Hi everyone
I have my American DJ plugged into a GFCI adapter plug
http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/TM-GFI.html
The American DJ controls several devices/pumps in my sump like my return pump, skimmer pump, powerheads, reactor pump, etc
The problem is that this often trips the GFCI so I have been running it into a plug without the GFCI adapter plug
I would love to try to figure out which device is the source of the problem so I can replace it if appropriate and run the DJ through the GFCI
The DJ will not trip the GFCI immediately - often there is a delay of several hours
I bought a voltage tester from Home Depot
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/electr...meters/klein-tools-voltage-tester-165789.html
Not sure this is the correct one to use
I also have a ground lead in the tank as well
I found this posted on RC and plan to follow this advice (see below)
Will my voltage tester work? Can someone recommend a more appropriate tester?
From a previous post:
Get a three prong extension cord.
Plug it into a nearby outlet.
Change your meter to the RED V with a squiggle over it. . The next one up from your picture's setting.
Now place one probe into the ground hole of the extension cord.
Place the other probe into the widest remaining prong slot. You should see some very low reading. Perhaps a volt or three. This is the Neutral. This is just making sure your ground is really a ground.
Now move the probe from the wide slot to the the narrow one.
You should now see something around 120V. This is the HOT.
If these last two things happened as I stated then your outlet that the extension cord is plugged into is in all likelihood correctly wired.
Now to test your tank. Before going further you need your Ground test lead to be reliable or you can make bad errors. Like thinking something that is fatally live, is not. So you should grab some masking tape or electrical tape, (not scotch or duct), and tape the probe snugly into the ground hole on the extension cord. Once this is done you should be able to wiggle the test lead a bit and not have the ground probe connection interrupted.
When done taping, again test the ground by probing the Hot again.
If that reads correctly you're set to go.
Using the free probe touch it to your tank water - read the meter.
you will likely see something like 60V or possibly even 120V. If so you have a PROBLEM.
Leave that probe in contact with the water, you can tape it somehow, (here you could use duct tape on the probe handle).
Now while checking the meter start unplugging things one at a time.
Do this until the reading plunges to very close to zero. The last thing that you unplugged was the culprit. Once you think you have the culprit always take the probe back to the hot slot in the extension cord and prove nothing has changed to cause the meter to stop working, like the ground probe has come out of contact, or a test lead has failed. Once you've re-proven the test setup you can be confident that you really found the problem.
Remove the problem completely from your aquarium setup and if it has exposed metal like a light fixture you can re-power it and then touch the probe directly to it while it's isolated from the system. This will confirm your prior test.
If it IS a fixture. Unplug it again and then examine it. You may find a frayed wire or cracked insulation, or a large salt buildup somewhere. If it is a cracked or frayed cord inspect for other age issues. Are the lamp prongs all corroded? If so you should replace all that, or pitch the entire fixture. If it's just the cord DO NOT try to repair the cord. It's a fools errand! Replace it with a new cord.
If it is a non metallic device like a heater cut the cord off of it as close to the heater body as possible so some fool doesn't try to resurrect it. Heave it in the trash and acquire a new one.
If it's something else let us know and we can help you make a determination.
I must stress that hunting for a problem like this is not without hazard. People have died while trying to find issues like this.
Be very conscious of what you are trying to do from moment to moment. Do not touch anything that might be conductive while hunting this problem. Even a salty cord could result in injury. Commonly a high resistance fault that smarts badly can be upgraded to a fatal low resistance fault because you wiggled the wrong thing or somehow increased the contact area. Don't get all entangled under the tank or bent over a sump, or rest your hand on a piece of metal or a pump while doing this troubleshooting. Approach the problem like everything is live, and out to get you, and you will be safe.
I have my American DJ plugged into a GFCI adapter plug
http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/TM-GFI.html
The American DJ controls several devices/pumps in my sump like my return pump, skimmer pump, powerheads, reactor pump, etc
The problem is that this often trips the GFCI so I have been running it into a plug without the GFCI adapter plug
I would love to try to figure out which device is the source of the problem so I can replace it if appropriate and run the DJ through the GFCI
The DJ will not trip the GFCI immediately - often there is a delay of several hours
I bought a voltage tester from Home Depot
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/electr...meters/klein-tools-voltage-tester-165789.html
Not sure this is the correct one to use
I also have a ground lead in the tank as well
I found this posted on RC and plan to follow this advice (see below)
Will my voltage tester work? Can someone recommend a more appropriate tester?
From a previous post:
Get a three prong extension cord.
Plug it into a nearby outlet.
Change your meter to the RED V with a squiggle over it. . The next one up from your picture's setting.
Now place one probe into the ground hole of the extension cord.
Place the other probe into the widest remaining prong slot. You should see some very low reading. Perhaps a volt or three. This is the Neutral. This is just making sure your ground is really a ground.
Now move the probe from the wide slot to the the narrow one.
You should now see something around 120V. This is the HOT.
If these last two things happened as I stated then your outlet that the extension cord is plugged into is in all likelihood correctly wired.
Now to test your tank. Before going further you need your Ground test lead to be reliable or you can make bad errors. Like thinking something that is fatally live, is not. So you should grab some masking tape or electrical tape, (not scotch or duct), and tape the probe snugly into the ground hole on the extension cord. Once this is done you should be able to wiggle the test lead a bit and not have the ground probe connection interrupted.
When done taping, again test the ground by probing the Hot again.
If that reads correctly you're set to go.
Using the free probe touch it to your tank water - read the meter.
you will likely see something like 60V or possibly even 120V. If so you have a PROBLEM.
Leave that probe in contact with the water, you can tape it somehow, (here you could use duct tape on the probe handle).
Now while checking the meter start unplugging things one at a time.
Do this until the reading plunges to very close to zero. The last thing that you unplugged was the culprit. Once you think you have the culprit always take the probe back to the hot slot in the extension cord and prove nothing has changed to cause the meter to stop working, like the ground probe has come out of contact, or a test lead has failed. Once you've re-proven the test setup you can be confident that you really found the problem.
Remove the problem completely from your aquarium setup and if it has exposed metal like a light fixture you can re-power it and then touch the probe directly to it while it's isolated from the system. This will confirm your prior test.
If it IS a fixture. Unplug it again and then examine it. You may find a frayed wire or cracked insulation, or a large salt buildup somewhere. If it is a cracked or frayed cord inspect for other age issues. Are the lamp prongs all corroded? If so you should replace all that, or pitch the entire fixture. If it's just the cord DO NOT try to repair the cord. It's a fools errand! Replace it with a new cord.
If it is a non metallic device like a heater cut the cord off of it as close to the heater body as possible so some fool doesn't try to resurrect it. Heave it in the trash and acquire a new one.
If it's something else let us know and we can help you make a determination.
I must stress that hunting for a problem like this is not without hazard. People have died while trying to find issues like this.
Be very conscious of what you are trying to do from moment to moment. Do not touch anything that might be conductive while hunting this problem. Even a salty cord could result in injury. Commonly a high resistance fault that smarts badly can be upgraded to a fatal low resistance fault because you wiggled the wrong thing or somehow increased the contact area. Don't get all entangled under the tank or bent over a sump, or rest your hand on a piece of metal or a pump while doing this troubleshooting. Approach the problem like everything is live, and out to get you, and you will be safe.
