Geosapper

[Dwayne]

So the same problem would be for those who have their refugium going to sump, right? If so, those who are content to run their refugium through the sump, should also be OK with running the geosapper through the sump ...

If you are happy running your refugium through your sump, then you should be happy running thge Geosapper in the same manner.

Dwayne

 

[Dag]

Happy? No choice, and it seems better than no refugium at all.

 

[Rod Buehler]

Hey D.
You and Geo have a very cool item here!
I am planning a getto version (maybe out of the Rubbermaid stackable droors on wheels, like someone mentioned) but im thinking of making it a bit larger and adding a 4th section. The 4th/bottom section will house a sand bed and some mysids. I think i will call it the DeWebber Whatca think?

 

[Rod Buehler]

Hey D.
You and Geo have a very cool item here!
I am planning a getto version (maybe out of the Rubbermaid stackable droors on wheels, like someone mentioned) but im thinking of making it a bit larger and adding a 4th section. The 4th/bottom section will house a sand bed and some mysids. I think i will call it the DeWebber Whatca think?

 

[Dwayne]

Hey D.
You and Geo have a very cool item here!
I am planning a getto version (maybe out of the Rubbermaid stackable droors on wheels, like someone mentioned) but im thinking of making it a bit larger and adding a 4th section. The 4th/bottom section will house a sand bed and some mysids. I think i will call it the DeWebber Whatca think?

LOL at DeWebber

A fourth stage with mysis would be interesting. I've been saying I was going to try to culture mysis, but I haven't done it yet.

Dwayne

 

[tgeiger]

I just wanted to let you know I just finish building mine. I'm using 5L #7 Tupperware containers. Right now I only have 2 levels, but plan to add a 3rd in a few days.

The biggest problem I had was figuring out how to get the tubing through the containers. I ended up with 3 solutions.
1) For rigid tubing, drill 3/16" hole, stick the tube through, and Crazy Glue it and seal with silicon sealant (both sides).
2) For fill/vent tube, used 1/2" PVC male threaded elbow. The tupperware container wall is thin enough that it auto-threads.
3) Picked up some sprinkler 1/4" barb unions. They have a nice flat peice in the middle that glues well to the tupperware container.

Thanks for a great idea!

-Tom

 

[vmiller]

Geo is selling these at a very reasonable price. I have one waiting for me at my door step

 

[Chris_Reef]

This looks very cool! For those of you who have built or bought one.. how do you like it?

 

[vmiller]

For the past month I have been fighting cyano. As a result I haven't been feeding live food and haven't had a chance to try out the geosapper.

The cyano is gone for the most part so hopefully I'll be able to start using it soon.

Vin

 

[darrellh]

Hi Dwayne,

The Geosapper looks like a great idea. Thanks for sharing your ingenuity with the masses. I had a question about the phytoplankton. Does the phyto have to be live, or can it be the frozen concetrate form like Brine Shrimps Direct's Tahitian Blend?

Thanks,
Darrell

 

[Dwayne]

The Geosapper looks like a great idea. Thanks for sharing your ingenuity with the masses. I had a question about the phytoplankton. Does the phyto have to be live, or can it be the frozen concetrate form like Brine Shrimps Direct's Tahitian Blend?

Thanks.

The phyto can be any type that works. Not meaning that in a 'smart' way, but all is good as long as the zooplankton is mulitplying.

FWIW

Dwayne

 

[RogueCorps]

Hey Dwayne,

I use Carlson type surges on my nano tanks and you and George's Geosapper is quite a cool application of them.

I realize the drip and surge rates will vary on the application, but could you describe the rates of drip and surge on your system and approximately how long that volume of phytoplankton lasts before refilling?

Also when stage 2 surges, is it usual that stage 3 will fire directly after it or does it take a number of surges from stage 2 to make stage 3 surge?

I guess live phytoplankton is the way to go since it's already at room temperature. Instant algae and Tahitian Blend need to be kept refrigerated. As long as the phyto could be kept in good shape I could see enlarging stage 1 for longer running periods, and maybe for Tahitian Blend a small IceProbe chiller could be added as well.

Truly a very cool design and excellent fabrication from your buddy George. Great job!

-Rogue

 

[Dwayne]

I realize the drip and surge rates will vary on the application, but could you describe the rates of drip and surge on your system and approximately how long that volume of phytoplankton lasts before refilling?

I have adjusted it to last for roughly a 24hr period.

Also when stage 2 surges, is it usual that stage 3 will fire directly after it or does it take a number of surges from stage 2 to make stage 3 surge?

The unit I have is set up so Stage 3 goes right after Stage 2. It would be possible to change the set up to require mulitple Stage 2 surges prior to Stage 3 surging. This is done by adjusting the 'length' of the the bend in the surge tube. Making Stage 3 larger than Stage 2 will require more Stage 2 surges prior to Stage 3 surging.

Thanks

Dwayne

 

[nameless]

This may be the dumbest question ever, but I'm new to DIY, so I'm going to ask anyway.

With the surge tube having a downward bend like that, how does the siphon get 'reestablished' after it breaks at the end of a surge?

Also, what percentage of each holding area do you 'surge' out? In the plans, it looks like about half, but I wasn't sure if that was just for plan purposes....

No one has posted on this thread in a long time. Are people that used this still using it? Is it working?

 

[Dwayne]

With the surge tube having a downward bend like that, how does the siphon get 'reestablished' after it breaks at the end of a surge?

The surge will restart once the water level rises above the bend.

Also, what percentage of each holding area do you 'surge' out? In the plans, it looks like about half, but I wasn't sure if that was just for plan purposes....

The length of the bend determines the amount that is surged out. In particular the length of the downward pointing piece. The water has to drop below that to break the siphon. This is one way of determining the amount that is actually surged.

No one has posted on this thread in a long time. Are people that used this still using it? Is it working?

I can't speak for anyone else, but I am. Yes, it works wonderful.

Dwayne

 

[Submarine_Street]

Hello, I have just saw your Geosapper today on Reefkeeping Online and I was extremely amazed by your idea. Earlier you said in the third chamber the brine shimps have to be always refilled. I was wondering would there be another type of culture that can substitue the brine shimp in the third chamber but doesn't have to be refilled and would constantly reproduce like the copepods?

 

[nameless]

maybe mysis?

 

[Submarine_Street]

I guess that could work, to tell you the truth I'm just a big lazy noob when it comes to cuture, that's why Dwayne's invention got my attention since it saves of time and work. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Dwayne]

Mysis might not reproduce fast enough. Whatever is used in the second and third chambers will need to reproduce quickly.

Let us know if you try something different and your results.

 

[Submarine_Street]

Oh darn, if I find something that can keep on reproduce I'll let you know.