I'm hearing FAR too many reports of broken tanks or failed seams.
When you buy, of course you want the biggest tank for the least money you can manage, but you also value your living room floor.
Be sure that the tank you buy is appropriate thickness for a marine tank: remember that tanks are also designed for keeping small crustaceans, mammals, and reptiles, and the thin glass that is perfectly fine for those is not going to be as safe nor are its JOINTS as safe as a tank designed for the job.
Consider too that at a typical 79 degrees, we are running quite warm water, which is a bit more than your typical freshwater rig, ---a little stress on seams--- while putting quite a lot of high-mass rock and sand plus 8 or so lbs per gallon of water, and putting powerheads or devices on the side that also put out a bit of thrust....a pulsing device even more so.
So look askance at extremely thin glass. And take a critical look at acrylic seams in bizarre designs...I had a triangular tall tank (acrylic) that, thanks to the warm water I was using, I strongly believe, just gave way down the whole backseam---its ONLY seam.
With glass, can it withstand a mild impact while stressed with a full load of water and rock?---your average toddler with a toy car may test it.
Configuration matters. Depth matters: a tall column of water weighs a bit.
I look for 5/8ths inch glass at around 50 gallons. More gallons than that, I definitely want the thicker glass. I've used less thickness, naturally, in acrylic, but I also had some bowing issues after 10 years---nothing catastrophic. I have an acrylic sump, and I put some channeling on the top edge to solve some bowing (which can threaten seams over time) which I was getting after just 4 years.
So shop around. Take a look at the structure. At the seams. Make them take the paper off so you can get a look at the seam top to bottom. Chips and bubbles are a deal-breaker. Most of all, if 2 tanks are of the same size but different prices, take a critical look at why.
When you buy, of course you want the biggest tank for the least money you can manage, but you also value your living room floor.
Be sure that the tank you buy is appropriate thickness for a marine tank: remember that tanks are also designed for keeping small crustaceans, mammals, and reptiles, and the thin glass that is perfectly fine for those is not going to be as safe nor are its JOINTS as safe as a tank designed for the job.
Consider too that at a typical 79 degrees, we are running quite warm water, which is a bit more than your typical freshwater rig, ---a little stress on seams--- while putting quite a lot of high-mass rock and sand plus 8 or so lbs per gallon of water, and putting powerheads or devices on the side that also put out a bit of thrust....a pulsing device even more so.
So look askance at extremely thin glass. And take a critical look at acrylic seams in bizarre designs...I had a triangular tall tank (acrylic) that, thanks to the warm water I was using, I strongly believe, just gave way down the whole backseam---its ONLY seam.
With glass, can it withstand a mild impact while stressed with a full load of water and rock?---your average toddler with a toy car may test it.
Configuration matters. Depth matters: a tall column of water weighs a bit.
I look for 5/8ths inch glass at around 50 gallons. More gallons than that, I definitely want the thicker glass. I've used less thickness, naturally, in acrylic, but I also had some bowing issues after 10 years---nothing catastrophic. I have an acrylic sump, and I put some channeling on the top edge to solve some bowing (which can threaten seams over time) which I was getting after just 4 years.
So shop around. Take a look at the structure. At the seams. Make them take the paper off so you can get a look at the seam top to bottom. Chips and bubbles are a deal-breaker. Most of all, if 2 tanks are of the same size but different prices, take a critical look at why.
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