Help with new 125 gallon build

The rounded corner is to accommodate the caulk in that corner. In a glass tank, the silicone used to caulk the corner will require the baffle corner to be rounded so the bottom edge can touch the bottom pane. I am not sure in your acrylic tank how the corner was done. In the picture it looks like the corner is rounded by caulk. May be you should call the company and ask them if the rounded corner should be up or down. If there is a gap, you may have to use the gap filling cement to fill it. You can also shave some acrylic off an unused piece and put the shavings in the corner and let the solvent dissolve them as filler.
 
The caulk that you see in the picture is actually under the tank to hold the black trim around it, there is not caulk inside. I called them and they said it didn't matter which side I used for top or bottom, just to use the side that would fit the best.

I did order the thickened weld on cement as well from the place so i could use that also for the gaps. Do you think its better with the rounded edges on the bottom?
 
I think the key thing is a perfect fit of the bottom edge of the baffle to the bottom pane of the tank. You don't want a gap there. Whichever end you use doesn't matter. A perfect fit means when you run the acrylic solvent between the joint, the solvent dissolve the acrylic from the joint and form a clear bubbless joint.
 
I got all the baffles glued or welded I should say. Couple of things though, one the bottom of the tank just does not perfectly meet the bottom of the baffle to form a perfect joint no matter which side I use. When you get to the ends, there is a gap as the previous picture shows. Even with the tube of "thickened" cement which really is still liquidy to me, I'm not confident its water tight. So after everything dried i ran a bead of silicone accross all the bottoms of the baffles and with my finger pushed into the joints. I didn't do this for support as the cement has done a good job of that, just doing it to be water tight. As for the sides, I would say the joints ended up pretty good and solid.

One thing is the positioning of the baffles on the skimmer side is different from the fuge side and this is because the last baffle i put into place would not fit snug against the tank because the other baffle pushed the walls out. So on the skimmer side the configuration is "under, over, under" and on the fuge side it is the opposite. I'm hoping thats ok and i dont see what it wouldn't be.
 
Tank back online!

Tank back online!

I'm happy to say that my tank is back online now. here are some pics.

IMG_0116_zps136ecc1b.jpg


IMG_0117_zpsd45b9c9f.jpg
 
Thanks Simon, I have to admit last Sunday when this happened I was a little panicked on what to do but panecking does not accomplish anything. I'm hoping I don't have to deal with anything like this for a long time.

I have a few questions. For my UV sterilizer, now that I have an extra gate valve i can tap into on my manifold, can i send the output of the UV to that valve instead of the sump?

I don't see any leaks anywhere now that my sump is functioning again, but why do I see a bit of salt creep on the rim of black bracing of the sump just below the bulkhead? That is worrying me a bit...
 
tassod said:
Thanks Simon, I have to admit last Sunday when this happened I was a little panicked on what to do but panecking does not accomplish anything. I'm hoping I don't have to deal with anything like this for a long time.

I have a few questions. For my UV sterilizer, now that I have an extra gate valve i can tap into on my manifold, can i send the output of the UV to that valve instead of the sump?

I don't see any leaks anywhere now that my sump is functioning again, but why do I see a bit of salt creep on the rim of black bracing of the sump just below the bulkhead? That is worrying me a bit...
Click to expand...

Tasso, I don't know about feeding the output of the UV back to the return line as the water entering the line at the tee will become a dam to stop or hinder the main flow of the return line. Unless the water is entering at an angle and not perpendicular to the return flow.
 
SimonSKL said:
Tasso, I don't know about feeding the output of the UV back to the return line as the water entering the line at the tee will become a dam to stop or hinder the main flow of the return line. Unless the water is entering at an angle and not perpendicular to the return flow.
Click to expand...

Yes actually this is how I was thinking of connecting it, with a 90 adapter:

IMG_0119_zps47cbbf92.jpg
 
I see what your saying, I'll just output it to the sump then. Would have needed some kind of Y connection on the return to make it work.
 
Simon, how wide open is your valve feeding the UV sterilizer? Got that hooked up today and want to know what would be proper to set that at. I initially opened fully and that certainly caused a big fluctuation in flow as my return started filling quickly in the sump. I turned it down now to where the flow was the same as before when it was off, is that ok?
 
I think my flow thru the UV sterilizer is about 300gph (just a guess). Just a steady flow thru the UV is good enough. If you have it wide open, almost all of the flow will be back in your sump and not up to your DT. Remember you rather have slow flow thru you UV than high flow. BTW what wattage is your UV?
 
You have to wait till both ammonia and nitrite to be zero to be sure the cycle has been completed. I really don't think one week is long enough for ammonia to drop to zero. I would repeat another test tomorrow. What is your nitrate? I guess it is zero.
 
It's actually been two weeks since I started the cycle unless the last 6 days don't count with my sump going down . Nitrate is around 20
 
So your nitrite and nitrate are up and ammonia is coming down. This is good. Now you just wait for nitrite to come down to zero.
 
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