help with porcupine puffer!!!!!!!!!!

Boxy

New member
i have a large porcupine puffer. about 7-8 inches. he is housed with a 6-7 inch blue hippo tang, 2 percula clowns, anenome, green chromis, 2 bar gobys, mandrain, 2 smaLL 2-3 inch porcupine puffers, niger trigger, fiji foxface, copperbanded butterfly, long nose butterfly, black blenny, he gets along fine with all of the fish, including the other puffers. i was getting some ich just out of the blue. i hadnt added any fish and just started getting it. i wasnt treating i t because it would come and go. i bought the blue hippo off craigslist and when i was buying him the guy said he had some frayed fins and weird brown spots on him from stress like four months ago. i decided id treat for ich using kordon ich attack and i treated at 150% 18 tsp for a 120 gallon reef tank. ever since i started treating with it puff, the large puffer wont eat and keeps tucking himself up in the rocks. he appeared to be sleeping. he does this once in awhile. now he hasnt eaten today or yesterday at all. its extremely weird for him. hes usually a pig. i noticed just now that he has a weird faded spot on his back. its kind of yellowish and it appears as if the colored skin is coming off. it doesnt look like it doesnt have skin there but as if the pigment wore off. i tried to get some pictures.

i also changed the rocks right before i started treating and did a water change. i moved the powerheads to the back of the tank. i think that might have upset him because he looped around them alll day.

phosphate has been high but has been going down and hasnt seemed to bother him. my salt level is at 24.

any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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first of all, your bio load is way too high for a 120g. how are your water parameters?

second, ich attack does nothing for ich. the only three proven methods to eliminate ich are hyposalinity, copper, and tank transfer, none of which can be done in the DT. you will need to remove all of the fish into a QT for treatment and leave the DT fallow for 10 weeks. Please read the ich stickies on this forum.

third, you will have to be very careful using drugs. who gave you the advice of dosage at 150% of the recommended dosage? you've overdosed the tank and the fish are responding to it. Please do a large water change (50%) and put carbon in the sump to remove the rest of the medicine.
 
Way to many red flags here.

As stated, way to many fish, not to mention the selection, bar gobies with puffers?
Overdosing as stated.
 
I certainly agree with the posts above. You're getting lousy advice and need to start researching what you're doing before doing it. Ich is certainly going to thin your fish population; I'm surprised the Copperband is still alive----they need pristine water and quiet tankmates. After you read the stickies; let us know what treatment method you'll use and we'll help all we can. Given all the instability in your tank (new rock, sick fish, overdosing a product that doesn't work, etc) , I sure don't see any way you can do anything without a large quarantine tank. The large water change is sure the first place to start.
 
Just a couple days ago he posted about getting a puffer for his 125.

I have a feeling we do not know even a small amount of what this tank has had going on.
 
it a 120 reef ive had it for over a year it has a 30 gallon refugium. water is good except phosphate has been on the high side, around3.0 it has dropped to about 1.5. i have had good results with the ich treatment before. evreything else is where it should be. i didnt add or change the rocks i just moved them around. all the other fish are doing fine with the treatment and are eating well.
 
i dont have a phone number?

I see you edited the post removing your phone number.

1-260-xxx-xxxx


Not sure why you want to turn it around on me by acting like you never posted it.

Again, we would be happy to help, if you would like to share some details.

But to start off,

You have many incompatible fish in your tank.
It is also overstocked.
You list an anemone which if not already will soon be dead due to water quality, likely a lack of lights, and by treating the tank.

You state that you removed the rocks, are you talking about live rock? If so, what else do you have to provide biological filtration?

Does the tank have a sump? Skimmer? Canister Filters?

Are you using carbon?

How long has the tank been set up?

What are your nitrates?
Ammonia?
 
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it a 120 reef ive had it for over a year it has a 30 gallon refugium. water is good except phosphate has been on the high side, around3.0 it has dropped to about 1.5. i have had good results with the ich treatment before. evreything else is where it should be. i didnt add or change the rocks i just moved them around. all the other fish are doing fine with the treatment and are eating well.

Its a reef?

With 3 puffers, a trigger and 3.0 phosphates?

Again, we are trying to help.

You have way to many fish in the tank. If it is a reef, it needs a lot of work, strating with removing most of those fish.

Lots of water changes may help, but with those fish you will never get managable phosphates, and with high phosphatesd, you will never be able to keep any coral.
 
phosphate had dropped to 1.5. i didnt have any problems with phosphate until i did the water change. the puffers and the trigger dont touch anything not coral nor fish. i know i have too many fish and i will be upgrading to a 220 hopefully in the next 3 weeks. my coral is actually doing really well and so is my anemone. i have 250watt metal halides. i have had the anemone with this lighting for about three years and he has been in this tank for 1 with this lighting.
 
tank pics

tank pics

heres some pics of the anemone and coral and the whole tank
 

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it says tou can double the amount of dosage. ich seems to be dissaperaing

Read the stickies. Ich temporarily disappearing and then coming back X100 is very common. The product you're using is nothing but an herbal extract that has never been shown to be effective.There is nothing known to the hobby that will kill ich and not kill all your corals, anemone, and other inverts.
 
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