H. Zosterae 5g tank plan

[naiyuwong]

Posting here a message I sent to the user rayjay so I can get a major rate of critics and suggestions. They're all welcome.

I've been reading your posts/replies like crazy and acquiring information as much as possible during months and slowly building a tank safe enough for dwarves. I'm not planning to get any of them until my tank is totally safe (a couple months or some more)
I'm texting you to describe you pretty much what I'm planning to do, and if you have any critics or recommendations, they're going to be more than welcome.
- Aquarium: Marineland Contour 5g
- Sand: Caribsea Instant Aquarium (not sure if it will still need to be cured by boiling?)
- Filter: The aquarium has a hidden 3-stage filter. Im improving it with carbon/phosphate and silicate sponge, de-nitrate media, biofilter media (g-nodes) and always keeping filter sponges replacements.
- Aerator: Tetra whisper 10G
- Protein skimmer
- Oxidator (I've read a lot of people use them to provide better oxygen, I still don't know how necessary it is, but looks helpful so Im highly considering it)
- Deco: Thinking about a small live rock cured for bio filtration, but not too complex so It won't create hidden spots, and a fake thing boiled 2-3 times to kill bacteria and particles the best I can.
- Macroalgae: How necessary it is? Im not sure if the led could be enough, I don't know the intensity or if the CO2 they'll get will be enough. Barely considering.
- CUC: A couple snails (don't know which one would work best still, I'll keep researching). Considering a couple sexy shrimp.
- Heater if necessary: To keep it between 72-75F
- Water conditioners: Got KENT essential elements. Liquid calcium (I think it won't be necessary at all, just in case). Pro ammonia detox KENT. Salt Mix. I'll buy the saltwater to start from Petco.
- Testing equipment: pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, calcium, phosphate. Hygrometer, thermometer.
- Nutrition: BS enrichment. Copepods. Phytoplankton. BS. (alive). Going to hatch often.
- Cleaning equipment: Magnet if necessary.
Will check extra carefully for critters, will cycle 40 days. Going to start with 4-6 ponies.
That's all. I've sincerely never ever had a marine tank, but I have over 8 years experience with almost any kind of freshwater fish, and I understand the water cycle and parameters perfectly. What I don't know too much yet is about macro algae, because I've never worked with them.
For babies I'm not sure if I should get a breeder cage and stick a little fake deco to make them hang on them, so I can inject food directly and they'll be CUC safe and still on the same aquarium. This just to keep a higher fry survival range.
Am I doing it OK by now?"

Thanks to you all in advance

 

[cjm3]

Hey naiyuwong--

I'm an experienced DSH keeper going back awhile. A few years ago I was keeping three different 10g tanks and two to four 5.5g ones for my DSH.
I'm presently planning a couple new tanks.

The size tank you're planning will be fine, so is the filter.
If you plan to use a 'live sand' boiling it will kill of the bacteria that you've paid extra for. The instructions are say we shouldn't even rinse--just put it directly in the tank.
Now I've been involved in a discussion where some of us are debating the use of packaged 'live sand'. Many have reported that they still have to go through a "normal" length cycle when they've used it. I can't see the additional cost of packaged 'live sand' when I wouldn't notice any benefit.

As for your Deco:
I never recommend "live rock" in a DSH tank. If someone is going to boil the heck out of it they are killing off the beneficial bacteria on the near-surface. I always recommend some of that fake volcano/lava rock. I've used the ones with a flat bottom and arched, with an opening through it. I break those up and pile them up around my tanks.
Any plactic plants, I've just rinsed them really well and that's fine.
Macro algae is nice but not necessary.
CUC is a choice. Every DSH tank should have some but there are many different ones you can use. Nassarius, cerith, and dwarf planaxis are really good. I'd say mixing a couple to equal 10 for your tank.
If you can find any small spaghetti worm, micro stars, or mini brittles another 10 of these would be great.

As the cycle completes you can 'seed' the tank with several different kinds of copepods. AVOID having/adding amphipods! Tigriopus seem to be causing problems too.
Adding some mysid shrimp is a good idea too. They will help the CUC and their babies will be very good food for the DSH.

Temperature: many of us DSH keepers are starting think that temps of 72*(f) or lower are best.

Your testing ideas are fine.

Cycling doesn't always happen "on schedule". I've been reading some posts about difficult cycles taking twice as long as 'normal'...or longer. And of course we have to alert for the "second cycling" that can happen in a smaller tank.

A tank of your size can house more than 20 DSH. I'd start with the 6, maybe 8 and see how many of the babies reach adulthood. DSH are extremely small animals but as long as the tank is safe you can just leave the babies in with the adults. No need for breeder traps/nets/cage. Having them in one could actually reduce survival rate.

The other equipment, skimmer and oxidator seem OK. I've never use either but I am looking into adding skimmers to my next tanks. Oxydator, I'm still on the wall about using them.

Other than those minor things, your plans seem just fine.

If you have any other questions I'll try to help, and I'm sure others will too.

Chuck

 

[faith04]

Some good info here, tagging along!

 

[cjm3]

Any update, naiyuwong?
Curious to see how you tank is coming along.

Chuck