Good Quality heater suggestion?

[Capsle]

Hey Reefers,

So I need to replace my main DT heater as it heats up past whatever i set it to.

I would like to have a submersible on and one that can eventually hook up to a controller. I haven't decided what controller to go with yet but leaning towards APEX.

Any suggestions for heater and possibly a controller down the line?

Thanks in advance.

Caps

 

[TheFishGuy31]

I like my Apex a lot. It's really easy to program through Fusion.

I just bought a non-controlled Catalina Ti heater for my display & it's working well through my Apex. I also use an Inkbird Temp Controller connected to my Apex's Breakout Board to control the temp in my QT tank. (It was cheaper to use an Inkbird to monitor temperature vs buying a PM2, temp sensor, ect.)

 

[mcgyvr]

Aqueon Pro or Eheim Jager

 

[BigEZ77]

Cobalt Neo-Therm heater and Apex controller...I have a Jr which is relatively cost effective and does what I need.

 

[Bent]

Truthfully, I think all the submersible heaters available for the hobby suck. As to why no company has ever made a different type of heater is beyond me.

But the most reliable way if you don't have an apex is to buy a ranco and multiple heaters. Everyone likes the Eheim Jäger heaters, but after what happened to mine, I'll never recommend them to anyone.

I have a Rena cal top light that I've had for over 20 years that is still functional. And I have a finnex titanium heater now replacing that jäger. So far it's been good.

So, I think the MOST reliable way of operating these submersible heaters is by hooking multiple units up to a ranco, and then hooking the ranco up to an apex and the apex, of course, to a GFCI.

-Monitor the water temp with the apex for text alerts if the temp gets too high or too low.
-Shut off the heater if the temp gets too high.
-Monitor the power draw on the outlet in case one of the units starts to go bad.
-remote anytime access to current temp
-GFCI will prevent a fire or electrocuted fish.
-power out alert can be set up in case the GFCI trips.

However, if you don't have an apex, the ranco will work just fine, but some of the extra redundancies the apex provides are nice.

 

[Capsle]

Truthfully, I think all the submersible heaters available for the hobby suck. As to why no company has ever made a different type of heater is beyond me.

But the most reliable way if you don't have an apex is to buy a ranco and multiple heaters. Everyone likes the Eheim Jäger heaters, but after what happened to mine, I'll never recommend them to anyone.

I have a Rena cal top light that I've had for over 20 years that is still functional. And I have a finnex titanium heater now replacing that jäger. So far it's been good.

So, I think the MOST reliable way of operating these submersible heaters is by hooking multiple units up to a ranco, and then hooking the ranco up to an apex and the apex, of course, to a GFCI.

-Monitor the water temp with the apex for text alerts if the temp gets too high or too low.
-Shut off the heater if the temp gets too high.
-Monitor the power draw on the outlet in case one of the units starts to go bad.
-remote anytime access to current temp
-GFCI will prevent a fire or electrocuted fish.
-power out alert can be set up in case the GFCI trips.

However, if you don't have an apex, the ranco will work just fine, but some of the extra redundancies the apex provides are nice.

Thanks for the info.

I don't have an apex at the moment but do plan on getting one down the line. My tank is fairly new and so am I.

I doesn't require much at the moment, weekly WC and cleaning my cup. I was dosing mag for a bit but since I got my salinity up all parameters are good.

I figured once I need to start dosing multiple chemicals I'll head towards an apex, so I want to purchase according to my future plans instead of having to redo.


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[thegrun]

Be sure to test any new heater you purchase with a trusted thermometer. I keep a good lab grade thermometer on hand for just that purpose; it's not uncommon to see new heaters off by more than 4 degrees. Some like Eheim have an adjustable dial so you can calibrate it, with others you need to mentally add or subtract the margin of error when setting it up.

 

[Bent]

Thanks for the info.

I don't have an apex at the moment but do plan on getting one down the line. My tank is fairly new and so am I.

I doesn't require much at the moment, weekly WC and cleaning my cup. I was dosing mag for a bit but since I got my salinity up all parameters are good.

I figured once I need to start dosing multiple chemicals I'll head towards an apex, so I want to purchase according to my future plans instead of having to redo.

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In that case I would get two finnex titanium heaters without thermostats, wire up a ranco and run it that way.

Finnex Deluxe Titanium Heating Tube, 800W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0199W751Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BF2Wxb7JD3EDP

RANCO ETC-111000 Digital Cold Temperature Control NEW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015NV5BE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rG2WxbFSE5ZHB

 

[Capsle]

In that case I would get two finnex titanium heaters without thermostats, wire up a ranco and run it that way.



Finnex Deluxe Titanium Heating Tube, 800W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0199W751Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BF2Wxb7JD3EDP



RANCO ETC-111000 Digital Cold Temperature Control NEW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015NV5BE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rG2WxbFSE5ZHB

So two, one for DT and one for sump or both for DT?


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[nmotz]

+1 for Finnex titanium heaters, been good for me

 

[Bent]

So two, one for DT and one for sump or both for DT?


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I'd put both in the sump.

The reasoning for two is just for redundancy. If one of them fails, the other one will still be able to heat the water.

 

[Capsle]

I'd put both in the sump.



The reasoning for two is just for redundancy. If one of them fails, the other one will still be able to heat the water.

Not sure I have a high enough water level in sump.

Skimmer section has 9.5" and fuge has 12".

Return section is about 6-7".


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[Ou8me2]

Unfortunately after all these years is no heater that won't eventually fail. It's not a question of if it will fail, but when it will fail. Even the best of the best heaters can fail. You could probably do a search on the forum and see heater failures are fairly common.

 

[homer1475]

+1 for the finnex titanium heaters hooked up to an apex. Been working flawlessly for 2 years for me.

It's not if a heater can fail, it's a matters of when.

 

[Drewl117]

Truthfully, I think all the submersible heaters available for the hobby suck. As to why no company has ever made a different type of heater is beyond me.

But the most reliable way if you don't have an apex is to buy a ranco and multiple heaters. Everyone likes the Eheim Jäger heaters, but after what happened to mine, I'll never recommend them to anyone.

What happened to your Eheim?

 

[Bent]

Not sure I have a high enough water level in sump.

Skimmer section has 9.5" and fuge has 12".

Return section is about 6-7".


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It's ok, they are fully submersible, you can lay them in.

What happened to your Eheim?

The cord going to the top of the unit fully disconnected from the body putting essentially a live electrical cord loose in the water. Near electrocuted my fish and could have gotten me.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2585423&highlight=heat

 

[Buddy55]

I love love my fluval e series heater. It looks good in the tank. Somewhat blends. I was against heaters in the display but the digital read out is nice. It is the most accurate heater I have ever used. I have a redundant heater set lower in temp in the sump as well.

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[zsuman101]

Eheim.