geothermal chiller

Falconut, aquadw here, been following along.
I used 1" sch 40 alright for several reasons.
1. it's 5' underground, thats alot of weight on the pipe.
2. 1" slows the velocity of the water going throught the pipe as opposed to 3/4" or 1/2". the slow the water travels the better heat exchange.
3. 1" adds more water volume.
4. price for 1" is not much different.
I like the idea of the closed loop system but decided the open loop was alot more easier. However i never did consider the possibility of critters in the system. My sytem didn't run long enough to have that problem becaused we moved. I supposed you could filter it, but some micro stuff could still get by.
 
aquadw - I was really considering mimicing your setup for mine. But, then the critter response came up. And now I'm really thinking about it. How long was your setup running for?
 
xrunner1234 is right. The faster the flow rate, the thinner the laminar sublayer, the higher the overall heat transfer coefficient.

I think what aquadw is thinking of is temperature change. The longer the water is in contact with the cold pipe the more heat it can reject to it. This does not result in a more efficient heat exchanger though.

I'll probably run some numbers tonight or tomorrow night. If nothing else I'll post the equations so you can run your own numbers.
 
The other point is that the greater the temperature differential, the faster the heat transfer. You don't want the coolant to come anywhere near the temperature if the liquid being cooled. Speeing the coolant through the system greatly helps this.
 
Still liking the idea of a simple open loop and AQUADW layout of 2 PHs(one cooling on demand other so water doesn't stagnate).

I've opened up some PVC that was tied to a 300gph PH. After about a year+ use, all it had was more of a slime coating than anything else.

There's a thread on reefs.org where a reefer is gravity feeding buried loop from tank to sump.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7296636#post7296636 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChemE

I'll probably run some numbers tonight or tomorrow night. If nothing else I'll post the equations so you can run your own numbers.

That would be awesome! I have been trying to get around to it but have been swamped. The prelim stuff I ran indicated that you are probably going to want to use a 3/4" pipe and run it at a max of 3.5 FPS. I am estimating that we want to dump about 1/2 of a ton of heat to the earth, maybe a little less (1500 w x 3.41) and using a 3 deg F DT we are looking at 4 GPM. I think that is do-able.

One thing is the thermal coefficient of the pipe vs cost. Options could be pe, pex, pvc or I think copper is a viable option here. More cost per foot but the transfer rate is so much better I suspect you could get by with 1/5 the length of pipe.

Good bedding, moist soil, and proper depth are going to play a big part in it all.

Sheesh, I have GOT to get back to work. This is a fun project!
 
Yes Chem, that is what i was trying to say. The slower the water the longer contact time to lower the temp of the incoming water. I realized the use of pvc wasn't the most efficient but it was cheap and availiable, so i guessed and just made it extra long for safety margin.

My system was running for only about 6 months so it by all means was not tested long term. The long term benefits are of course very important. Wish mine was still running.

All my engineering of the system was using the WAG system. You guys seem to be getting way to technical for me. But i am having fun reading.

Don't remember if anyone has mentioned this but i believe GARP reef systems also use a open loop system for there coral frag tanks. Someone might check with them to see how there system work(ed).
 
Cuby,
Thanks for running some #s for us:)
The tubing with aluminum inside is termed Pex-Al-Pex and is used about the same as regular Pex, with slightly better heat transfer #s.
Re: Using copper; I think that in large installations, copper is not used because the earth will get heat soaked too quickly. IIRC the heat transfer coefficent of copper is about 400X better than Pex, but by using more, you are spreading the heat out along a much greater area, allowing the earth to absorb more of your waste heat.
Now in our comparatively small installations, the copper might be fine, and save us an awful lot of digging. I know that some geo heat pump installers are using copper in the earth as the condenser itself (full of refrigerant, not water). The hole for an average 4 ton unit is about 8' x 8' x4' deep IIRC. Thats more than the amount of heat we are trying to dump.
I know that Chicken, here on RC, used copper for his loop, but not sure if its up and running yet. His setup is 600g.

Falconut,
I believe I've read that you need 400- 600' of tubing per ton of cooling (12,000BTU) if that helps you any. Most commercial chillers for reef tanks are way under a ton. BUT in our application the temperature difference (DeltaT) is not as great as in a refrigeration system like a geothermal heat pump. So you will need more tubing to get the same result, since the heat will not transfer as quickly. (REAL engineers, is this correct? I dont want to be blowing smoke:) )
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7294915#post7294915 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by falconut
Cuby2K - BeanAnimal was the person who came up with the critters in the pipe thought. Which is a very great point. Also, why is a expansion tank needed? Won't this now allow evaporation?

douggiestyle - Can I simply use this for my heat exchanger piping? And how can I tell if 3' is enough?

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...ID=ccdfaddhjjhkgegcgelceffdfgidgng.0&MID=9876

I'm assuming that I should be able to use the 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC for the entire loop (including the buried pipe) and just connect to the 1/2" ss gas line connector for the exchanger.

Again, does anybody know the formula or where I can determine how much of the buried pipe and how much of the gas line will be good enough to cool? I would hate to do all this work and find out that I didn't install enough pipe.

i would look around first. my lhs (local hardware store) sells 1/2" x 6'. longer may be available. we only stock 4'
 
expansion tank for sure and a bleeder valve. if using closed loop. which i have to agree, for the long term would be best.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7294915#post7294915 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by falconut
Can I simply use this for my heat exchanger piping? And how can I tell if 3' is enough?
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...ID=ccdfaddhjjhkgegcgelceffdfgidgng.0&MID=9876
and just connect to the 1/2" ss gas line connector for the exchanger.

