Getting a tank for Christmas? Some suggestions.

Sk8r

Staff member
RC Mod
1. Thank the giver---a lot.
2. If somebody else picked out the tank, do this BEFORE you take off the stickers and start in...figure WHAT you want to keep in it, and be sure that's the right shape and size. Before those labels come off, you can very likely exchange it, and you CAN order a tank the store may not have in stock.
a) As a rule, pair of perc or ocell clowns and (later) nem or (not and) small blennies and gobies, smallest jawfish (nothing that grows to more than 4" as an adult) and some corals go in a 30;

blennies, gobies, a small angel in a 50;

in a 100 gal, multiple damsels or a small-species browsing tang; or a dwarf angel; with blennies, gobies, etc....nothing that exceeds 5" in adult size.

And so it goes. If you're aching for a species that grows to 10" adult, and is active, you need a special-order tank. BUT---all this said, a 30 is a manageable size if you just stick to what it can handle: you can learn things you'll need to succeed, like water chemistry, etc, etc. Siting a large-species tank in your home is like finding room for a grand piano. It's not for everybody. Blennies, gobies, small jawfish, clowns, are all very nice fish.

There is also the 'specialty' tank, in which you keep one or two fish who don't play well with others.

Can you do a reef in a 30? Absolutely. Some corals are easy: you just need to do weekly water tests. And have proper lighting for them. There's a learning curve, so make your mistakes small in a small tank first, then consider more ambitious steps.

Next, and before you buy sand and rock or add water: read all the sticky-posts at the top of the Reef Central 'New to the Hobby', 'Reef Discussion' posts. Ask us if you have further questions. This is not the sort of hobby where you can fly by moment-to-moment research: a mistake early in setup can give you grief and cost you money. Know which goes in first, (rock, and I underlay my rock with eggcrate lighting grid to keep sharp points off the bottom glass) and whether to wash your sand (if dry, oh, yes!) and whether tapwater is ok (it isn't) and how long to mix your water (overnight with a mixing pump is good). You see what I mean---wrong choice can send you back several steps.

You'll need a source for live rock and a ro/di filter.

And finally---don't hesitate to ask here. If you THINK something's wrong, come here and ask early, rather than after it's gotten complicated.
 
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Also---if you have freshwater experience, in general, marine tanks have a LOT of basic differences, among them: ph isn't the most basic test: alkalinity is what you track. You don't run filters in a reef (maybe a filter sock), but no bioballs, no wet-dry, no filter pads. Live rock and sand do the processing.
[A tank has to be 'cycled' before it can have fish/corals, and this can take up to 12 weeks [ordinary is 4]. Many other species of worms and snails and crawly things will come to share your tank: most are helpful.

Many things people think of as iconic for the ocean (big-claw crabs, starfish) do not belong in your tank. Urchins are iffy. Many of these just turn up on coral specimens.

And the green planted look is not for marine tanks: some cheatomorpha moss can live in your sump, (ah, yes, marine tanks of any size tend to have sumps where the pump and skimmer and heater and such live). Water falls down from the tank to the sump where it's skimmed and then shot back up at fair velocity, in most tanks.

And---there's not really an 'aggressive or community' designation that works for marine fish. There are fish that eat any other fish that fit in their mouths; there are fish that prefer shrimp to eat; there are fish that live on algaes; and most any of them will turn aggro as a junkyard dog if in too small a tank or faced with another fish of its own kind. Some fish do accept others for a while as youngsters, but will not accept another addition after they're more established. Aggression is about 'enough territory' and 'swimming room'. You rarely want a 'pair' of anything unless you're prepared to give them a LOT of room: a nice fish can turn aggro if mating.

Most of all, ask: some things don't like each other on sight, and those of us who've been round the block a few times can advise on fish behaviors.
 
This should be a temporary sticky every Christmas season :)

Impressed you went into all those details without mentioning Nemo or Dory too!
 
Lol---I'm hoping that by now people know that sweet Dory is a foot long and armed with a killer tail spike. And at least that she doesn't belong in a 30 gallon tank.

Hint. If you have kids, as someone discovered, get them a nice little Nemo, who is safe, and small, and for a dory-fish, get them a pretty little yellowtail damsel---only one, because the sweet disappears if challenged. But the ytd is brilliant dory blue with a pretty yellow tail, and the kids, who, unlike grownups, are used to makebelieve and have no problem calling a plushie toy "Dory", can name the little damsel 'Dory' and have a nice relatively well-dispositioned fish that won't ever end up costing you an 8-foot 500 gallon rig. They DO grow fast!
 
Yellow tail, Azure, and jewel damsels have always been my favorite fish. None allowed in my new tank yet to be delivered (maybe some azures way down the road), but a damsel tank is just so much fun. My father got me into this hobby since I was a kid. Our first saltwater was in the mid 70's and was all damsels. When I moved to FL I sold everything and said I was done. then Dad moved to FL and insisted on a 29 gallon fresh water tank, and it's all it took to pull me RIGHT back in, lol. Now I'm trying to convince him that 29 gallon would look much better with a few damsels instead of guppies, swords, and a frog :)
 
What we need to do is make Nemo 3000.00$ but make the equipment to keep Nemo free. People might then understand the requirements for "an easy fish." Great post BTW!
 
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