fluconazole use
- Thread starter JVan82
- Start date
JVan82
New member
That's what I thought, just double checking. Will the algae be completely gone or will some need to be removed manually?
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Xxero
New member
I have found that as the algae dies off, tank inhabitants will start grazing on it. Usually within that 15 day period all signs are gone. If there is any remaining after that time, a soft bristle brushing would probably do the trick. I haven't had to do that though.
HTH :bigeyes:
HTH :bigeyes:
JVan82
New member
LeJeune981
New member
I've been debating trying this as well..my gha has been stubborn to say the least.. I'm starting to wonder if my rock is leaching..
And honestly don't want to to another whole system tear down and scrub.. 90 DT. 46 fuge. 250+ lbs live rock... it's an all day affair and super stressful.. or deadly to some inhabitants.. (lost a few hermits and snails and crabs last blitzkrieg...
Is the fluke (I'm not gonna try and spell it lol)
The same stuff I see advertised as fish meds?
And does anyone know how it effects cheato? My cheato is slowly becoming a ball of gha. Yet still packed with amph/copepods... so I'm hoping not to have to toss it and kill them all :-/
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And honestly don't want to to another whole system tear down and scrub.. 90 DT. 46 fuge. 250+ lbs live rock... it's an all day affair and super stressful.. or deadly to some inhabitants.. (lost a few hermits and snails and crabs last blitzkrieg...
Is the fluke (I'm not gonna try and spell it lol)
The same stuff I see advertised as fish meds?
And does anyone know how it effects cheato? My cheato is slowly becoming a ball of gha. Yet still packed with amph/copepods... so I'm hoping not to have to toss it and kill them all :-/
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Xxero
New member
HTH :bigeyes:
Xxero
New member
My only concern is that Reefers have been using Fluconazole mainly to eradicate Bryopsis. That's what I used it for, and it worked great with that 15 day treatment. But I have also heard that some Reefers experienced Cyanobacteria and/or Dinoflagellate outbreaks after the treatment, which makes me question what kind of shape their tank was in to begin with.
My tank was clean and virtually algae free whenever I used the Fluconazole, with only a small patch of Bryopsis. So my die off was very minimal, and I never saw any adverse effects. I'm concerned that those who have experienced the Cyano/Dinos afterwards may have had a fairly grungy tank to begin with, i.e.: Hair algae, Dinoflagellates, Turf algae, etc. If all of that was present in the tank at the time of dosing the Fluconazole, the large amount of die off may have been what led to the Cyano/Dinos afterwards. From what I witnessed, the Fluconazole is very potent. I watched the Bryopsis die and disintegrate within the first 3 days of treatment. I can't imagine what would happen in a tank full of nuisance algae. Maybe some other users of the product can chime in here with their experience.
Later down the road, my rocks started developing a stubborn Turf algae. Emerald crabs helped with this, but they weren't making much of a dent. I started dosing my system with Vibrant Reef Cleaner, and within 2 months, it looks like my rocks have been acid washed. It dissolved the Turf algae and it also killed off the small amount of Bubble algae I had in my tank. I'm wondering if this shouldn't be the road that you consider instead of Fluconazole? The Vibrant route is a much slower process, and you maintain your normal water change practices throughout the dosing period. I didn't see any noticeable change until about week 6, but the difference is amazing.
Here is the product. I found it on Amazon:
And here is more information on the product and the guys who developed it:
https://www.uwcmn.com/vibrant-liquid-aquarium-cleaner
HTH :bigeyes:
My tank was clean and virtually algae free whenever I used the Fluconazole, with only a small patch of Bryopsis. So my die off was very minimal, and I never saw any adverse effects. I'm concerned that those who have experienced the Cyano/Dinos afterwards may have had a fairly grungy tank to begin with, i.e.: Hair algae, Dinoflagellates, Turf algae, etc. If all of that was present in the tank at the time of dosing the Fluconazole, the large amount of die off may have been what led to the Cyano/Dinos afterwards. From what I witnessed, the Fluconazole is very potent. I watched the Bryopsis die and disintegrate within the first 3 days of treatment. I can't imagine what would happen in a tank full of nuisance algae. Maybe some other users of the product can chime in here with their experience.
Later down the road, my rocks started developing a stubborn Turf algae. Emerald crabs helped with this, but they weren't making much of a dent. I started dosing my system with Vibrant Reef Cleaner, and within 2 months, it looks like my rocks have been acid washed. It dissolved the Turf algae and it also killed off the small amount of Bubble algae I had in my tank. I'm wondering if this shouldn't be the road that you consider instead of Fluconazole? The Vibrant route is a much slower process, and you maintain your normal water change practices throughout the dosing period. I didn't see any noticeable change until about week 6, but the difference is amazing.
