Going away for the summer, need help!

DamnPepShrimp

Moved On
Ok I have a 110g mixed reef tank (no SPS). I have no fish in the tank because I am going to the beach for the summer (may 23rd to sept 2nd). I have a 30g sump right now, and adding a 20g fuge. I have to add about 5-8g of water a week for evaporation. I don't have an auto topoff. I will be about 1.5 hours away from the tank, the beach isn't far, but I won't be coming home unless I have to (maybe once a month). I am considering getting an autotop off, maybe the tunze osmolater just because of how accurate it is. I also would need to add my additives as well, calcium, coral vital, zooplex etc. I could add some of those to the top off water. No one in my house knows anything about reef tanks and refuses to touch my tank. If I have one more problem with it too, ex: my sump over flows again (due to a power failure, but I have that covered now) then the tank is gone. I am just starting to get my tank built up, the corals are growing nicely. So any suggestions on what to do? I'd hate to drop $200 on the osmo but if that is my only choice, then I'll do it rather then sell the tank off. I wonder if that will be enough, how much time it will get me. I'll have to get a huge 55g drum for autotop off water. I hope I can mix the additives together too? Please help! Thanks.
 
Don't have a tank sitter. But I can come back maybe 1 day every two weeks. I will get an auto topoff with a huge container, and test that before I go. See how long it takes for the container to run dry. I guess I will have to dish out the $200 for the tunze just incase, so I don't have anything go wrong while I am away. What about adding additives? Will it be ok to mix them in the top off container?
 
Ok, I have a couple of ideas I need people to elaborate on.

Get a larger sump, right now I am currently not running a skimmer since I don't have any fish, the seaclone doesn't count and I have finalized my sump yet. I have a new octopus NW 200 just sitting here, but I don't know if I want to mod it/redesign the sump.

So if I get say a 75g sump, will this help my problem? I am thinking, more sump volume, then it takes longer for the more water to evaporate. But, the more water, the more evaporation. So is it better to have a bigger sump? I won't be running a skimmer because I will have the water flucuating too much, I'll just do water changes, once a month when I come back.

As far as the additives go. I can add a lot of calcium into my container for the auto top off, so that will be added every few days, or once a week. As far as the coral food/additives go, I could set that up on a drip system I was thinking? Just get it to where it barely drips every few minutes?

I'll definitely have to set up the system and let it run for at least a week just to test it before I leave. Anyone have any comments/suggestions? Mainly on the sump size and how often should I be dripping additives? Thanks.
 
every 2 weeks will be fine. just do a water change every time and get a massive ato tank. you could even scale back your lights to help compensate. $200 for an ato is pretty high though, you can get them for half that. i don't use any additives ever so i doubt they're really required. just do water changes when you can. you might also want to add a drain line to your skimmer course then if it goes crazy it could empty your tank...
 
I haven't hooked up my skimmer yet, since I have no fish, I won't be using it until I get back. I was looking at the tunze osmolater since its virtually bullet proof, thats why its so expensive. Float switches often fail and I can't afford to take that risk while I'm away. I can't come back every week either. So running an extra large ATO container should be ok? What about a larger sump and drip additives?
 
wouldn't hurt right? i just dont see the point in worrying about the additives, especially if something went wrong adn it added all of it at once. so how does the osmolater work if its not on a float switch?
 
Either find an extremely good tank sitter to show up daily or rip down the tank. In a 4 month period you will forget to come home and check on the tank or it will have a malfunction. All tanks malfunction more often then once every 4 months.

Especially if you aren't at home. I would not even think of this. People stress daily about going away for a week.
 
