Help with Full Tank Shots

MichaelW

MichaelW

New member
Here is a recent FTS I took and I'm looking for pointers in how to improve them. I can see that the pic is not quite in focus and details don't show too well.
I was using a programmed Auto setting on my Nikon. I dropped the exposure a couple clicks but I guess the auto focus just isn't cutting it? I adjusted the image slightly using the photobucket editing tools (I have never used photoshop or lightroom and don't really know how to start but I know that is a much better post processing and the next step for me to learn)

Anyway, any critique (preferably with tips for improvement) are welcomed.

 
are you using a tripod? hopefully. Seriously consider using manual focus with the camera mounted on the tripod. Then you can zoom in on the live view and make sure it's sharp. Also us the mirror lock up and the timer. That will also help with sharpness.
 
shut off all pumps. turn off all room lights. I never use auto focus. use a tri-pod or higher shutter speed. you can use a higher iso like 800 to help.
 
Thanks for the tips. I will look into getting a tripod. This may be a dumb question but I am very new to photography, what is "mirror lock up"
 
I disagree. The use of Live View with the mirror locked up is at the heart of my macro reef photography.
 
I can see how live view would help. I can also view what my camera is looking at and close the shutter from my I pad on the Nokia app with a Wi-Fi bridge thing. It would probably be good to do that since it wouldn't disturb the camera.
What type of lens mm range is good for FTS.
So you guys focus manually with the live view? Isn't it hard to see how in focus the image is on such a small screen though?
 
Mirror lock up takes a pic without the mirror moving. when you take a pic the mirror moves up so more light hits the sensor. It causes slight vibrations which can cause a slight blur in you pic. This puts the mirror up so it doesn't move during the pic which reduces the vibration and blur.
 
royy13 said:
Mirror lock up takes a pic without the mirror moving. when you take a pic the mirror moves up so more light hits the sensor. It causes slight vibrations which can cause a slight blur in you pic. This puts the mirror up so it doesn't move during the pic which reduces the vibration and blur.
Click to expand...

Thanks... Now I just need to work out how to do it.
 
If you using DSLR when you turn on Live vie by default the mirror is locked up. The mirror has to move up of the way so the images goes to the sensor, verse being reflected off the mirror into your eye viewfinder.

"Mirror slap" as they call is the worst at about 1/8th of a second. generally I go for as fast as shutter speed I can. However I have done tank shots (from a tripod) with long exposures for the coral (pumps off) and then faster exposures for the fish and merged them together.

The real benefit of live view here is you can "zoom" in. On Canon at least i can zoom in 10x on my LCD screen to really fine tune focus. I'm sure Nikon should have such a feature (alas it's probably not as good as Canons :), :) - just a fun Nikon jab :)). Seriously though, I'm sure it can be done on Nikon just fine.
 
Some pics

Some pics

Haven't been taking as many pics as usual. Busy at work and also spending more time Airbrushing. Having some fun with an artistic medium that allow total freedom. That and the Aurora has been lame, or it's been cloudy :(. Did get some good pics of the Alaska range lately but for now I present an RC body I painted for myself.







 
MichaelW said:
I can see how live view would help. I can also view what my camera is looking at and close the shutter from my I pad on the Nokia app with a Wi-Fi bridge thing. It would probably be good to do that since it wouldn't disturb the camera.
What type of lens mm range is good for FTS.
So you guys focus manually with the live view? Isn't it hard to see how in focus the image is on such a small screen though?
Click to expand...

It depends if you are shooting Full Frame or cropped sensor. A good FTS lens for cropped sensor is a 24-35 range and full frame should be roughly from 35-50. You just want to avoid going over the 70mm mark on either type of sensor. At least IME.
 
IPT said:
If you using DSLR when you turn on Live vie by default the mirror is locked up. The mirror has to move up of the way so the images goes to the sensor, verse being reflected off the mirror into your eye viewfinder.

"Mirror slap" as they call is the worst at about 1/8th of a second. generally I go for as fast as shutter speed I can. However I have done tank shots (from a tripod) with long exposures for the coral (pumps off) and then faster exposures for the fish and merged them together.

The real benefit of live view here is you can "zoom" in. On Canon at least i can zoom in 10x on my LCD screen to really fine tune focus. I'm sure Nikon should have such a feature (alas it's probably not as good as Canons :), :) - just a fun Nikon jab :)). Seriously though, I'm sure it can be done on Nikon just fine.
Click to expand...

Thank you. This is some really helpful info. I am on the hunt for a reasonable prices tripod. Really it would only be used for tank pictures so I don't need to go 2 pricey.
 
rickztahone said:
It depends if you are shooting Full Frame or cropped sensor. A good FTS lens for cropped sensor is a 24-35 range and full frame should be roughly from 35-50. You just want to avoid going over the 70mm mark on either type of sensor. At least IME.
Click to expand...

Thanks I will keep that in mind when looking at lenses.
 
rickztahone said:
It depends if you are shooting Full Frame or cropped sensor. A good FTS lens for cropped sensor is a 24-35 range and full frame should be roughly from 35-50. You just want to avoid going over the 70mm mark on either type of sensor. At least IME.
Click to expand...

I am using a Nikon on d5200 so cropped sensor. I use the 18-55 lens that came with it when taking FTS so this falls into that range.
 
MichaelW said:
I am using a Nikon on d5200 so cropped sensor. I use the 18-55 lens that came with it when taking FTS so this falls into that range.
Click to expand...

Indeed it does. Now, "kit" lenses don't really offer great Lens IQ, but you can definitely take some decent shots with it. My recommendation is to buy a cheap tripod, or get a small portable table or something that will keep the camera stable and this will allow you to get far better sharper shots. The limiting factor with these lenses is that they are "slow", or rather, the aperture iris does not open very wide. The more expensive lenses do, which allows more light to pass through the lens and on to the sensor.
 
Ok so I have the tripod and use live view to lock up the sensor and will use manual focus. My question is now about set up. How do people like to position the camera on tripod for best results. Perpendicular to tank should prevent any distortion or is this not really noticable. Setting camera high and angling the camera down might show more corals? Or just perpendicular to dead centre of tank?
 
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