Here is the product. I found it on Amazon:
And here is more information on the product and the guys who developed it:
https://www.uwcmn.com/vibrant-liquid-aquarium-cleaner
HTH :bigeyes:
LeJeune981
New member
I will check into that vibrant...My only concern is that Reefers have been using Fluconazole mainly to eradicate Bryopsis. That's what I used it for, and it worked great with that 15 day treatment. But I have also heard that some Reefers experienced Cyanobacteria and/or Dinoflagellate outbreaks after the treatment, which makes me question what kind of shape their tank was in to begin with.
My tank was clean and virtually algae free whenever I used the Fluconazole, with only a small patch of Bryopsis. So my die off was very minimal, and I never saw any adverse effects. I'm concerned that those who have experienced the Cyano/Dinos afterwards may have had a fairly grungy tank to begin with, i.e.: Hair algae, Dinoflagellates, Turf algae, etc. If all of that was present in the tank at the time of dosing the Fluconazole, the large amount of die off may have been what led to the Cyano/Dinos afterwards. From what I witnessed, the Fluconazole is very potent. I watched the Bryopsis die and disintegrate within the first 3 days of treatment. I can't imagine what would happen in a tank full of nuisance algae. Maybe some other users of the product can chime in here with their experience.
Later down the road, my rocks started developing a stubborn Turf algae. Emerald crabs helped with this, but they weren't making much of a dent. I started dosing my system with Vibrant Reef Cleaner, and within 2 months, it looks like my rocks have been acid washed. It dissolved the Turf algae and it also killed off the small amount of Bubble algae I had in my tank. I'm wondering if this shouldn't be the road that you consider instead of Fluconazole? The Vibrant route is a much slower process, and you maintain your normal water change practices throughout the dosing period. I didn't see any noticeable change until about week 6, but the difference is amazing.
Here is the product. I found it on Amazon:
And here is more information on the product and the guys who developed it:
https://www.uwcmn.com/vibrant-liquid-aquarium-cleaner
HTH :bigeyes:
And I've also wondered the same thing when someone would mention an outbreak of something else after use..
I believe my war with gha is cause by my initial start up.. not knowing any better I started off with conditioned tap water (it never caused me any problems when I was running fresh water tanks) But i quickly learned about rodi and purchased my own...and have been a water changing fanatic since that day..
Honestly.. I'm not sure if I have gha or turf algea now..
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Xxero
New member
Disclaimer
Disclaimer
I believe that my algae issues have been rock related. From the start, it was all "cured" Fiji "live rock" purchased from a LFS, but I believe that it is the type that is shipped moist wrapped in newspaper. Then it sat in a stinky holding tank at the LFS for who knows how long?
I know that most seasoned Reefers prefer the "No chemicals" method to doing things (and I am one of those, too), but sometimes the proven products can really help get things back in shape. Once the worst of the nuisance is gone, then you can make the adjustments necessary to maintain it that way.
I have personally used:
* Chemiclean to treat an initial Cyano outbreak. Afterwards, I increased the flow in my tank, and I haven't had an outbreak since.
* Aiptasia X to treat Aiptasia. It works, but you still can't get to the Aiptasia that you can't see or don't have access to. I have since incorporated the help of Berghia Nudibranch, and the verdict is still out on these little boogers. Time will tell.
* Vibrant Reef Cleaner to treat the Turf algae. I'm honestly not sure how the Turf algae even got started, but the Vibrant product has done wonders. I have tried to increase the use of Chaetomorpha algae in my refugium to help absorb nutrients, but I see nothing wrong with the continued dosing of Vibrant to keep the Turf and Bubble algae at bay. The listed ingredients seem to resemble that of Carbon (vinegar/vodka) dosing.
In summary, I am all about prevention with proper routine maintenance in combination with aggressive nutrient export in combination with live critters that have a taste for nuisance algae, but I am also an advocate for the use of proven products to help get the uglies back under control. :bigeyes:
Disclaimer
I believe that my algae issues have been rock related. From the start, it was all "cured" Fiji "live rock" purchased from a LFS, but I believe that it is the type that is shipped moist wrapped in newspaper. Then it sat in a stinky holding tank at the LFS for who knows how long?
I know that most seasoned Reefers prefer the "No chemicals" method to doing things (and I am one of those, too), but sometimes the proven products can really help get things back in shape. Once the worst of the nuisance is gone, then you can make the adjustments necessary to maintain it that way.
I have personally used:
* Chemiclean to treat an initial Cyano outbreak. Afterwards, I increased the flow in my tank, and I haven't had an outbreak since.
