help me think this through - going RR on a 30long

[jacksonpt]

I'm giving some pretty serious thought to upgrading my 12g aquapod to a 30long. I've got the perfect place for it and recently found (was shown on ebay) a pretty good deal on T5 lighting, so it appears that the planets are lining up for this one.

So anyways... if I pull the trigger, the tank will be 30long. I've got a little "cutout" in my foyer at the bottom of the stairs that will fit the tank perfectly - perhaps a little to perfectly because I'm not sure the spot is deep enough to run return lines in through the back of the tank. That is, I'm not sure I have enough room to run plumbing behind the tank. I haven't done any measuring yet to be sure, but it'll be tight at best.

Assuming that's the case, the question then becomes: How do I run all the plumbing (1-2 overflows/stand pipes and 3-4 return lines) without cluttering up the tank?

I have some ideas, but I want to hear what you all think first. I know there are some good setups and some skilled/experienced people on the board, and I don't want my ideas to shape/influence your ideas/suggestions.

TIA.

 

[fatrip]

well first off, what t-5 lighting on ebay???let use see the product. second, is the tank going to be RR or are you drilling it to make it RR? also what is the demensions of the whole in you foyer, will there be room at the end of the tank to put plubing and then builda frame to hide it?

also you could probibly go with just one 1inch over flow. as well as 1 return line to cut down on the clutter in the tank. at most 2 of each.

 

[jacksonpt]

The tank will not be drilled when I get it.

The tank will be a mixed reef - softies, LPS, SPS so the goal is a lot of flow without much "direct flow" which is why I was initially thinking more lower volume return lines rather than one or two higher pressure ones.

 

[fatrip]

i suppose that would be an option. how far below the tank will the sump be? This would be pend the size pump you would need if you are goin to split it 3 ways. that will be alot of head preassure on the pump because you will have to use 2 T connectors. I would suggest 1 or 2 outputs and a large powerhead to make random flow in the tank. Maybe a Hydor #3.

i would say to do this

This will make the least amount of clutter in the tank. if you ave the room to do it on the back that would be good but if not i would go from the side.

 

[jacksonpt]

Tank will be on the usual sort of stand with the sump basically on the floor. Head pressure will have to allow for about 4' of vertical.

 

[fatrip]

gotcha, i would say that you are probibly goin to have about 5-5.5 feet of head pressure after the 2 T connectors and depending on how you put it into the tank. i would say you probibly want about 300 gph so i would get something like a Mag 5 or equivlent, maybe a quiet one pump or an ehiem 1060. all good pumps but the latter two use alot less wattage.

 

[jacksonpt]

If I do go with 4ish return lines, I was thinking about running 2 return pumps - then I could tie the 2 outer returns to one pump and the inner returns to another. Would make it much easier to vary the pressure coming from each line, time them for wave-like effects, etc.

Also, and this my be insignificant, but I plan on not using any T-connectors. I'll use two 45s when needed to try to prevent flow slowdown due to "constricting" 90* angles.

So, am I overthinking this yet?

And yes, 300gph at a minimum.

 

[fatrip]

you need to use a T connector to be able to split it from the pumps single out to a duel output. i guess that would work. but i wouldnt put it on a wave timer, too noisy and not needed with 2 pumps and 4 outputs you can make some decent random flow so no real need for a wave effect.

but back to the lights which ones are you getting from ebay. there arnt to many good things for sale new on ebay as far as great deals. Most are too good to be true and they usually are lacking crucial things that make the t-5 lighting work well in our tanks.

 

[daveverdo]

You will have to use a T or Y to split the return unless you use separate pumps. Don't make too much of a deal about the 45s vs 90s on a short run it doesn't make much of a difference. Use whatever is easier. If you check the head loss calculator here at RC you will see that for some application a 90 is better than 2 45s. Use one size bigger pipe and the effects of the elbows, unions, tees are minimized.

I had a 30 long and think you may be overdoing it a little. It isn't that big of a tank. Two returns and a powerhead on a timer may be all you need. The Hydors are a little big but move a lot of water without a direct jet. You could also use a single return with a spray bar type of setup. Just have a pvc pipe run along the inside back of the tank with holes drilled at different angles. I haven't done this but have see several tanks using this method.

Also, you could use a closed loop to get more flow. It would mean more plumbing. If the space is tight a single spray bar setup may be the best option.

