geothermal chiller

Hey I love this thread, fun stuff. There are many great thoughts and some not so but it is a cool forum.

falconut made a great point about the growth, something that I hadn't considered. AND running the water through an exchanger will reduce efficiency - some.

As far as the black poly pipe lasting, I am not sure. I believe it is NOT code approved for use inside of the house because of some major catastrophes and huge lawsuits a few years back.

Now PEX the radiant heating tubing is much better, stronger, has an oxygen barrier, and can withstand a broad range of pressure. But, it is costly compared (I think) to the black poly stuff. Runs around $0.45 to $0.60/LF. The most typical size used for radiant heating systems is 1/2" and the pipe is not really well known for it's thermal transfer properties, which are poor. But it does the job with enough pipe out there and a big enough temp diff.

So just crunching a few numbers . . .at a velocity of 6 FPS in a 1/2" line you can expect a pressure drop of around 20 PSI/100 feet of pipe. Say you put out 200 feet, that translates to 92 feet of head! Most aquarium pumps are rated for high flow and low head. Your GPH at 6 FPS is 210 or 3.5 GPM. This doesn't look good.

So what if we lowered the flow to say 1.5 GPM (90 GPH) which translates to 4 PSI/100 feet of pipe. That would drop the total head to around 20 feet which is manageable.

Now at 1.5 GPM and an entering water temp (via the exchanger) of around 75 deg F you could expect a temp drop of maybe 10 degrees through the loop then you will lose a couple of those degrees again at the exchanger. So if you were able to get 1.5 GPM at a 6 deg F drop you will be dumping 4500 BTUH to the Earth. (Provided you were deep enough to get constant temp which would have to be from 2' to 6' and it's better if the ground is WET). One watt of electricity equals 3.4 BTUH so you are getting rid of about 1323 watts.

I think this is starting to look attractive but cost is going to be a factor. 200 feet of 1/2" PEX = $100. A heat exchanger of titanium will run around $100 (I am now officially WAGGING) and a decent pressure circulator will run $225 and you had better add another $100 for what if's. Still $600 for essentially FREE cooling isn't bad. You still have to provide the labor and misc stuff but I am liking it.

Unless of course you have a day job and kids and a bad back . . . well maybe working a few hours overtime to pay for that $600 chiller doesn't look so bad either.

Sorry for the run of the fingers here, I kind of dig this stuff.


UPDATE INFO. I just noticed on Ebay, 500 LF of 3/4" PEX for $150 which includes shipping. 3/4" could handle a higher flow rate and maybe it would end up at a lower PD. Velocity at around 1.5 FPS is enough to elimate laminarity as I recall.
 
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One more thing, stay away from the tank idea, there is such poor thermal transfer and do not use less than 1/2" pipe. If it is going to be buried under a building consider the heat gain from the building and FOR SURE use PEX under a slab.
 
nice info chuby2k,
when you say "under the slab " do you mean directly under or just inside the perimeter?
Frostline here is 32". footings are dug at 48", I can burry inside or outside. Inside being a bit easier of course.
 
hmmm ,not sure I understand your question completely Marco.

Under the slab anywhere is what I was getting to. So if you were to bury the pipe under your footings or basement floor, that would be "under the slab". The problem is the earth heats up from the indoor space temp so your transfer would not be as good. Your bigger concern would be a less than high performance pipe that could easily shear or get damaged during the installation. If that happens and you have poured the floor you are up the creek, so to speak.

I just remembered another type of piping called multicore. It is an aluminum corrugated pipe with a PVC like jacket and it's thermal conductivity is much better than PEX or poly. I think it is cheaper than PEX by a bit too.

Tell you what, I will look up some pricing and thermal conductivity stuff and post it back here. This idea is starting to make better sense to me and if nothing else it's fun.

I do know a little about piping, pumping and thermal and fluid dynamics but when it comes to LPS or SPS or trying to keep reef tanks alive, I am going to need MUCH help friend.

I'll get back here after I gather a little info.

Oh and one more minor detail, It's CUBY, not CHUBY. Just a small item. ahem. :rollface:
 
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I've heard of people using 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC for to piping buried and to run to the sump for the tank water systems. Wouldn't that work for the closed loop?

Shouldn't I be able to bury say 200' of 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC and run it to just outside the sump, then connect it to some 1/4" 304 Stainless Steel Tubing (in the sump for exchanger) and then switch back to 1/2" PVC to return back to the ground?

I've found 1/4" 304 Stainless Steel Tubing for $1.99/ft and 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC is cheap and the seals won't leak. All I would need is to determine a pump size and get a controller.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7293273#post7293273 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by falconut
I've found 1/4" 304 Stainless Steel Tubing for $1.99/ft and 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC is cheap and the seals won't leak. All I would need is to determine a pump size and get a controller.
i love you man. jk

try 1/2 ss flex gas line connector.

http://www.laundryparts.com/sunshop/images/products/zgasline.jpg

easy to bend and ribbed for heat transfer pleasure


i feel like a walmart greeter. lol
 
You're welcome. I plan to use one of these exchangers to
build a chiller from a $100 window A/C unit like ReefRelated
pioneered...