There is a "roll length" CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing) gas line. As far as I know all the mfgrs require training & certification to use it. I needed to do that for the brand I use at work. More than likely anyone can get a section with fittings attached from their plumber. There are several mfgrs, link to two are below. This way you can have a corrugated heat exchanger whatever length you want with no intermediate connections, just the two end terminations.

http://www.wardflex.com/
http://www.gastite.com/engspecs.php?pg=csst&idlink=link4
 
an example for the slow water vs fast water is this.

have you ever been in a cold pool? what happens when you stop moving? you feel warmer. that is because convection of heat has slowed down. faster movement will strip your body of heat more quickly. this works the same as the water flowing through the system. i own a frig that has a feature called "turbo cool" all it does is blow a fan 100% of the time at 100% power. chills a case of beer quickly.

also it is always a transfer of heat. so do not confuse this with a fan blowing on you on a hot day (above 98.6 apx.). if it were not for evaporative cooling (perspiration) you would actually get hotter more quickly.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7299368#post7299368 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigSkyBart
There is a "roll length" CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing) gas line. As far as I know all the mfgrs require training & certification to use it. I needed to do that for the brand I use at work. More than likely anyone can get a section with fittings attached from their plumber. There are several mfgrs, link to two are below. This way you can have a corrugated heat exchanger whatever length you want with no intermediate connections, just the two end terminations.

http://www.wardflex.com/
http://www.gastite.com/engspecs.php?pg=csst&idlink=link4

i was told once that some areas in the country were allowing "csst" for in wall construction? this is the only other time its been mentioned to me. very cool. is the product you have seen coated?

sorry, some how i missed your link :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7296656#post7296656 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
The other point is that the greater the temperature differential, the faster the heat transfer. You don't want the coolant to come anywhere near the temperature if the liquid being cooled. Speeing the coolant through the system greatly helps this.

ive always tried to visualize heat as pressure. the greater the temp dif. the higher the pressure.

say tank full of water is 24" deep and it starts leaking at the bottom. the first half is going to go fast. the next quarter of the tank in about twice the time. and the last quater about twice again.

heat transfer or better still, equalization works similarly.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7296137#post7296137 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigSkyBart
. Has anyone given an thoughts to the best circulator pump for this system? I would think that a pump designed for radiant heated flooring applications would be appropriate.

I think you are right Bart. The circulators for radiant heating are good little pumps and tend to run and run and run. There is one small issue that we should consider; plastic (type) tubing does not usually come with an oxygen barrier, to get it costs a little more. I am fairly certain the stuff in your home flooring has it. Without it there is a good chance that oxygen will permeate the tube wall and this would require the use of a bronze or stainless impeller.

Now with a salt water pump, you will pay more but they have plastic impellers, well everyone here knows that. I'm the rookie.

Pump selection . . . HP = GPM X Head (ft)/3960 X Efficiency. For a closed loop system head is calculated by the pressure drop per 100' of pipe. So if the PD was 3.5 PSI/100 feet of pipe you would convert PSI to feet of head at 2.31 feet for 1 PSI. You would need to add a few feet for valves (if any).

So if 3/4" pipe were used you would run say 4 GPM at a velocity of 3 FPS which is enough by far. This equates to 3.5 PSI/100 ft.

(Did I already do this or was I just thinking about it? Man I am tired)

H2OENG on a WAG I would agree with your 400 to 600 feet of pipe per ton. But we should check it.

Thermal conductivity is listed as Btu/h*ft*DegF.
Aluminum = 128, Cardboard (just for fun) = 0.04, Copper = 160, PEX = 0.219 (ouch), Aluminized PEX or PEX-AL-PEX (thanks) = 3.12. So per Square foot of surface area or pipe per degree differential you can determine how much piping is needed.

Compare;
3/4" has circumference of about 3" so that's 0.25 FT per LF. Say the water temp is 82 and the Earth is 60, you have a 22 Deg F temp diff. (I know there are variables here but I am tired so please don't yell at me. Please feel free to check and correct my math however)

PEX: 0.219*0.25*22 = 1.2 BTUH per LF If you have 1/2 ton you need 5000 LF
PEX-AL-PEX = 17.16 BTUH /LF so 349 LF
Copper: 880 BTUH/LF so less than 10 feet. LESS THAN TEN FEET!!!!

hmmmm, copper is looking GOOD. However, I agree with you H2O that the Earth in that short of a space will heat up and not permit the heat to dissipate well enough. So what would happen is you would raise the temp of the Earth around that 10 feet of pipe to nearer the water temp then your transfer would drop off.

Well I got spanked on another thread for being a fan of PEX but looking at these numbers I think I deserved it. My money is now on copper in the ground, PEX where it's exposed and a ti coil in the sump.

PS, I am now very behind in my real work.
 
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AND another thing, (hehe), with the shorter length of copper in the ground your pressure drop will be less and your pump size smaller. I am pretty shore (sure)(I told you I was tired) oxygen could not permeate copper so you could use a cast impeller radiant heat pump, inexpensive, reliable, etc.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7299834#post7299834 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by douggiestyle
i was told once that some areas in the country were allowing "csst" for in wall construction? this is the only other time its been mentioned to me. very cool. is the product you have seen coated?

I have only seen the "csst" with a coating. PVC is the material.
 
Does anyone have any recommendations for pumps to run a geothermal setup? I have 250' of 1" copper pipe already burried and just picked up a titanium heat exchanger. All I need now to start testing is a pump. Any ideas?
 
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