Fish Death Help

[sloogan]

It is hard to tell from your picture of your test kit of what tube is for what test.

It looks like you have ammonia and nitrite. Those should both be 0. Poor water quality will cause fin rot.

I think you overloaded your tank too quickly and it is going though another mini cycle.


New tanks are tricky.

Just retested my nitrite is a tinge darker than baby blue, so for sure >0.25 ppm Nitrite. Ammonia 0 Nitrate 0 Kh 12 Calcium 400-500 PH 8.2-8.3 Phosphate still 2.0ppm.

 

[sloogan]

It is hard to tell from your picture of your test kit of what tube is for what test.

It looks like you have ammonia and nitrite. Those should both be 0. Poor water quality will cause fin rot.

I think you overloaded your tank too quickly and it is going though another mini cycle.


New tanks are tricky.

Just retested my nitrite is a tinge darker than baby blue, so for sure >0.25 ppm Nitrite. Ammonia 0 Nitrate 0 Kh 12 Calcium 400-500 PH 8.2-8.3 Phosphate still 2.0ppm.

 

[sde1500]

If you are testing nitrite your tank isn't cycled. Or the fish dying overloaded the little biofilter the tank had.

 

[TokiHacker]

If you are testing nitrite your tank isn't cycled. Or the fish dying overloaded the little biofilter the tank had.

That would have been my concern. Smaller tank (not 100 or bigger), new, and that is a lot of fish to go into a brand new tank with little to no bio filter. On top of that a tank that doesn't seem to be completely cycled since the nitrite was there PRE the adding of the fish. Food for thought.

plus the no quarantining is going to cause problems regardless unless the LFS has a rigorous quarantining process, but since the fish had ich I would go with a no on that one.

 

[sloogan]

That would have been my concern. Smaller tank (not 100 or bigger), new, and that is a lot of fish to go into a brand new tank with little to no bio filter. On top of that a tank that doesn't seem to be completely cycled since the nitrite was there PRE the adding of the fish. Food for thought.

plus the no quarantining is going to cause problems regardless unless the LFS has a rigorous quarantining process, but since the fish had ich I would go with a no on that one.

Just convinced the S/o to let me set up my 40 breeder. I have spare power heads and probably 2 pieces of 12 pound LR. As far as filtration goes what's the best for a QT carbon/charcoal is out of the question obviously any recommendations for a QT??

 

[hkgar]

I understand the space can be tight for adding a QT, but you really need to find a way to do TTM (search for it). Otherwise you are just playing Russian Roulette for disease (Ick) every time you add a fish. You mentioned that the Coral Beauty died from Ick. That means it is no in your tank and eradicating it means the tank needs to go fish-less for 72 day.

Best method is TTM and then about 2-4 weeks additional QT

 

[sde1500]

Just convinced the S/o to let me set up my 40 breeder. I have spare power heads and probably 2 pieces of 12 pound LR. As far as filtration goes what's the best for a QT carbon/charcoal is out of the question obviously any recommendations for a QT??

Won't need much for a QT tank filtration wise. If you aren't going TTM look into using chloroquine phosphate. Treats a great deal of problems and is safer than copper. Plus few fish have problems with it.

 

[sloogan]

Won't need much for a QT tank filtration wise. If you aren't going TTM look into using chloroquine phosphate. Treats a great deal of problems and is safer than copper. Plus few fish have problems with it.

only one banggai survived i gave it to the LFS. You think i could get away with a sponge filter in a 40 gallon tank or you think i would probably need a little more oomph. I purchased chloroquine phosphate or paraguard from seachem, any other medicines i should buy while i'm at it.

 

[HeadstrongRSS]

How long were the fish in there bags?
After you opened the bag up to drip acclimated them?

You really shouldn't drip acclimate a fish.

If the Salinity is different.. I use the "cup" method..

I float the bag for temperature... then open the bag... take a few cups of LFS water out... then add a cup of mine... then every couple minutes.. I take one cup out add a cup.. I do this for about 20 minutes and then drop the fish only into the tank..


There is a "sticky" at the top of new to hobby forum called "death in bags" posted by Sk8tr.

I strongly suggest reading that..

It explains why drip acclimating fish can be deadly to them.. and the reasons why (Ammonia builds up fast in the bag.... once you open it and expose it to fresh air


I'm truly sorry about your losses :-(
Personally it breaks my heart when any of mine die

Sent from my SM-S907VL using Tapatalk

Cosign this.

 

[hkgar]

only one banggai survived i gave it to the LFS. You think i could get away with a sponge filter in a 40 gallon tank or you think i would probably need a little more oomph. I purchased chloroquine phosphate or paraguard from seachem, any other medicines i should buy while i'm at it.

I use a 30 gallon for QT and for filtering a Aquaclear HOB filter with a sponge filter and bio media for filtering. The sponge and media should be placed in your sump for a few days so the develop the bacteria necessary. It is really just so I don't have to add rock to the QT, filters aren't necessary for marine tanks but bacteria is.