luckyk0505
Member
Take your time, observe the fish very carefully. Picking up the healthy speciement
is key to success in this hobby
is key to success in this hobby
Fresh water dip & purple tang
- Thread starter 90g-reefer
- Start date
Chris27
New member
Bustin my chops over .001 I guess you're the big man on campus....
sfboarders
New member
I'm gonna have to agree with krowlee. Keep your salinity at 1.008. The .001 can mean the difference between a failed treatment. Make a batch of 1.008 water for your wc. Stay at that salinity for at least 4 weeks. One thing to note that makes hypo hard is maintaining your pH. It will get very low. Cook some baking soda and mix with ro water and drip. Check pH twice a day.
bustin chops? nah just throwin out the correct salinity to eliminate salt water ich. that one thousandth makes the difference in treating marine ich. have a nice day.
90g-reefer
New member
This fish came from another setup where it was with a sailfin. it's demeanor is very mellow. it is about 4" where my Yellow is 2.5".
90g-reefer
New member
I only have a swing arm I don't have a refractometer, so maybe I shouldn't run hypo?
Chris27
New member
The swing arm won't work for hypo - generally too much error. A refractometer is better, a probe is best, especially when 1-3 ppt makes all the difference.
Personally, I like strait up ionic copper or even cupramine, provided you monitor daily and keep the copper concentration proper, you'll come out on top. If you buy the Red Sea Copper Test you get a free bottle of ionic copper that is good for a treatment of two. A major advantage of copper is that you can keep the pH stable because use salt water mixed up to 35ppt, and you don't have to acclimate the fish back up to 35 ppt salt as you would with hypo...
90g-reefer
New member
Then that is what I will do!
RBU1
Moving on Up
I would go with the Cupramine and add it real slow. Whatever your dose instructions are from the bottle split it in 4 and monitor the fish for 48 hours between doses to make sure they are still eating.
My treatment tank is a 125 and my total dosage to get me to .5 is 24ml. I break the 24 into 4 - 6ml doses and wait at least 48 hours between doses making sure the fish continue to eat as I raise the copper level. Out of all the kits I have tried Salifert seems to be the easiest for me to read. They are all a PITA but Salifert has a blue right at the .5 range.
Good luck and make sure you have cuprisorb and carbon ready should you need to remove the copper.
-1
these are fish with personalities just because some "may" fight does not mean all will.. like saying all pitbulls are mean. ive seen more tanks in my personal experience that had this work just fine for them then i have ever seen or heard of a death caused by it.
Sorry more of a lurker around here this one just rubbed me wrong its not that its bad advice its overly cautious advice stated as if Gospel
ive kept two pairs of yellow and purple one pair died during a tank crash caused by my carlessness and they were large heathy fish. the current pair is young and doing wonderful.
Sorry to get off topic..... On topic please dont freshwater dip unless you are thoughly versed in it, and you see an obvious need... QT as everyone else has stated above and treat if needed, and please post pics of it once its adjusted to its new home i love purple tangs.
IF there are signs of aggression turn your lights off move some rock around even cover the tank so no light gets in during the day with a sheet and turn lights on when you are around and can monitor them if they require time to become accustomed to each other. Good Luck
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Chris27
New member
Neutering the tangs can also help with acclimation. By clipping the tang off with a nice clean sharp pair of fingernail clippers, they will just slap away at each other. Once they realize they are essentially "shooting blanks" they will usually just give up and live happily together. I have a sailfin, yellow, blue and clown tang in my tank and fighting is very rare - especially between the yellow and sailfin.
Chris27
New member
What do you mean by "anti ich"? If the bottle states that dosing will not harm sessile inverts then you may want to consider another treatment method, ie. copper, hypo. The "reef safe" treatments do not kill the parasite, and if you look at the fine print on the bottle you'll see why.
The term ich is an abbreviation that was carried over from the freshwater world, in the SW community, it's real name is Cryptocaryon Irritans. Check out this article it's full of rock-solid information and advise that actually works.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php
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