Help me not ruin the floor...
- Thread starter Spicer
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Gorgok
New member
No.
Problem with putting something on top is its actually worse than not having anything usually. Tight fitting flat things have a tendency to exhibit capillary action and draw any spills deeper, insulate spills preventing harmless evaporation, and be impossible to clean.
Elevate the stand with feet to make cleaning under it as easy as possible and be diligent about cleaning.
Problem with putting something on top is its actually worse than not having anything usually. Tight fitting flat things have a tendency to exhibit capillary action and draw any spills deeper, insulate spills preventing harmless evaporation, and be impossible to clean.
Elevate the stand with feet to make cleaning under it as easy as possible and be diligent about cleaning.
Just a different spot in the house, where my current tank isnt set up. Sorry that was unclear.
What do you guys suggest to elevate the stand?
sfsuphysics
Active member
How large is the tank? You really want to make sure every piece of the stand that is contact with the floor stays contacted to the floor via whatever you use to elevate the stand. Meaning if the stand is engineered to have the entire perimeter touch the ground, putting a couple 2x4s under the outside edges to have a "gap" under tank is asking for trouble.
You could also use those drainage tiles they use in wet areas like restaurants and what not. Here's an example
Drainage tiles
I'm sure you could find them cheaper elsewhere but this could be a good first step.
You could also use those drainage tiles they use in wet areas like restaurants and what not. Here's an example
Drainage tiles
I'm sure you could find them cheaper elsewhere but this could be a good first step.
These look very interesting...
Its a 60g + 20g sump + 10g topoff.
So im estimating 550 lbs.
Its floating wood.
woodnaquanut
Active member
Probably the best way to protect the floor is don't spill water! Have a big towel on the floor whenever you are working on the tank. This works for the drippy stuff.
If you have a big spill/flood, there is no real way to protect the floor. For the floating wood floor, water will get down between/under the floor and it will suffer. If you can get extra flooring and store it till you move the tank, that would be best.
If you can make your stand watertight so it can hold an inch or so, you might be able to weather a small flood. There are water alarm devices that can alert you to the rising waters.
If you have a big spill/flood, there is no real way to protect the floor. For the floating wood floor, water will get down between/under the floor and it will suffer. If you can get extra flooring and store it till you move the tank, that would be best.
If you can make your stand watertight so it can hold an inch or so, you might be able to weather a small flood. There are water alarm devices that can alert you to the rising waters.
MickeyDime53
New member
Wouldnt that be closer to 900 pounds? Just in water alone?
One gallon o' water be 10 pounds. Not counting the glass and stand.
One gallon o' water be 10 pounds. Not counting the glass and stand.
uncleof6
Active member
When setting up a tank, plan on 8.5 lbs per gallon of water. Weight can go from 10 lbs per gallon up, but that does not include the weight of the stand, how much rock you actually put in the tank, plus pump, and other equipment. But you are looking at a good 1000 lbs by the time it is done. Eh, that is a small load, in terms of load.
Realisticllay, regardless of the weight, the only way you won't damage the hardwood floor, is by not putting water in the tank. Anything between the stand and the floor, is going to get water under it eventually, and damage the floor. Keeping the stand "footprint" small (just the legs in contact with the floor) will minimize the damage, to four size of the leg areas, rather than size of what ever you put under the legs to protect the floor.
When faced with a hardwood floor, I would cut the floor out (face it, some of these floors are worth 100000 dollars) and tile the tank area. Actually raising the value of the property... (very subjective I must admit)
Realisticllay, regardless of the weight, the only way you won't damage the hardwood floor, is by not putting water in the tank. Anything between the stand and the floor, is going to get water under it eventually, and damage the floor. Keeping the stand "footprint" small (just the legs in contact with the floor) will minimize the damage, to four size of the leg areas, rather than size of what ever you put under the legs to protect the floor.
When faced with a hardwood floor, I would cut the floor out (face it, some of these floors are worth 100000 dollars) and tile the tank area. Actually raising the value of the property... (very subjective I must admit)
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SGT_York
New member
There is no way to save (floating floors, purgo MDF style) it could be engineered which would be doable. If you intend to keep the condo go with uncle's advice with tile. That way you won't need to move the tank to replace the flooring. Keep a box of it so you can replace the tile when you sell.
The main question is are you putting this much weight on a concrete floor or on a rafter wooden floor, the weight advice of using only the legs in contact is great for a concrete floor but could be disastrous in an older condo with thinner plywood or planked flooring. Where there isn't the support between the rafters.
If it is on a wooden floor butild the stand with contact along the length of the stand on the bottom. keep the width of the stand open for some air flow will evaporate off the water. That will support your wooden floor along the rafters and keep the floors from moisture saturation.
I have tried and tried, but have yet to run a tank for years without at least spilling once. Last time my new bucket broke in my hand and crashed a few gallons onto the floor. (wife was happy about that one) Better to plan for the worst and hope for the best.
The main question is are you putting this much weight on a concrete floor or on a rafter wooden floor, the weight advice of using only the legs in contact is great for a concrete floor but could be disastrous in an older condo with thinner plywood or planked flooring. Where there isn't the support between the rafters.
If it is on a wooden floor butild the stand with contact along the length of the stand on the bottom. keep the width of the stand open for some air flow will evaporate off the water. That will support your wooden floor along the rafters and keep the floors from moisture saturation.
I have tried and tried, but have yet to run a tank for years without at least spilling once. Last time my new bucket broke in my hand and crashed a few gallons onto the floor. (wife was happy about that one) Better to plan for the worst and hope for the best.
