help with pump

[djlmedic]

I have a rio 2500 pump. I would like to use this to run my uv sterilizer. Problem is my wet dry is enclosed and won't flow water fast enough to run the uv sterilizer also. So I want to plumb the rio pump to run the sterilizer. I won't have the pump submerged but it will be drawing water straight from the tank and returning straight to the tank. Is this a problem not being submerged? I will use a 1" draw with a 3/4" return.
Thanks

 

[lifesworksataol]

my rio2500 has a cage around the inlet side - so i dont see how you could use it external - also isnt a rio 2500 to much gph for a uv sterilizer?

 

[djlmedic]

The cage snaps off so you can change and clean the impeller. my sterilizer is rated for 760 gph. I tried it though and it wont suck water, it has to be submerged.

 

[lifesworksataol]

nice thanks for the info too - i have never taken it apart before - guess ill do that :-D

 

[skinnyjoe1976]

as you found out the rio's are not designed to run external but mag drive pumps are. and what size is the uv? that seems to be high gph. the slower the water runs through it the higher the kill rate. and are you doing sps corals. if so i have luck running the uv on a timer for 8 hours due to the uv killing some good stuff the some corals require. look into getting a mag pump and running it external. drill the sump and install a bulkhead or run a up and over drain to the pump and then run through the uv back to the tank. good luck

 

[jsl6v8]

You know really the less flow going through the UV the better its kill off is. You might be better off with a slower flow. If anything upgrade your return pump, and plumb your UV into the return line. Just my opinion, honestly I don't like UVs anyway.

 

[djlmedic]

I was going to put a valve inline and drop the gph to around 450. I can't drill the sump. I have a rapids pro ps4 with the auto top off. I was messing around with the pump and I have a u-tube from a canister filter that will sit next to the pump inside the tank and just run it throught that to the uv and back to tank. I have a Lifegard 25 w. I don't like them either but if you have loss about $400 worth of fish due to a parasite in 3 weeks anything is worth a try.

 

[skinnyjoe1976]

don't assume that the uv will fix the parasite probelms. first off check where you are getting your fish and second what kind of parasites do they have? if it is ick than the uv won't cure to problem. list the fish that you have and water specs and what kind of parasites they have and lets see if we can help with your problem

 

[djlmedic]

I know where I got the parasite, it is ick. I got a naso tang a couple weeks ago. I quarantined him for 7 days in copper. He was doing great and when I put him in the main tank he was ok for 1 or 2 days and started to get ick. Unfortunately I work 24 hr shifts and by the time I got home to get him out and quarantine again he was covered along with some fish that has been in the tank for quite awhile were starting to get it also. Since I have lost about 8 fish. I've even pulled the sick fish out and quarantined along with antibiotics for a secondary infection but still lost them. As of current all the fish left look pretty good. I put the uv in to take care of bacteria and some parasites free floating. I hope I am done with it. I've been feeding with garlic and metrodinazol. The fish I have left are an Anthia, occelaris, damsels, chromis, eight line wrasse, and a tomatoe clown. My water parameters are near to perfect. Salinity 0.25, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrates 2, ph 8.2, calcium 450. Thats all the test I have. Did a 20 gallon water change last Thursday.
Thanks

 

[AquaKnight]

I lost over $500 of fish to Ich. I am done playing around with Ich. This might be bad news, but Ich will continue to repopulate itself as long as you have fish in there. You need to remove the current fish, QT them, then let the tank remain fish free for a minimum of 6 weeks.

A UV will help with Ich, but we're talking about a fraction of a percentage.

 

[skinnyjoe1976]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11215262#post11215262 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AquaKnight407
I lost over $500 of fish to Ich. I am done playing around with Ich. This might be bad news, but Ich will continue to repopulate itself as long as you have fish in there. You need to remove the current fish, QT them, then let the tank remain fish free for a minimum of 6 weeks.

A UV will help with Ich, but we're talking about a fraction of a percentage.

well put thats what i was getting to. that's what most people go through and like aqua said you will never truly get rid of the ick. water parameters are very good. any corlas or rock in the tank? i noticed you said a 8 line so that's why i'm asking

 

[djlmedic]

I have quite a bit of coral and about 135lbs rock. The fish in there now seem to be doing good. They don't have any ich signs for about a week. Most of the fish I lost were tangs and angels which aren't hardy anyways. Like I said I mostly have just damsels, clowns and chromis. The 8 line has been ich free since the out break.

 

[AquaKnight]

If you are happy with those fish, so be it, but just know what road you're headed down in the future when you want some more fish. There are only so many ways to actually kill Ich, treating one fish at a time in QT for 7 days isn't it.

 

[jsl6v8]

to have any real effect on ick with a UV you need to be running near the minimum flow rate on the sterilizer and having a overpowered UV would be a big plus, but like they said ick is there and there isn't much we can do to get rid of it completely.

 

[dugg]

Go to this link and give it a read. This is the best treatment (the only one in my book) for ich. Your display has to sit for 6 weeks with no fish in it to stop the life cycle of the ich before it will ever go away. Those fish in your display now will soon be covered again, only worse next time, when the eggs of the last batch start to hatch out. A real good UV might kill 1% of it if you are lucky. You have to break the life cycle to get rid of it.

http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/hyposalinity.html