For hose with 60*36 tanks, lights?

2004jetta

Member
OK so in the next few months I hope to set up a 60*36*20 or maybe 24 high inwall. I'm stuck on the lights right now. Since the tank is most likely going to be just 20" tall I don't wanna burn any corals with the MH's (I want shimmer baby :) ). I will likely have a mixed reef with all types of coral. There will be a sb an inch or two deep. I was wondering what kind of lights you guys would reccomend?

Another question is how do I get the tank right up to the wall for an inwall? It will be going in between 2 rooms if it matter.

TIA
 
I am in the same situation with the lights. Depending on budget, you can go with a powermodule 10 X 54w T5 or a Photon. Both lights are over 20 inches wide. Using several pendents would also work.
 
I would use 2 x 175W or 250W MH's. I would also recommend using the lumenarc reflectors. They will give you great spread over that tank!
 
I was thinking lumenarcs but I wasn't sure if they would be too much for certain corals. Since there will only be 18-19 of water between the lowest point I don't want to burn anything. Do you think 175's would be ok, or would they be too strong?
 
I have a 60x36x26 (click my little red house for my build thread). I'm using a 12x54w Sfiligoi Stealth T5 and am very happy with it. I couldn't tell by your post if you did or didn't want MH, but I have forgotten all about shimmer looking at the nice colored SPS I get with T5s :) And saving $100s of dollars on the electric bill doesnt hurt either.
 
I do plan on using MH but if i come to the conclusion that doing so will make it necessary to run a chiller I'll settle with T5s. Electricy wont be that much more I'd think and I plan on the rest of the system being pretty efficient. Does anyone know if running the MH's will require a chiller?
 
12 x 54 = 648 watts

2 x 250 = 500 watts

A watt is a watt...500 watts of MH will produce approximately the same amount of heat as 500 watts of T5. Its mostly just a matter of how its distributed. Heat wont be an issue since you would need to raise the MH up a bit to get good coverage. Space might be an issue above the tank if your limited in height though.
 
Above the tank I will have 4-5 feet before hitting the ceiling. So you think 250 would be better suited because of the spread I'll need?

On another note I spoke with the plumber and electrician today. I'm have 4-4 gang outlets on 2-20amp circuits. I'll also have a drain and a cold water line straight in the closet/ mini fish room. Still debating 20 or 24 inches high, leaning towards 20.
 
Yeah, I would go with 250's. If you were going softies only, 175's would probably do just fine.

On the height, what would the water depth be in the tank was 20" high. You might find that 24" tank height, will give you about 20" of open water once you subtract the bottom pane, sand bed, and a little extra room at the top.
 
I haven't spoken with any tank builders yet. I'll assume an inch for glass, 2 for sand, and another 2 for airspace up top. After acutally writing it out, I may go with the 24". So it will be either 20" with 15" of water, or 24" with 19" of water.

I think I'll go with 250 and keep the less light demanding species more towards the bottom.
 
you'll have to go with a chiller with halide i'm pretty sure unless you're up for using a ton of evaporative cooling
 
what exactly is a "ton"? I'll have ATO set-up and a dehumidifying fan in there but after a certain point it just wouldn't be worth it. And with just 2 MH's covering such a large area and being 12-16" above the water do you really think I would need a chiller?
 
Well, I run 4 x 400W MH over an 8 ft tank and don't run fans, etc or a chiller and the tank temp is stable. The sump is in the basement which helps, but a chiller is not a given unless you are in a very warm climate (and NJ doesn't qualify :))

Mark
 
Thank you Mark. I wasn't sure since this is my first reef tank (my own anyway, I help my sister ith her's) I'll be putting up a build thread once I feel I have enough progress done.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13325364#post13325364 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fiziksgeek
12 x 54 = 648 watts

2 x 250 = 500 watts

A watt is a watt...500 watts of MH will produce approximately the same amount of heat as 500 watts of T5. Its mostly just a matter of how its distributed. Heat wont be an issue since you would need to raise the MH up a bit to get good coverage. Space might be an issue above the tank if your limited in height though.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13326995#post13326995 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by skey44
you'll have to go with a chiller with halide i'm pretty sure unless you're up for using a ton of evaporative cooling


:confused:

FWIW, I have a 150g tub I'm setting up which has similar dimensions. It is going to be lit by 2 x 175w Iwasaki 15K bulbs, so that's only 350w. My goal is to keep my electric bill low and avoid having to get a chiller.
 
Maybe I'll go with 175's and keep SPS and such higher up for those reasons. All this for the first decision, gonna be a long build.

I have to start proof reading my posts...
 
Ive got a 60x36x20 190g tank. I run 2x250w 14ks, on lumenarc reflectors. I switched to a PFO fixture for a little while,but the coverage wasnt good enough. Go with the 250w, they wont be too much. Ive got leathers halfway up the tank, SPS on the top, and halfway up, all is doing well.
 
I have 2-400w Sfiligoi XR4 with fans and no chiller. House temp controlled at 79 during the warmer months. Tank measures 160 x 80 x 60h cm (63 x 31,5 x 23,6 h inch.) with minimal light spilling. The fan blowing in between the light and tank makes a big difference. I only use T5's before and after halides for sunrise/sunset. Fan below circulates fresh air.
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One consideration I'll throw out there is photoperiod - if you are running MH only, thats 2-4 hours less every day that your tank will be lit up for your enjoyment. What I might suggest is going with (2x175w) and 6 T5s (3 on each side) Run 10k halides, 2 ATI blue plus (great PAR) and 1 actinic T5 on each side, but only have the halides on for 3-4 hours (whatever your prime viewing time is) Its not just watts, but how long you run the lights that contribute to the electric bill. This will give you awesome coverage (not sure 2 halides alone will cover front to back), awesome growth, awesome color, and keep your electric bill low while maximizing your viewing pleasure.
 
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