I think it is quite possible to design a tank to reliably operate itself over such a long period. The problem is that it is not cheap to do so. Personally, I wouldn't leave a tank for an extended time without the following:

-A good reliable temperature controller to control heaters (which I don't trust by themselves), to turn on fans, and to turn off the lights and possibly any high wattage pump in case the temperature gets too hot.
-A reliable ATO system with redundancies. I feel that the air-pressure based ones are far more reliable than float valves. They are also reasonably cheaper than the Tunze Osmolator (and possibly more reliable). A good redundancy to use would be to have a very small pump (an aqualifter works well) that is hooked up to a timer so that it pulls a small amount of water from the freshwater reservoir each day - not enough to make up for evaporation completely. This way, if the ATO fails to kick on the regular top-off pump, the water level in your sump will decline much more slowly.
-A pump saver in case your ATO fails and the water level in your sump drops dangerously low. It might even be a good idea to have a level switch that turns off the pump if the water level in the sump gets too high. I think I've heard of more stories about freshwater ATO's pumping too much water into people's systems than stories about them failing to pump any. A switch that turns off the return pump when the level gets too high could prevent such a thing from happening.
-A reliable pH controller hooked to a kalk top-off unit. This will be rather important for long term separations from your tank, especially with an SPS tank. I personally would not rely on a calcium reactor to maintain the pH, alkalinity, and calcium of an SPS system without being in contact with the system frequently. Actually, even better than kalk would be a balanced, automatic two-part dosing system. Once you know how much your system demands in terms of alkalinity and calcium, such systems can very much be set and forget.
-Some sort of back-up power source to run circulation pumps. Some people use car batteries hooked up to power inverters, others use generators, still others make use of APCs. The key in this case would be to have something that will automatically turn on in the event of a power outage. APC's do this, but they don't do a good job with running AC pumps unless you get a top-of-the-line unit that simulates a good sine-wave current. However, I believe that they should be ok with running DC pumps (such as variable-speed Tunzes).

Some people even go so far as to hook up a controller like the ACIII to the internet so they can access real-time information about their tanks and control things remotely. One can also use a webcam to check up on things. This may seem radically over protective, but considering the amount of money people pour into their reefs, I think it is smart. I would do it if I were to be gone an entire summer.

If you can't afford implementing the safety measures I've mentioned (aside from internet monitoring), I think you really only have three choices. One, find someone reliable and reasonably intelligent to watch your tank for you. Two, find someone that is willing to place your corals in their system while you are gone. Or three, sell your corals and tear down your system until after the summer. IMO, only checking on your tank every two weeks is practically inviting catastrophe unless you have these safety measures. Even with them, I'd say that you still will want someone to keep tabs on your system. You still have a good amount of till the summer to figure it out, but I wouldn't wait too much longer. If you need to sell your corals, you'll find you'll probably need quite a bit of time to do so unless you're willing to give them away dirt cheap.
 
Thanks for all the responses. The tank will not be alone, there are other people in the house that if they see anything going wrong, they can call me and I can either come up to fix the problem or walk them through it. It's not like the tank is going in the dark for 3 months. Regardless, I'd like the tank to be fine on it's own for at least two weeks, until I periodically come back.

Also, I've gone a few days without even seeing the tank. Since I only have really hardy corals, LPS, softies, shrooms, zoos, palys couple clams etc, everything has been doing great with minimal maintanence. The tank has only been set up for 2 months, but it came from my tank from my old apt, so in reality, the tank has been set up for over two years. So my tank is really taking care of itself, I just top of the water every few days and add some calcium or whatever I feel like.

useskaforevil, the osmolater uses a infared laser instead of float valves. Heres a link:
http://www.tunze.com/149.html?&L=1&C=US&user_tunzeprod_pi1[predid]=-infoxunter036

jjmg, my brother is also in the hobby, but maybe comes over once a week, and that's usually because I am here. He really isn't good for much. I've mentioned him coming over and checking things.

drama, I've had at least 1 fish tank for over two years, so I am not about to get out of the hobby just because I won't be around that much for the summer. Especially when I finally have a good set up going, I've switched many many times (reef to FO etc).

