I am going to move beyond what I now consider my beginner tank (54 corner, 130 watt pc lighting, no sump), and start a new tank. So, I am newbie all over again. It looks like I will be getting a 118 gallon corner with overflow. I am thinking of an ASM G3 skimmer and about 600 watts of MH/PC lighting. I have no idea about sumps - do I make it myself? buy one? Where? Any details or links to info appreciated. I still have to paint the living room and get the floor in, then the tank will come - figure about two weeks. Maybe I'll start a thread for the process?
Help please
- Thread starter Neurotech
- Start date
keefsama2003
In Memoriam
is the stand standard with the tank or are you building the stand if your building the stand you can make the sum/fuge if you like if its standard then you have to work a little with it.
my first tank the 90 was all standard so i was a bit limited to what i could put under it.
my tank now the 300 its all custom so i would say go with what you saw as lacking and build from there if you can fit a 55 under then do that and partition it out with a mini fuge in the center have the tank drain into the skimmer chamber then baffle it into the fuge then baffle into the spot where the return pump is located.
my first tank the 90 was all standard so i was a bit limited to what i could put under it.
my tank now the 300 its all custom so i would say go with what you saw as lacking and build from there if you can fit a 55 under then do that and partition it out with a mini fuge in the center have the tank drain into the skimmer chamber then baffle it into the fuge then baffle into the spot where the return pump is located.
Thanks for the response. The stand will be standard with the tank. No way a 55 will fit under a 118 corner.
118 gallon: Approximate overall dimension: 50"L x 35"W x 70"H. Tank height: 30"
Pardon the newbieness, but
1) I can pick whatever size tank I can fit (bigger the better), right?
2) Will it have to be drilled?
3)Where do I get baffles? (not that I didn't start out baffled) (sorry).
4) With a fuge, I will have to keep it lit?
and (don't laugh)....
5) What makes sure that all the water doesn't leak out of my tank and throughout my house?
Thanks again - any and all advice welcomed. I can't wait to get this thing started.
118 gallon: Approximate overall dimension: 50"L x 35"W x 70"H. Tank height: 30"
Pardon the newbieness, but
1) I can pick whatever size tank I can fit (bigger the better), right?
2) Will it have to be drilled?
3)Where do I get baffles? (not that I didn't start out baffled) (sorry).
4) With a fuge, I will have to keep it lit?
and (don't laugh)....
5) What makes sure that all the water doesn't leak out of my tank and throughout my house?
Thanks again - any and all advice welcomed. I can't wait to get this thing started.
Vinny Kreyling
Premium Member
some answers
some answers
1- The bigger the better as long as you have room to work and REMEMBER some space for ballasts & other hardware.
2-You can use a submersible return pump and not drill the sump.
3- Baffles will be made to fit in the size you desire for your application.
4- You do not HAVE to light a sump.
5-The height of the overflow box determines how much water will drain from the tank when the pump is off.
This in turn determines the height of water level in the sump for normal operation (leave room for the water to drain or water on the floor is a certainty).
This is also where your water level fluctuations will show up.
The pump will always keep the main tank full as long as there is enough water in the sump.
Hope that helps.
some answers
1- The bigger the better as long as you have room to work and REMEMBER some space for ballasts & other hardware.
2-You can use a submersible return pump and not drill the sump.
3- Baffles will be made to fit in the size you desire for your application.
4- You do not HAVE to light a sump.
5-The height of the overflow box determines how much water will drain from the tank when the pump is off.
This in turn determines the height of water level in the sump for normal operation (leave room for the water to drain or water on the floor is a certainty).
This is also where your water level fluctuations will show up.
The pump will always keep the main tank full as long as there is enough water in the sump.
Hope that helps.
Fragmented 99
Member
Seems like alot of light for the tank. I have a 120 48X24X24 with a 250 watt MH and SPS are gright and colorful. 600 watt sounds like overkill
eboonaman
In Memoriam
Am I correct you only have one 250 watt mh? That sound like so little. I have 2 150 w MH + 100 w actinic pc and I want to upgrade to 2 -250 w mh because I think it's not enough light for my 120 g (same dimensions).
so there is hope for me and sps huh?
chuck
Neuro.. Vinny has it down pat..listen to him. also the" reef aquarium vol 3" by sprung and "coral propagation" by calfo are two good books that will also help you in setting up.
