Help with new 125 gallon build

[tassod]

Did a leak test this morning on the sump baffles, and it went well for the most part, i just had one leak on the bottom part of the last baffle of the bubble trap. I resealled it and it should be good to go. All the others held up good. Posting a video link of the test, hope this works.

http://s1273.beta.photobucket.com/user/tassod/media/P1000262_zps4b7c1b42.mp4.html

 

[SimonSKL]

Thanks Simon, How is the BH1450 pump? Still happy with it? Going to start getting ready to order the rest of my stuff that i need to get everything going and thinking of going with this return pump.

Yes, I am extremely happy with my BH1450. It is extremely quiet even at the highest setting. At medium setting I have to put my hand on it to know it is still running. I have been running this pump since March last year and it never runs hot. The small foot print was a plus for me and the cost is quite reasonable. It draws about 100 watts at the highest setting.

 

[tassod]

One thing i recommend to people considering starting a build would be to DIY your own stand for your tank. Having nothing but problems with my current stand and how I want to configure my build.

First issue i'm having now is lack of space with my stand to accomodate any kind of external pump for my return. As you can see in this pic, i have less then 5" between the sump and my stand.

I am forced to now turn my sump around the other way and go through my wall to relocate the return pump then I will have to come back to the other side to the sump with the 1" PVC to get back to my return.

One other issue I am having is with the bulkheads for the main DT. When i put one of the bulkheads through to secure it, it will not go straight through because it is obstructed by one of the wood braces of my stand...:angryfire:
Now i am forced to chisel out this part in order to get the bulkhead to fit through properly. I wonder what else i am going to encounter..:worried: Well I guess this is part of the fun with starting a build if I were to look at the bright side of it!

 

[saleenpwr88]

Couldn't you just set your pump on either side of your tank, where you have the room, and just run the plumbing to it with a couple of elbows? I would think the ~5" you have would be plenty for 1" PVC.

And yes, this is all part of the fun HAHA!

 

[tassod]

Couldn't you just set your pump on either side of your tank, where you have the room, and just run the plumbing to it with a couple of elbows? I would think the ~5" you have would be plenty for 1" PVC.

And yes, this is all part of the fun HAHA!

Once I have the pump I will check but I don't think the cabinet doors would be able to close with the PVC coming out of the bulkhead and making a 90

 

[SimonSKL]

There are a couple ways you can reduce the space needed for the PVC coming out of the bulkhead and make a 90 degree turn. I think you can do it in 4" space or less.

One is to turn the bulk head around with the treaded end inside the tank but make sure the gasket in on the wet side. The other is to use an elbow like this that one end can be inserted straight into the bulkhead. If you do both, you only need about 2.5" space to turn a 90 degree assuming without any shut off valve after the elbow. Even with an inline shut off valve, it still needs less than 5".

 

[tassod]

There are a couple ways you can reduce the space needed for the PVC coming out of the bulkhead and make a 90 degree turn. I think you can do it in 4" space or less.

One is to turn the bulk head around with the treaded end inside the tank but make sure the gasket in on the wet side. The other is to use an elbow like this that one end can be inserted straight into the bulkhead. If you do both, you only need about 2.5" space to turn a 90 degree assuming without any shut off valve after the elbow. Even with an inline shut off valve, it still needs less than 5".

Simon, I will definitely try this out and I think it will work. I thought about turning the bulkhead around but wasn't sure if I could do that and that it would be water tight. But if the gasket still sits on the wet side, then it makes sense that it should be fine. By the way, I was going to ask you where you got all your fittings from like the PVC gate valves and such..

 

[SimonSKL]

I bought all the common PVC fittings from Menards but for the 1" gate valves I have to order from BRS.

 

[SimonSKL]

Simon, I will definitely try this out and I think it will work. I thought about turning the bulkhead around but wasn't sure if I could do that and that it would be water tight. But if the gasket still sits on the wet side, then it makes sense that it should be fine. By the way, I was going to ask you where you got all your fittings from like the PVC gate valves and such..

The preferred way of installing the bulkhead is to have the flange compressed on the gasket by tightening the nut. What I am suggesting is not the preferred way as you will be compressing the gasket with a turning nut. If you overtighten it may deform the gasket. So you need to be careful when tightening the nut to keep the gasket from turning or getting deformed. Properly done, it will still be leak proof.