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=177020

Besides geo-thermal, I suspect the above window A/C trick
is the most cost effective long-term chiller solution. The
heat and noise is dumped outdoors where they belong
and the total cost is about the same as a store-bought
chiller with the same capacity. The hard part is finding a
magician who will do all the technical A/C stuff for a
reasonable price.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7116179#post7116179 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Melnick
Just a thought - I have seen some sort of product used on those home improvement shows for radiant floor heating. They run this flexable hose back and forth on the floor, cover it with wood or concrete and run hot water through it. Could have superior heat exchanging properties...

that my friend is PEX tubing...


it can even freeze with water in it, and not burst.

i worked for my dads plumbing and boiler shop for a few years. we used pex tubing for all of our in flooor heat installs. that stuff works great:)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7292174#post7292174 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Cuby2k
falconut made a great point about the growth, something that I hadn't considered.

I had credited falconut with the comment about growth inside of the tubing, it was actually first stated by H2OENG. My appologies.

One more thing for now, a closed loop of anything will require an expansion tank. In this case it would only have to be a small 5-gal bladder type but it will greatly reduce the stess on your components.

Because it would be a closed loop the pump could and in this case most likely have to be above the majority of the piping.

ok so that's 2 things for now.
 
Oh and one more minor detail, It's CUBY, not CHUBY. Just a small item. ahem. :rollface: [/B]

Sorry about that one...:D

Oh and by "under the slab" I guess I meant in contact vs burried under. It does make sense though, that the interior building temp would heat any material under. I guess the obvious answer is to go outside the foundation with any loops.
Marc
 
Cuby2K - BeanAnimal was the person who came up with the critters in the pipe thought. Which is a very great point. Also, why is a expansion tank needed? Won't this now allow evaporation?

douggiestyle - Can I simply use this for my heat exchanger piping? And how can I tell if 3' is enough?

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...ID=ccdfaddhjjhkgegcgelceffdfgidgng.0&MID=9876

I'm assuming that I should be able to use the 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC for the entire loop (including the buried pipe) and just connect to the 1/2" ss gas line connector for the exchanger.

Again, does anybody know the formula or where I can determine how much of the buried pipe and how much of the gas line will be good enough to cool? I would hate to do all this work and find out that I didn't install enough pipe.
 
Is this too simple
As a heat exchanger?
Use a tank....say a 40 or 50 breeder 2 or 3 18x 18 squares of egg crate then "weave" ~ 100" feet of 1/4 poly tube through them. Of course if your underground loop is 1/2" you would need to make the "weave" multiple loops.
Run this heat exchanger tank after your main sump.

Falconut,
I'm not sure I'd use sch 40, it seems like that wall thickness would prevent it from being a good heat transfer? Do you know of anyone that has used it successfully ?

Marc
 
Marco67 - aquadw says he used 1" PVC pipe for his tank water system that worked fine. I'm assuming it was Sch. 40.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7294915#post7294915 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by falconut
Cuby2K - BeanAnimal was the person who came up with the critters in the pipe thought. Which is a very great point. Also, why is a expansion tank needed? Won't this now allow evaporation?


I'm assuming that I should be able to use the 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC for the entire loop (including the buried pipe) and just connect to the 1/2" ss gas line connector for the exchanger.

Again, does anybody know the formula or where I can determine how much of the buried pipe and how much of the gas line will be good enough to cool? I would hate to do all this work and find out that I didn't install enough pipe.


Well kudos to Bean then, thanks.

The expansion tank would be a bladder type, like the ones used in domestic hot water heaters, so it would still be a closed loop.

I think if you are going to all the trouble of burying the pipe you should go to 3/4", the heat transfer coefficient for plastic is so poor.

You a thought just hit me, and I will help with the numbers on this if needed but I am so behind in my work right now, if we are looking at a closed loop now, accepting that it will be tap water in the line and a heat exchanger is used in the sump, why not bury copper. (long sentence, is it any wonder I am behind in my work?)The heat transfer is so much better and is available in rolls of soft so it's easier to uncoil.

Give me a minute and I will look up the thermal transfer rates of a couple of different pipes.
 
I just stumbled onto this thread, great thoughts & ideas.
Has anyone given an thoughts to the best circulator pump for this system? I would think that a pump designed for radiant heated flooring applications would be appropriate. They are designed for continious duty and also to overcome the resistance of the long run of small (1/2") tubing. Fairly energy efficent if memory serves... I'll check my circulators for power consumption rating and post later.
 
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