Thanks everyone for the responses. Vinny: I just had several "AHA" moments. but how do I set the height of the water in the sump? The way I picture it, the sump will fill as the water is pumped via the return, and flows over the overflow. When the return pump goes off,then, only the amount in the overflow will flow down. So, how do I leave enough room in the sump for that amount of water?
This is great, after all these years I am starting to get the sump thing.
Also:
"3- Baffles will be made to fit in the size you desire for your application." Where can I get them made?
And...Vinny and Chuck and anyone else - how about some debate and discussion regarding the amount of light I should have? I do want to be able to finally do SPS and clams.
PS - If anyone is thinking about getting rid of 150-200 lbs of good LR soon, you may have a buyer. Sand donations will be gladly and humbly accepted.
This is great, after all these years I am starting to get the sump thing.
Also:
"3- Baffles will be made to fit in the size you desire for your application." Where can I get them made?
And...Vinny and Chuck and anyone else - how about some debate and discussion regarding the amount of light I should have? I do want to be able to finally do SPS and clams.
PS - If anyone is thinking about getting rid of 150-200 lbs of good LR soon, you may have a buyer. Sand donations will be gladly and humbly accepted.
cb747
Active member
Baffles you can make out of plexiglass or even regular glass and silicone them in place to make your partitions. As for your lighting i think its more than adequate and LIPA will love you even more 
Keep your eyes peeled in the buying and selling forum here and also join the manhattan reefs message board and look there as well. www.manhattanreefs.com
Keep your eyes peeled in the buying and selling forum here and also join the manhattan reefs message board and look there as well. www.manhattanreefs.com
Vinny Kreyling
Premium Member
Sump height setting
Sump height setting
1- Fill the tank until the overflow box starts to drain water into the sump.
2-Fill sump 1/2 way and start up the system. Keep an eye on the sump and add water if necessary so the pump stays under the water. DO NOT fill real high.
3-When everything is running at the level you want in the main tank (determined by the height of the teeth in the overflow box) mark the water level in the sump with a piece of tape then shut the system down.
More water will drain than what the overflow holds. MUCH MORE
4- When the tank stops draining back into the sump measure the difference in the water heights.
This is how much extea height you MUST HAVE available in the sump to prevent an overflow.
If the level running is 5"running and 10"off you must have room for 5" of water to drain back.
Run the sump then at a level that will leave room for another
6"-7"of water leaving a slight safety margin of 2".
If you add sand or equiptment into the sump later on remember they will increase your level.
Lighting can be done various ways. I suggest you look at similar depth tanks and decide. SPS will require more light though.
Sump height setting
1- Fill the tank until the overflow box starts to drain water into the sump.
2-Fill sump 1/2 way and start up the system. Keep an eye on the sump and add water if necessary so the pump stays under the water. DO NOT fill real high.
3-When everything is running at the level you want in the main tank (determined by the height of the teeth in the overflow box) mark the water level in the sump with a piece of tape then shut the system down.
More water will drain than what the overflow holds. MUCH MORE
4- When the tank stops draining back into the sump measure the difference in the water heights.
This is how much extea height you MUST HAVE available in the sump to prevent an overflow.
If the level running is 5"running and 10"off you must have room for 5" of water to drain back.
Run the sump then at a level that will leave room for another
6"-7"of water leaving a slight safety margin of 2".
If you add sand or equiptment into the sump later on remember they will increase your level.
Lighting can be done various ways. I suggest you look at similar depth tanks and decide. SPS will require more light though.
LFSmarineguy
New member
Neuro, just as an FYI if that tank is from the company I think it is the craftsmanship is shoddy at best. Inspect the seams they are sometimes VERY wide and filled in with silicone. Also, check the overflow to make sure it's a double wall. The company I know of only does a single wall with slots at the bottom middle and top, which is just a glorified strainer at that point. Check the tank before you buy it!!!!! If it is from this company then pass on it. It will only be a huge headache.
LFSmarineguy,
What store do you work at?
Here is the link to the company -
http://www.4fishtank.com/ov_corner.htm
Is that the one you were thinking of? What kind of trouble do you think the overflow would give me?
What store do you work at?
Here is the link to the company -
http://www.4fishtank.com/ov_corner.htm
Is that the one you were thinking of? What kind of trouble do you think the overflow would give me?
