Goniopora : Your Tricks n Tips

I bought the blue goni this weekend. The polyp are barely expanded. How many time should i wait until the polyp are going in full expension ?

There is a way to help it ?
 
The key with most goniopora is food. They require regular feedings up to a couple times a day for some species.

Some like the ora Goniopora can get away with less feedings. Some people say they do not need to be fed at all… I think it still benefits from feedings though.

The encrusting, red and short tentacle gonis seem to be the easiest. Goniopora stokesi is still near impossible to keep.

Good foods:
Dt’s Oyster eggs
Rotifers live or frozen
BBs
cyclopeeze

Most prefer medium back and forth flow.

As far as light it depends on the goni, Some come from very shallow water and prefer bright light and others like low light.
 
The key with most goniopora is food. They require regular feedings up to a couple times a day for some species.

Some like the ora Goniopora can get away with less feedings. Some people say they do not need to be fed at all… I think it still benefits from feedings though.

The encrusting, red and short tentacle gonis seem to be the easiest. Goniopora stokesi is still near impossible to keep.

Good foods:
Dt’s Oyster eggs
Rotifers live or frozen
BBs
cyclopeeze

My blue gonio is daily feeded with coral frenzy, phytoplankton or home-made mixture.

Everything seem ok after 17 days !
 
I bought the blue goni this weekend. The polyp are barely expanded. How many time should i wait until the polyp are going in full expension ?

There is a way to help it ?

Again depends on the goni. I have ones open up the same day and others a week.

You can try lowering the light levels it is getting. Your lighting could be more than it is used too and will cause it to expand very little.



Look at it at night.. some gonis only open at night.
 
Again depends on the goni. I have ones open up the same day and others a week.

You can try lowering the light levels it is getting. Your lighting could be more than it is used too and will cause it to expand very little.



Look at it at night.. some gonis only open at night.

It is always open under daylight now !
 
Finally i got picture of my blue gonio !

DSCF0771.JPG


Ty for your tips, my gonio is doing well !
 
I feed mine 3 times a week with cyclops. just be sure not to blast it with food as the tentacles will retract and not eat. lightly blow food on the tentacles and you will see them close up like a flower :) mine has been doing really well too but i'm not sure what kind it is. It's not ORA though.

DSC_1112.JPG


here's a pic of it eating
DSC_1125.JPG
 
i've had my green for about 2 years. i keep it in varied flow. on the sand.

i feed it smaller foods like rotifiers and coral frenzy. never spot fed though... always broadcast

it's about 8" in diameter but closes to just a big bigger than a golf ball

IMAG0077.jpg
 
LeLutinBanni, Lynnmw1208 and joemelo those are very pretty goni's.


joemelo
Two years is pretty good, you are doing a good job. Most that do not make it die between a year and a year and a half.

Becarefull of that elegance does not get too close. I am actually looking for one the same color as yours.
 
Hard to keep in with sps so if you want good success feed and go lps display do to goni do not do well in low nutrient systems.
 
Hard to keep in with sps so if you want good success feed and go lps display do to goni do not do well in low nutrient systems.

I disagree with this. High food and low nutrient environment is just fine and actually preferred for most species of goniopora. I have always kept my gonis in the same environment as sps. Only thing different is they can not handle the high flow that some sps need, it would damage them. I know lots of people that have kept gonis in their sps tanks that are many years old with no problems. There are a few exception were certain species of gonis do come from more nutrient rich waters and lagoons and prefer that.

The fallacy of gonis needing a nutrient rich tank came from many years ago when the few gonioporas that actually survived in a reef tank longer than a year to about a year and a half came from dirtier tanks. This in my opinion is because these tanks provided more food for the gonis like bacteria and plankton.
 
shred. i upgraded to a 250 gallon so they have plenty of room now, but they were like that for atleast 6 months in that tank.... about 1/2" from touching each other when fully expanded. closed up at night time and had close to a foot between them.
 
I dont mean to Hijack this thread but.... I have an ORA red Goni. I had it for 5 months then moved the tank it hasnt opened since. It opens in the morning before the lights come on but ony about1/8 of an inch long. It does how ever had a black algae growing on the skeletal ridges. I can pick it off but it comes back. The algae doesnt spread but seems to be a nuisance.... Any ideas on how to get rid of it?
 
I have had a red one with blue centers for a couple years now. I keep it in middle of tank on the bottom. Seems to like the girating water flow, not direct flow. Also, I don't feed anything in particular for it. Just whatever is left in the water from the fish feedings. With this said, I have read that the red gonis don't seem to need direct feedings since they are much less demanding than the other species of gonioporas.
 
I have had a red one with blue centers for a couple years now. I keep it in middle of tank on the bottom. Seems to like the girating water flow, not direct flow. Also, I don't feed anything in particular for it. Just whatever is left in the water from the fish feedings. With this said, I have read that the red gonis don't seem to need direct feedings since they are much less demanding than the other species of gonioporas.

Some Reds seem more hardy but color has nothing to do with feeding in my opinion. Species has more to do with it. Its like saying all geens are hard to keep.
 
I dont mean to Hijack this thread but.... I have an ORA red Goni. I had it for 5 months then moved the tank it hasnt opened since. It opens in the morning before the lights come on but ony about1/8 of an inch long. It does how ever had a black algae growing on the skeletal ridges. I can pick it off but it comes back. The algae doesnt spread but seems to be a nuisance.... Any ideas on how to get rid of it?



Sounds like your goni is not happy. The algae could be irritating it, is it a slime algae? Did the coral have the algae before you moved the tank?

Also did you move the coral in the tank when you moved the tank? I would try moving it. Very possible it could be getting to much current or to much light or both.

Goniopora are one of the most sensitive to light of any coral I have ever dealt with. Any increase in light and it takes them a while to open up or fully extend. You may want to try to move it to a area that has less light and see what happens. Corals expand (increase the surface area) themselves to absorb more light and contract when they have too much light.


To much flow will also cause them to contract. There polyps are extremely tender.


As far as the algae goes treat it like any other algae and get rid of the nutrients. I have never done it but allot of people do a hydrogen peroxide/tank water dip to get rid of algae on frags. Hydrogen peroxide raises the orp of the water and oxidizes anything so proceed with caution. I would maybe do that as a last resort and research it first. Here is video of Justin Credabel doing it on a goni frag.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4ITUzifk_4
 
Yeah no clearly the goni and myself are not happy :spin2: !

SO yes it looks sort of like a slime algae. The algae is only apparent on the goni. I have moved it and adjusted it a couple times to no avail. As for the attacking the nutrients i tested 0 phosphates and <10 nitrates...... but me being me i added a bag of phosphate remover a couple of days ago just to make sure i am at zero.
 
Yeah no clearly the goni and myself are not happy :spin2: !

SO yes it looks sort of like a slime algae. The algae is only apparent on the goni. I have moved it and adjusted it a couple times to no avail. As for the attacking the nutrients i tested 0 phosphates and <10 nitrates...... but me being me i added a bag of phosphate remover a couple of days ago just to make sure i am at zero.

Test your alkalinity levels. Mine react bad to lower alkalinity. Pretty tolerate of lower calcium but not alkalinity.

A phosphate level of 0 is impossible. It requires a good test kit that reads low enough like a hach or merck which are expensive. Most hobby test kits do not real low enough. Test kits only read orthophosphate. Also you will get lower readings because the algae is consuming the phosphate. Testing the tank for phosphate is pretty much useless, you have algae you have a phosphate issue except with dino's.
 
Back
Top