help me buy a DSLR set

alright, now Im happy again I debated getting the L series macro that has the IS or not, decided to save myself 1K and get the regular one, good to hear it was a good save :)

Im gonna pick up a set of Kenko ext tubes and see how those work out. my main and only reason for getting a DSLR was taking super macro shots, so ...

now trying to adjust the white balance .... :S and Im color blind .lol

I was thinking, if I place a white plastic in tank, and take a pic of it, and then apply white balance in raw image to make that plastic white again,. would that setting for white balance be exactly what I need to apply to all my pics taken under the same lighting ? need some consistancy with this, so I Can compare pics later on.
 
Or just read the book I mentioned, or read any number of threads already here.

Adjust your WB in post.
The easiest way to do that is to use a WB tool available in most editors. You click on something thats white and voila.........or click on something thats color nuetral (where R,G,B channels all have the same value) or simply eyeball until the white thing ( a stripe on your fish) is looking white. Depending on the lighting at the time (it can change) you will begin to know after enough images that you want 12k, 15k etc and a green/magenta hue of X

The hardest part (atleast for me at this stage) is my lack of familiarity with "true" color representation. Meaning as yet, I don't have the experience to know when the reds in my pics are the reds in my tank, or the greens on my wrasse pic are the greens on my wrasse.
 
Also, your camera should allow you to choose between standard (luminance) and RGB (red, green, blue) histograms. Learn to pay attention to the blue histogram. The lights we use are very heavy on blue and while the standard histogram may look fine, often the blue channel is clipped (overexposed). It's not always apparent in the normal histogram as it's an averaging of the three graphs.

This is a graphic I use in a presentation for beginning clients. It's very simple, and may not look remotely like what you see, but pay attention to the left and right edges. If the graph appears cut-off on either end there's a problem with your exposure. The blue-clipping comment I made would look something like the over-exposed version while the red/green may look like the average exposure version.

It pays to watch all three, especially with reef tank lighting.

histograms.png


If you get the white balance nailed but the blue channel is clipped - the picture is still going to have issues.
 
I see, very cool guys, thanks alot :)

so here is what I learned in todays lesson :
red millie with macro shot.
Iso 800
1/125
F7.1
<a href="http://s1084.photobucket.com/albums/j416/bigray1002/?action=view&current=redmillie.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j416/bigray1002/redmillie.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

and then white balance applied [same settings from another pic]
and cropped
<a href="http://s1084.photobucket.com/albums/j416/bigray1002/?action=view&current=redmillie-WBtrue.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j416/bigray1002/redmillie-WBtrue.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


not bad ! my white balance is still not right though. I applied it to a blue SPS, and it turned green ! so will have to work on it more tonight.

off to go buy the book and maybe a set of tubes ...+

hmmm on secnd thoughts the blue coral is much higher in tank, hence more light, so I gues not the same white balance ... will play around iwth it.
 
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