BTW I have a brand new, never used, Velocity T1 pump that would be great for your setup if you are looking for an external pump. One of the quietest pumps you will find.

Dave

 

[Piazzon12]

I would worry about 90's on the returns but I would definately use 45's on the drains for quietness, or use flex hose.
As far as he wall goes, you can run the drains and returns up through the bottom of the tank (like most commercial RR tanks).
Also, (if you are looking for quiet) I wouldnt run too much flow through the overflows/sump... you really don't need that much flow through the sump. You're better off with a closed loop or power heads.

 

[jacksonpt]

For the lighting...

I was looking at this on ebay. However, once I buy bulbs for it, it doesn't seem much cheaper than this from the good doctors.

I'd probably run one of them along with the 70w halide from my current tank, at least to get me going. Eventually I'd like to keep the halide over the nano as a frag tank, but it'll be a while before I'm ready to run both tanks.

 

[fatrip]

i dont think drilling threw the bottom is a good idea. All 30g tanks that arnt custom made are tempered on the bottom. this usually results in a nice big POP ing sound and glass goes everywhere...lol...

 

[jacksonpt]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12401130#post12401130 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fatrip
i dont think drilling threw the bottom is a good idea. All 30g tanks that arnt custom made are tempered on the bottom. this usually results in a nice big POP ing sound and glass goes everywhere...lol...

grrr - if that's the case, then this project is basically dead in the water. *sigh*

 

[daveverdo]

If you haven't seen a GLO fixture, they have some at the City Zoo in Horseheads. I haven't opened a box to see what they look like but I wouldn't expect much. The other one only has a single reflector. I have one on my 20g and it lights the tank but you don't get the full benefit of T5s with individual reflectors. Also, there isn't enough room to add reflectors later if wanted.

If you go with a retro-fit light you could make a 2 x 36" T5HO for less $100 depending on the bulbs you choose. That is only about $10 more than the one from Drs F&S.


Dave

 

[fatrip]

LIGHTING....first off it is made by hagen. not the greatest manufacturer of anything... Second it Doesnt have individual parabolic reflectors, it has one big reflector. Third it doesnt have a fan to cool the end caps. fourth over a 30 gallon tank i would go with 4 bulbs.

you dont want to skimp on the lighting. you want to start with the best that you can get and not work up to a better fixture. this will help you eliminate alot of hasel. with that fixture you wont have nearly enough output. We had the same problem at the zoo with not enought bulbs as well as the right spectrums.

as well that fixture from fosters is Junk to for the exact same reason the hagen is. You will grow lots of nice algea with those 2 fixtures. ...let me look around and ill show you some decent fixtures for a 36" tank.

 

[fatrip]

ATI This is one of the best fixture you can get just so you can see price wise the difference.

Tek fixtures are ok but they dont have fans and were originally designed for hydroponics where there is usually alot of air movment to help cool them.

aquatinic This is a good set up almost the same as Tek but they have put fans in for cooling.

But after all Your best bet would be to use a canopy and put a 4 bulb retro fit kit in it. This is the most cost effective way because as you can see fixtures are very high priced... I would go with the ICE CAP retro, but do the components like Parabolic reflector, water proof end caps and stand offs. then get a T-5 workhorse or eqivelent ballast. much cheeper than the IC. also i would invest in some good silent computer fans.

 

[jacksonpt]

OK, thanks for the info.

I'm dumping this project - I can't afford the lighting and the plumbing isn't going to work out as I had hoped.

 

[fatrip]

Thats a bummer. i am sorry to ruin your plans. but i didnt want to see you do it wrong and break the tank or have lighting that would make more problems for you...i feel bad. im srry..

 

[jacksonpt]

Don't feel bad - I've been in this position before where I couldn't afford to do things right (I've gone the route of cutting corners then scrambling to fix things before, not doing it again).

I was hoping that it might be different this time because I could use so much of my current stuff, but it's just not the time.

 

[drbronx]

I just purchased this baby for my 30 gallon office tank. http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...uct_Code=CU-USA01121&Category_Code=Current-T5 I couldn't be happier nor could my corals (SPS, softies, LPS). It's ver bright, quiet, well built. Features internal fans, built in timers so only one exiting power chord, night lights with two colored lenses (white or blue) acrylic splash guard and mounting legs. Incredible price. I couldn't be happier. Just a thought.