 

[tassod]

The preferred way of installing the bulkhead is to have the flange compressed on the gasket by tightening the nut. What I am suggesting is not the preferred way as you will be compressing the gasket with a turning nut. If you overtighten it may deform the gasket. So you need to be careful when tightening the nut to keep the gasket from turning or getting deformed. Properly done, it will still be leak proof.

Ok will do, I'll pay close attention to this.

 

[tassod]

How much Live Rock (going to order dry from BRS) would I need for a 125 gallon system?

 

[tassod]

The preferred way of installing the bulkhead is to have the flange compressed on the gasket by tightening the nut. What I am suggesting is not the preferred way as you will be compressing the gasket with a turning nut. If you overtighten it may deform the gasket. So you need to be careful when tightening the nut to keep the gasket from turning or getting deformed. Properly done, it will still be leak proof.

After picking up 1" 90 street elbow, it seems that it will work out fine without having to turn the bulkhead inside out. I'm waiting on the pump and other fittings to come in so I will have a more complete picture when those come into play but looks ok so far. Thanks Simon for the suggestion. :rollface:

 

[tassod]

Got my return pump late last night, using Reeflow BH1450. Looks like it will be a tight fit but it should work out, worst case I will relocate the pump further down on the side where there is more room.

 

[tassod]

Corner flow

Corner flow

Can anyone tell me if these drains look ok? I put together a durso drain and wondering if the water intake is too low in the overflow.

Left corner flow

Right corner flow

 

[tassod]

Bump,
Does anyone see a problem with this plumbing of the overflows? The sizes again are:
Left corner: 1.5" durso drain air assisted along with 1" return to a 3/4" locline
Right corner 1.5" drain full siphon controlled by a gate valve along with a 1" backup drain going straight to the sump.

 

[tassod]

Plumbing - Please critique

Plumbing - Please critique

Ok, haven't been getting much response lately so I'm hoping someone can chime in to critique my plumbing setup. I have dry fitted everything so nothing is glued. Here is what i've done so far:

Return from sump with BH1450 return pump

View of plumbing through bottom of tank

Going to be running carbon and GFO reactors and eventually a calcium reactor as well. I ran out of PVC Tee's so I don't have the last one plumbed in for the calcium reactor but I will add it in this line.

I modified the right corner flow full siphon drain:

I also want to add a UV sterilizer but not quite sure yet were to add this. I didnt' have time to plumb the left drain but I will be running that to the fuge area. Please critique and let me know your thoughts. Thanks.

Simon, hope you don't mind me using your build as a reference.

 

[SimonSKL]

tassod, everything looks good. Because of the low ceiling within your sump, it will be tricky connecting your GFO and carbon reactors to the gate valves without some 90 degree elbows. Because the flow thru the GFO and carbon reactors is much lower I used 3/4" PVC and gate valves. There is nothing wrong with what you are doing as your 1" gate valve can certainly control the flow just the same.

I added my UV light after my plumbing was done so I just run the output straight into the sump. Ideally you want the UV output to go straight to the DT. A tee connector in the return line may not be good as the UV output may impede the main flow to the DT. A Y connector may be better.

 

[tassod]

Because of the low ceiling within your sump, it will be tricky connecting your GFO and carbon reactors to the gate valves without some 90 degree elbows. Because the flow thru the GFO and carbon reactors is much lower I used 3/4" PVC and gate valves.

I was thinking about this also when i was putting this together. Do you think it will be an issue if there is a bend as much as 90 degrees in the tubing from the reactor to the gate valve? I was planning on using 1" X either 3/4" or 1/2" inserts adapter from the gate valves to the reactors.

 

[SimonSKL]

Every time you use an elbow the efficiency of flow decreases but since the needed flow to the reactors does not need to be high so this will not be an issue. You do need to step down to 3/4" tubing in order to connect to the reactors.

 

[tassod]

You do need to step down to 3/4" tubing in order to connect to the reactors.

Simon, the Phosban 550 reactors that I have come with 1/2" ID tubing connectors. I'm a little confused on how to hook these up. The water out obviously goes to the return valves but where in your setup do you have the water inlets connected to? Do your 3/4" gate valves reduce to 1/2" to connect to the reactors? Do you have any closeups pics of your reactors you can post to see?