aninjaatemyshoe, you make very good points and thank you for the detailed reply! My tank does not have any SPS in it, and really it wasn't that expensive to set up, coral wise. I got a lot of really good deals, most of my corals for free or dirt cheap, nice live rock for a buck a pound, etc etc. Regardless, I don't want to lose anything or have any problems. To me, I think my system is just as important/nice as other SPS systems that cost thousands, that's why I like my system, I'm not a fan of expensive twigs, haha.
I definitely will be getting an ATO, I was thinking the tunze since it is bullet proof but you mentioned an air pressured one. Have any links or more details? Never heard of that, I only knew about float valves until I found out about the tunze. My tank does not demand a whole lot, especially crazy additives. Everything seems to do great with just adding bottled additives (liquid calcium, coral accel, and zooplex) which I don't even know if that does anything at all. I have my corals growing out of control, my colts are going crazy, rics are splitting, RBTA getting bigger and bigger, mushrooms and zoos multplying like pods! So I think my system is pretty good, especially as far as adding any kalk or Ca reactors etc.
Temp will have to be monitored, I will get another heater and probably set it lower then the other heater and maybe even put it on a timer. The lights are already on a timer, so that is set. My main concern is the ATO. I add about 5-8g a week of water. So I want to get at least a 20g ATO container just in case, I'd prefer a 55g drum just incase I don't make it home some times.
Really, all I have been doing, is topping off water, I haven't done any testing in months, a water change in about 3 weeks (that's because I acclimated a new coral). My skimmer stopped working and I haven't hooked up my new octo200. Since I don't have any fish, and my tank is literally undisturbed, it takes care of it's self so to say. I just really need to get the water top of thing squared away, that's my main concern and I feel my only problem.

Anyone else have any thoughts/opinions? Especially after describing my system a little better? Thanks for everyone's help so far, keep it coming everyone!
 
drama, I've had at least 1 fish tank for over two years, so I am not about to get out of the hobby just because I won't be around that much for the summer. Especially when I finally have a good set up going, I've switched many many times (reef to FO etc).

It was just a joke... :D Sorry if you took it as an offense
I read numerous articles and am convinced that vacation and reef tank don't get along together.
 
I am not at all experienced in the topic of ato's, but I am going to be leaving my tank for a long time and this is what I have thought about doing.

Pumps can stop working and with an auto top off float valve style the motors get worn down easily, atleast i think. So I was planning on making my auto top off gravity fed so I didn't have to use a pump. I was just going to put a 55 gallon drum with a bulkhead drilled into the bottom on a stand that held it slightly higher than the sump. With this you run the risk of overflowing your sump if your float valve breaks. If you buy a heavy duty float valve though I wouldn't worry about it.

I am not very educated on this topic so if anyone reads this and thinks it's a bad idea please leave your advice.
 
It sounds like a good idea, but how would you allow the water to flow to the sump? What kind of valve would open and close that is electric? Usually from what I've seen/read, it isn't the pumps that fail, its the float valves. That is why I am leaning towards the tunze. People have been running them for 3+ years with no problems. I am only going away for 3 months, but will be back at least once a month to check on things. Plus I have people in my house that will at least look at the tank and know if something isn't right. I just have to justify the $200 when that could go towards the beach house.
 
The way I am thinking about doing is to have a hose attach to the float valve from the bulk head at the bottom of the water source, just like a pump would be.

Another option I have thought about is connecting the RO unit directly to a float valve.

There will people around my tank while I am gone so if it begins to overflow there will be someone there to turn off the ATO.
 
There is a way to put two float valves on the sump, one being the back up incase the first one breaks. I am just not sure how to do it.
 
The osmolator is great, I love mine. It uses an optical sensor to keep the level very accurate. It has a second float valve that detects if the water level gets too high and cuts the pump as well as sets off an alarm. The pumps will only run 10 seconds at a time. I would not trust a gravity fed ATO when I was away for any amount of time (especially if you need so many gallons of water in the tank).
 
drama, I knew it was a joke, no hard feelings. Your right though, reef tanks and vacation don't mix.

As far as the ATO goes, I think using the tunze will be my best bet with a large container. I am considering selling everything off though. As much as I'd hate to do it, it might be a better option for me giving my busy schedule situation.
 
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