* Aiptasia X to treat Aiptasia. It works, but you still can't get to the Aiptasia that you can't see or don't have access to. I have since incorporated the help of Berghia Nudibranch, and the verdict is still out on these little boogers. Time will tell.
* Vibrant Reef Cleaner to treat the Turf algae. I'm honestly not sure how the Turf algae even got started, but the Vibrant product has done wonders. I have tried to increase the use of Chaetomorpha algae in my refugium to help absorb nutrients, but I see nothing wrong with the continued dosing of Vibrant to keep the Turf and Bubble algae at bay. The listed ingredients seem to resemble that of Carbon (vinegar/vodka) dosing.
In summary, I am all about prevention with proper routine maintenance in combination with aggressive nutrient export in combination with live critters that have a taste for nuisance algae, but I am also an advocate for the use of proven products to help get the uglies back under control. :bigeyes:
LeJeune981
New member
I am the same as you... I don't like chemicals in my tank...unless very last resort...
I too have used chemiclean.. I had a pretty big cyano outbreak when fall hit..
I am currently running gfo and carbon dosing... yet I'm watching my algae grow by the day...
My rock has a story.. a portion of it was in my old lfs tanks for many many years... owner sold the shop.. new owner pulled all the rock out of his tanks... and tossed them in a Rubbermaid tote... got a rock shipment from florida.. mixed it in... well it was very infested with bristle worms (not really a problem in my opinion) But he dosed it multiple times with bristle worm X.. and let it sit...I got 100 lbs for 50 cuz he was having a hard time selling it... a few weeks later I stopped back in... the rest of the rock was still there.. same water.. same dead worms floating about.. I got the other 150 lbs for 50 bucks... and man did it stink bad!! But I was still cycling my 150 so the stinky rock helped the cycle along... amazingly some cup coral survived all of that...
But i believe alot of my issues is the rock as well... gfo/carbon/cheato/light feeding and yet... 48 hours after a big waterchange and siphoning all the detrus out... my Phos will rise to .25 on the api test... .1 on sailfert...
So maybe fluconzole will be the helping hand I need to get the gha out of the way...and I will be able to keep control of everythibf there after...
My scopas tang was keeping the DT gha spotless until my cyano outbreak... now she is spoiled on Nori and mysis.. and won't touch any algae anymore
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LeJeune981
New member
But.. other than the gha... my fish/corals and inverts are all happy and healthy.. and I'm starting to see coraline growth for first time..
I think my ignorance in salt water..and me starting up with tap water really messed me up right out of the gates...
100 gallons total system water now with the newish set up after the 150 broke... I've done 1- 50. 4-30. 2-20 gallon 0 tds rodi water changes to get the tap water out
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I think my ignorance in salt water..and me starting up with tap water really messed me up right out of the gates...
100 gallons total system water now with the newish set up after the 150 broke... I've done 1- 50. 4-30. 2-20 gallon 0 tds rodi water changes to get the tap water out
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sde1500
Active member
Going on 23 days with fluconazole in my tank currently, for GHA. It has done amazing work. I used it and then manually removed a lot, but I've witnessed large clumps just disappear in a day or two. Still got some but the tank is starting to show signs of imbalance. It is definitely a great tool, but I agree if the underlying cause is not addressed it won't do much. Or more issues will present themselves. I knew my tank was running a little high on nutrients. Now that GHA has been beat back, that will be my focus.
I definitely didn't want to go 23 days, a water change was planned at day 21 but hey whats a few extra days?
I definitely didn't want to go 23 days, a water change was planned at day 21 but hey whats a few extra days?
outy
New member
It cleaned all my bryopsis and most GHA and I only dosed 10 pills for 260G ish
Now I have a little cyano is some shaded sections.
My water was all new. I do have a brown algae problem the fluc did not touch. Using a slight splash of chemiclean and then ill do another large water change in a few days.
Now I have a little cyano is some shaded sections.
My water was all new. I do have a brown algae problem the fluc did not touch. Using a slight splash of chemiclean and then ill do another large water change in a few days.
LeJeune981
New member
I'm kinda debating on building an upflow ats and adding it to my fuge...
The more I look at and study my algae.. the more I'm set on a turf algae problem.. it's nothing like the gha I have had in the past.. and deff does not come off the rock as easy as gha.. I've book marked both fluconzole and the reef clean stuff.. just in case
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The more I look at and study my algae.. the more I'm set on a turf algae problem.. it's nothing like the gha I have had in the past.. and deff does not come off the rock as easy as gha.. I've book marked both fluconzole and the reef clean stuff.. just in case
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