Fuge Light with Ebay Multichip LED

bqq100

New member
Anyone ever use one of these for a fuge light? I don't believe their number for lumens (i expect more like 1800-2000), but it should still be quite a bit over the ~800 lumens from a standard CFL.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30W-Brightest-Driver-AC-85-265V-30W-LED-Cool-White-High-Power-Lamp-Bulb-Chip-/251336549178?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a84d3633a

My stand is really cramped, so I'm looking for something low profile. I'm planning on slapping it on a video card heatsink, which should be ok for 30 watts (like this one). Only thing I need to figure out is adding a power supply for the fan, preferably without adding another power brick.
 
Those video card heatsinks are only good for up to about 20w when I used an online calculator. For 30w, you would want something s tad larger.
Also, instead of using something off ebay, a Bridgelux 35E2000 (newark or digikey have them) give out a guaranteed 1870lm at 500ma and 33v (~114lm/w), and can be driven up to 1.5a. That ebay led is unlikely to get more than 2100 lumens or so (70lm/w). The Bridgelux only cost around $10 too.

On drivers:
Get a driver with a case. Otherwise you need to isolate it yourself.
 
duron heatsinks with the fan work excellent for up to 50W LED's
http://www.mpja.com/Duron_Athlon-Socket-A-CPU-Heatsink-Fan/productinfo/17045 HK/

and BE CAREFUL with the Chinese power supplies.. Not only is it open frame and could expose you to live mains voltages which could kill you they can also catch fire if improperly designed..

Personally I have NO problems buying the multichip leds off ebay but I get the power supplies from the "professional/safe/UL listed" companies like Meanwell.
 
Those video card heatsinks are only good for up to about 20w when I used an online calculator. For 30w, you would want something s tad larger.
Also, instead of using something off ebay, a Bridgelux 35E2000 (newark or digikey have them) give out a guaranteed 1870lm at 500ma and 33v (~114lm/w), and can be driven up to 1.5a. That ebay led is unlikely to get more than 2100 lumens or so (70lm/w). The Bridgelux only cost around $10 too.

On drivers:
Get a driver with a case. Otherwise you need to isolate it yourself.

Do you have a link to the online calculator? I was figuring the vid card heatsinks would run ~1.2 C/W, which would put the LEDs around 60C. Not cool, but below the 85C that seems to be used for lifetime specs. I'll definitely check out the bridgelux leds.

duron heatsinks with the fan work excellent for up to 50W LED's
http://www.mpja.com/Duron_Athlon-Socket-A-CPU-Heatsink-Fan/productinfo/17045 HK/

and BE CAREFUL with the Chinese power supplies.. Not only is it open frame and could expose you to live mains voltages which could kill you they can also catch fire if improperly designed..

Personally I have NO problems buying the multichip leds off ebay but I get the power supplies from the "professional/safe/UL listed" companies like Meanwell.

I agree, I'm more concerned about the driver than the LEDs, but with a few bucks at home depot I think I can safely house the frame. I will look more into more mainstream drivers.
 
I agree, I'm more concerned about the driver than the LEDs, but with a few bucks at home depot I think I can safely house the frame.

"Safely" for Chinese power supplies = full metal jacket with fire suppression system ;)

Is your house/apartment burning down worth $25-40 ?? (the cost of a quality supply)
 
"Safely" for Chinese power supplies = full metal jacket with fire suppression system ;)

Is your house/apartment burning down worth $25-40 ?? (the cost of a quality supply)

Metal junction box, small balloon filled with fire suppression chemicals, a little helium and I'm all set!

Ya looking around I think I'm going to go with the APC line from meanwell.
 
Right now I think i'm between:
BXRA-56C1600 + APC-25-700 [Speced @500, but driving at @700]
Ebay LED + APC-25-700 [Speced @1050, but underdriving @700]
Ebay LED + APC-35-1050 [Driver maxes at 33V, buy ebay LED is speced at 34-36V]

Leaning toward the bridgelux mainly due to the fact that I can see the datasheet and have a good idea of it's performance over a range of conditions.
 
might I suggest a combo of red/blue leds vs a white led... plants/macroalgae love them..

Oh, yes, definitely. The Bridgelux are super cheap, but a good red + blue combo is also very good (albeit far more expensive). Cheap = Bridgelux (the REAL kind), performance = 450nm + 660nm.

Note on ebay drivers:
I used a 100w ebay led driver in the past. My house didn't burn down. These things are blown way out of proportion.
For instance, take a look at those cheap led fixtures you see for sale. What kind of driver do you think is in there? Meanwells? No, those cheap ebay drivers are. And how many people with those fixtures have reported fires/explosions? I have seen I think one thread where someone talked about how their fixture caught on fire.

That being said, using a good Meanwell has it's benefits. They are vastly more efficient, for one. Think 75% vs. <65%. And they don't get as hot. The ebay drivers can easily reach 150*F IME.
 
I would take a 4-6" PVC pipe cut it in half, and wire two 14w 6500K Compact Florescent bulbs. You can then notch out the ends of the pipe and have it rest on the fuge, almost in the fuge if it makes sense.You can use mylar, pandafilm, emergency heat blanket, or flat white paint to make the inside of the PVC nice and reflective. Should be enough for the fuge.. Unless that's too ghetto. :\

Im having a horrible experience with cheapo LED's so I decided to go another route.
 
I would take a 4-6" PVC pipe cut it in half, and wire two 14w 6500K Compact Florescent bulbs. You can then notch out the ends of the pipe and have it rest on the fuge, almost in the fuge if it makes sense.You can use mylar, pandafilm, emergency heat blanket, or flat white paint to make the inside of the PVC nice and reflective. Should be enough for the fuge.. Unless that's too ghetto. :\

Im having a horrible experience with cheapo LED's so I decided to go another route.

Nice idea! I might apply that for a cheap light anytime.
Maybe for a planted tank.
 
If I went with a blue/red (white too?) combo, what ratio works best?
That topic could be discussed for months (and it has around here) with NO true 100% undeniable truth as each organism in the world is different. So there is no real easy button or 1 fits all..

In general like said above .. 450nm blues and 660nm reds.

Personally to pick a number almost straight out my butt I would go for a 4:3:1 watt ratio of red:blue:warm white

I'm having good luck now with 50W blue and 50W red..
 
That topic could be discussed for months (and it has around here) with NO true 100% undeniable truth as each organism in the world is different. So there is no real easy button or 1 fits all..

In general like said above .. 450nm blues and 660nm reds.

Personally to pick a number almost straight out my butt I would go for a 4:3:1 watt ratio of red:blue:warm white

I'm having good luck now with 50W blue and 50W red..

Thanks, definitely know that everyone has an opinion and will fight to the death to defend it, but was looking for a starting point.
 
This is the light I made using ebay multichips. they are all 10w and fully dimmable. the inside 2 chips are both 6 6500k/ 3 450nm and the out side 2 are 6 450nm/3 10k. It grow macro like crazy! total cost was 70 bucks. P5260202.jpg

P5260200.jpg

P5120099.jpg

P5120100.jpg
 
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