Just let the drill do the work. Be patient and no not force anything and you will not get any chips :D.

Good diamond bit holds its weight in gold also.

You can practice on a piece of tile if you want.
 
If the drill has a clutch gear setting, set it to the lowest setting so if it binds up it wont break the glass. As mention above dont press down on drill, just let the bit do the work. Put some tape or towel so that the glass plug doesnt fall through.

Another tip is use a piece of plexiglass and drill a hole using the glass bit to cut through it. Tape it over where you want the hole on the tank and it will keep the bit from dancing around when you start. Also keeping a spray bottle or lots of water close to keep the bit cool and free of debris.
 
Test the bottom with the polarized/lens technique. If it goes dark, then you k ow the bottom is for sure. Then you know what you are looking for on the sides.

There's the rub -I tested the sides and bottom and both stay black when placed between the glasses and LCD screen.....but there is a label on the bottom of the tank warning not to drill.

I feel confident I'm testing correctly as I'm seeing the polarization effect upon turning the sunglasses (with and without the tank glass in between), but the fact that the bottom is seemingly not polarized despite the label is concerning me.....

Sorry for the newbie hijack!
 
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