Mrs. Music
New member
Did you mention the SG of the QT?
Fish dying within hours in QT
- Thread starter adova
- Start date
adova
Premium Member
That is correct - TTM for 4 cycles, then 30 days of PraziPro and Chloqphine Phosphate and then 2 weeks non-medicated observation.
I had a velvet outbreak after introducing a clam and fighting conch so now I QT all inverts, rock, frags, etc. for 72+ days. I broke down the tank and started from scratch after the velvet.
adova
Premium Member
For the first batch, it was 1.025. For the second, I matched it to the LFS at 1.024
anthonys51
New member
and the fish still dying on you . might want to check other stuff then
QT is all about risk management. Most of us will not bring a new fish into a tank that has known disease, but we want to manage the risk of possibly adding a new diseased fish to a healthy tank. It's a one-way protection system: protect the DT from the new fish, not the other way around.
While I personally run a separate QT that is independent of the DT, I don't think people are taking unreasonable risks when they seed the QT with material from the DT. If they inadvertently introduced disease from the DT to the QT by doing so, wouldn't they have exposed that fish anyway after they moved it from the QT?
While I personally run a separate QT that is independent of the DT, I don't think people are taking unreasonable risks when they seed the QT with material from the DT. If they inadvertently introduced disease from the DT to the QT by doing so, wouldn't they have exposed that fish anyway after they moved it from the QT?
adova
Premium Member
CStrickland
New member
ammonia is nonlethal in the presence of Prime. I don't think that was the issue here. More likely something with gas exchange, or temp, or a fast-acting disease.
But anyway, I like these badges for qt: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41e7XCJ8QdL._SY300_.jpg
theyre like $5 and let you know at a glance if the ammonia is creeping up, well before toxicity. They are accurate with Prime too, they only show the non-buffered form.
But anyway, I like these badges for qt: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41e7XCJ8QdL._SY300_.jpg
theyre like $5 and let you know at a glance if the ammonia is creeping up, well before toxicity. They are accurate with Prime too, they only show the non-buffered form.
adova
Premium Member
Hehe - not quite. But I always have more to learn (hence this post).
anthonys51
New member
might be true, but most saltwater ranges from 7.8 to 8.4
so even if it drops to 7.0 ammonia would still be lethal to fish, but if it dropped that low in 3 hours you have a bigger problem then ammonia.
honestly none of us are ever really going to know why these fish died.
haven't we all had a fish living for months, even years that just died out of the blue one day. We can guess a reason why they died, even blame are crabs or brissleworms for killing it
i dont qt at all. i know your going to say i am crazy. the reason for this is i been in the hobby for 30 pus years, and many many years ago i noticed the fish i put into qt and those i didnt the kill rate was about the same.
i think its more about picking healthy fish, my lfs has 3 rows of tanks. he gets them in and puts them in row 1 , 2 weeks later moves to row 2, then 2 weeks later row 3. i will only pick fish from last 2 rows and will never buy a fish from a store that even has one sickly fish in the tank. i believe in giving them a good home with plenty of hiding spaces, picking the right tank mates, make sure the water quality is prefect, feed them good quality food and a variety .
now of coarse i am not telling people not to qt, just saying this system seems to work for me. even had a kole tang with ich get cured with garlic. I know garlic doesnt kill ich, but seemed to work for me
