"Green Water"

Redstratplayer

New member
Not reallyabout breeding ( maybe some rots) but you guys probobly know the most about it.

If i wanted to dose my tank with "Green Water" what is best?

Nannochloropsis

Isochrysis

Tetraselmis

Nannochloropsis sp., Isochrysis sp., Tetraselmis sp., and Pavlova (its a mix)

Pavlova



From /www.brineshrimpdirect.coml
 
What do you have in your tank....Might make a difference. Read the sticky at the top of this form from the Doc.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9152766#post9152766 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by embryoguy
i use nothing :) its all about lighting! if you get your lighting right you do not need phyto.

This comment is wrong for many different reasons. If you have phyto feeding critters in the tank, then yes you'll need to dose phyto. All the lighting in the world isn't going to change that. Our tanks do not culture phyto on their own. They can't. Too many zooplankton in the water column constantly eating any phyto in the water.

Out of those strains listed I think the pavlova is gonig to be the best as far as nutrition is concerned but I would recommend a mix of the pav, iso, tet, and n. oculata.
 
How is it wrong if it works?

ive had the best survival rate without using phyto. i also know another breeder that has beautiful clowns withing using it also. i siphon out the rotifers daily and add fresh.

so again how is that wrong? if it works?

do i recommend most people doing it? definetly not but what im saying is that it does work and its not 100% necessary to use it.

thanks for enlighing me. i thought fish tanks grow there own phyto spontaneously.
 
I´ve read about other species larvae doing well without phyto. Advantages and disadvantages in any of them as expected ;)

Embryoguy, how often do you feed rots to the larvae ? And how much ? (if there is an easy way to answer this :D)

Anderson.
 
to be honest, im a very novice breeder. approx. 2 months.

ive been documenting my protocols very carefully and trying to change isolated variables since my first hatch. my survival rate was only about 25% for the first three batches. but since ive stoped using phyto and changed my lighting to this 5wt light, its worked well for me.

i also do 50% broodstock, slow drip daily. no salinity drop. i have a 24hr drip of broodstock from the moment the larvae are collected. i feed the rotifers about 2 hrs before i add them to the larvae tank.

in addition, my larvae are only in a gallon of water until past meta.

i siphon out 1-2 times daily and take out the "old" rotifers with the siphon and add fresh rotifers 1-2 times back. i always make sure i feed the rotifer tanks atleast a couple hrs prior to induction.

with my most recent hatch, approx. 500, ive only lost about 25 larvae and im on day 5. with the first three hatches i lost hundreds within the days 2-5 with phyto.

i ve lost no babies to thru meta.

this protocol works for me bec i can not figure out how much phtyo to add without hurting the larvae. so since i can get a great survival rate, and since culturing phyto is a hassle, i m more than happy this works for me.

again do i recommend this? no, but all im saying is that you DO NOT 100% need phyto.

what ive learned thru this forum and breeder freinds is that there are many many ways to culture clowns.

gimp your concrete comment is your own opinion and im sure youve been very succesful with your process. i do not like to confine my thoughts within defined boundaries. if i could grow larave in a cup of water i would do it.
 
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The original question was asking about using phyto in his reef tank, not for raising clownfish larvae.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9165261#post9165261 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by phender
The original question was asking about using phyto in his reef tank, not for raising clownfish larvae.

Thank you phender. :D
 
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